Hoping for some coaching on lowering the FJ (now Tom's build thread apparently) (1 Viewer)

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I had to step away from where the FJ is so I won’t know until tomorrow, but I believe the rivets are in place still on the shock mount. I will have to double check and the body fitment didn’t look off to me but what the heck do I know? Answer-not much
 
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How does this body to rear frame look?
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Tell us anything about body location on the frame?

Thanks!
 
Looks like the body/fenders have to go forward to clear the shock mounts, or the shock mounts need to go rearward to clear the body/fenders. ??
 
Right-I’m just not sure if it’s the body that needs to move or the shock mounts.

What’s really odd is I thought I saw them riveted in place although I may be confusing those with something on the rear suspension. I don’t see how the body could move forward without messing up it’s alignment on the frame. Both the nose of the rig and the tail are right at the edge of the frame.

My money is on the mounds having been moved.
 
Right-I’m just not sure if it’s the body that needs to move or the shock mounts.

What’s really odd is I thought I saw them riveted in place although I may be confusing those with something on the rear suspension. I don’t see how the body could move forward without messing up it’s alignment on the frame. Both the nose of the rig and the tail are right at the edge of the frame.

My money is on the mounds having been moved.

Maybe - or something has been done to bridge what would otherwise be a big gap between the tub and front clip.

It is very possible the shock mounts may have been move to compensate for the change in suspension geometry or axle location that’s sure to occur when you add crazy long spring hangers. The shackle reversal up front could have contributed too.

Next time you’re by the truck - look on the frame for the original bolt holes (threaded) where the fenders would have mounted. Look for the (non-threaded) holes where the riveted shock tower used to be - they should be right next to each other. See how everything lines up in relation to the holes in the frame.

The other possibility is that you have a mismatched frame and body (different years) but I don’t think they varied that drastically...
 
Will do - likely early tomorrow AM.

Hope everyone is enjoying the puzzle - ha.
 
These body mounts looks like they are in the right place relative to how the body is mounted. In other words - the rear of the body appears to be on the frame in the right place.

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The front of the rig looks to have been off - new bolts that don’t match anything else.

Thinking that the front fenders might be from another truck?

Is there a variance across the years in the distance from fender mounting bolts I am pointing at to the opening for the shock tower?


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Something is awry here...

That shock tower should go right through that slot in the fender on both sides of the truck:





It’s almost like everything has been mounted too far forward on the frame.

I’m starting to actually think your engine is positioned ok. It may be how the body is mounted that’s way off...

Do me a favor - measure from the center “rib” of a shock tower to the front of the frame-welded portion of the engine mount. If everything is where it should be from a “traditional” V8 conversion sense - it should be almost exactly 11 inches from the center rib on the shock tower to the engine mount.

Not all conversions are done this way and I’m not sure how the A/T would affect this, but that’s the recommended distance from the conversion guys (Advance Adapters, Downey, etc)

The distance from the front of the engine mount to the center rib is 10.5 inches.

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Shock mounts are likely fine. The top of shock bracket normally sits inside of the fender. Since the inner fender is at a angle, and has been lifted straight up by 3" it now hits the shock nut. I have a 2" body lift and found it to be not too hard to hide it. But 3" is tough to hide. I would lower it to 2". Use a long single piece of 2X2 steel across the rear under the sill rather than individual lift blocks. For suspension install all new bushings, stock length shackles up front, then do some old man emu 2.5" lift springs out back with stock length shackles. Old man emu 2.5" lift shocks. U will have to relocate the motor. Can't tell what's up with the grill. Pics are too close. Need to see overall grill pics.
 
Shock mounts are likely fine. The top of shock bracket normally sits inside of the fender. Since the inner fender is at a angle, and has been lifted straight up by 3" it now hits the shock nut. I have a 2" body lift and found it to be not too hard to hide it. But 3" is tough to hide. I would lower it to 2". Use a long single piece of 2X2 steel across the rear under the sill rather than individual lift blocks. For suspension install all new bushings, stock length shackles up front, then do some old man emu 2.5" lift springs out back with stock length shackles. Old man emu 2.5" lift shocks. U will have to relocate the motor. Can't tell what's up with the grill. Pics are too close. Need to see overall grill pics.

Good morning and thanks for the reply. Let me paraphrase to make sure I understand: the body to frame fit it may be fine but the 3 inch lift is throwing the fender and shock tower alignment out of whack and once it’s lowered the angle of the fender should allow it to clear like it was originally designed to. Is that right?

Do I get any points for a run on sentence? I clearly need more coffee.
 
Yeah I think @White Stripe may have it... everything looks like it’s in the right place so once the body comes down it may correct itself.
 
Good morning and thanks for the reply. Let me paraphrase to make sure I understand: the body to frame fit it may be fine but the 3 inch lift is throwing the fender and shock tower alignment out of whack and once it’s lowered the angle of the fender should allow it to clear like it was originally designed to. Is that right?

Do I get any points for a run on sentence? I clearly need more coffee.
Well looking at some of your pics again, it might be the front clip(hood/grill/fenders) may need to be aligned too. As in loosened and brought forward and then tightened down. Also your grill should not be tilted back, so that could be it's just needing an alignment of all the front clip pieces to bring it straight, or its been bent from a impact with something.
 
I'd tear that rig down to the bare frame.


And start all over again.
 
touch base with the local state club in your area (see clubhouse) link at top of this page. I'm sure there are some local folks with modified 40's that you could check out in person, take detailed pics and compare notes with in person. Might save you a lot of time and frustration. Just my thought.
 
Drink heavily.
 
your engine is in a good place front to back, even up and down. If it turns out you need to raise it, it's easier to cut 1/2" thick 3 1/2 x 31/2 shims and tack them to the top of the mount. then all you need is a longer bolt. Don't mess with the shackle reversal or you'll need to redo the power steering. The S/R allows the box to be mounted lower. It's a 1 1/2" lift in itself which is why the previous owner put tall shackles in back. Two inch springs with a shorter shackle should ride close to level. Ditch the Jeep drop pitman in favor of the straight version that comes in most Advance adapter kits. The drop is too short eye to eye to get full lock, right to left. the straight is an inch or so longer.
This truck was built to crawl, hence the doubler. If it was in the budget a split case with a 4:1 gearset would give you a similar crawl ratio and cut 7 or 8" off the drivetrain length. If you aren't going to run this on hardcore trails you may be better eliminating the doubler to get a better driveshaft
environment. I've always been concerned with stacking a doubler in front of a 40 case. The 60 case is a much stronger option for
pushing that kind of torque.....lastly..ditch the household wirenuts :)
 

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