Hoping for some coaching on lowering the FJ (now Tom's build thread apparently) (2 Viewers)

[tdskip]

Going through a steep learning curve here, which is kind of fun actually, especially with how darn help you guys are.

The ‘68 is too lifted for my preference and I’d like to lower it back down to closer to, by above, stock height.

Right now I have both a body lift kit and lifting springs (I believe).

Looks to me like I’ll need to rework the engine and transmission mounts unless I want to further cut the interior metal.

So - with all that said and the pictures - would you lower the body and leave the springs as-is? OR leave body and lower springs?

Thanks in advance for being patient with me if I am being even more of a dope than usual and missing anything obvious.

 

[tdskip]

More pictures

 

[bhsdriller]

idk but all of that just looks sketchy to me lol

Good idea in removing it

 

[workingdog]

My 2 cents (with all of that).
Remove all the body lift - it's more than sketchy
And replace that horrendous shackle with something the right height. All that will help a lot. And my bet is you'll be happy.

Post pictures of motor and tranny mounts.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks for the thoughts.

By body lift I assume you are referring to the large bushings between frame and body and the front block of metal that the front is resting on.

When I do that the engine and transmission will effectively rise in the body, don't think I currently have enough room for that currently.

Transmission amount picture below.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Let's see the engine bay - it looks like you're 350/Automatic Transmission converted. I agree, looking at how the drive line is currently oriented, you'll need to rethink your engine and transmission mounts in order to get the body back down. With Automatic transmission being so long, you might want to move the engine forward in the bay. This will help get the bellhousing out of the way a bit and maybe prevent you from needing to move the mounts TOO low. When thinking about engine placement, keep in mind the oil pan vs. your front differential, as that is often a tight spot.

 

[workingdog]

Yes, the transmission looks pretty high. Send shots of motor mounts and where the motor is fore and aft as suggested by RWBeringer4x4.

 

[tdskip]

More pictures - will get pictures of the engine mounts later today.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Alright, the V8 is lower and farther forward than I was expecting - but if you have room to go forward with it, you will benefit with bellhousing clearance. Camera angle is a bit tough to see here - how far is the back of your passenger side valve cover from the firewall? You may also be able to angle the driveline downward toward the rear a bit - most V8's and intake manifolds are designed to want about a 4-degree rearward tilt.

This will offer the added benefit of a longer rear driveshaft, less likely to vibrate, less extreme driveshaft angles, etc. That said, if you move the engine and transmission mounts, you'll need to modify driveshaft lengths, exhaust pipe, etc. to accomodate the move. I just went through this on my own 40 (albeit with a stock Toyota Manual Trans). I think there's a couple guys on here who have done automatic conversions who might be able to provide a more "apples to apples" comparison with their own trucks.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

More pictures - will get pictures of the engine mounts later today.

View attachment 1978777View attachment 1978779

Yeah this is pretty sketch! Might be the camera but your tie-rod looks bent (and possibly welded together) as well.

More information on what you're working with from a transmission/transfercase/axle perspective will help.

Cutting off the "custom" shackle hangers and going back to something more stock will definitely help - but you'll need to take the saginaw conversion into account here. Some folks mount the saginaw box so close to the frame rail they have to get creative for shackle clearance. That box seems pretty far forward on the rail - which means there may be a spud-shaft passing through the frame. It also looks like a 3-bolt saginaw box which is probably short ratio (2.5 or 3 turns, not a 4 turn box). Not necessarily a problem - but it certainly will add to the sketchiness of the steering.

 

[tdskip]

I think I have some quality time with an angle grinder and cut-off wheel in my near future.

Will get more pictures going later today.

Looks like the engine and trans mounting right now is totally level - so may have some room to introduce an downward angle there?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

best way to determine engine angle is off the intake manifold. Most manifolds (Edelbrock, Weiand, stock, etc.) have a built in 4-degree-or-so forward tilt - so that the engine can tilt rearward but the carb sits level. If you pop off the carburetor and put an angle finder on the carb mounting flange of the manifold - it should be "zero" or level. If you've got a 4-degree forward tilt at the carb flange, your engine is level, and the intake manifold is overcompensating.

For the BEST measurement, remove the intake manifold and measure from the front or rear china wall on the engine block. This should give you your 4-degree rearward angle on the indicator wheel.

Just adding some rearward tilt and moving the driveline forward a bit will go a long way toward helping out your clearance issues with the body.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks - very much appreciate the help. Will do some more digging and report back.

Transmission mounts will need to be adjusted for sure - it’s fixed in too high of a position currently.

 

[JohnnyC]

That tranny and transfer seems very long ... I see there is no drive shaft ... what does it look like (space wise) from transfer output to diff pinion?

 

[workingdog]

That engine is weirdly low. And that front hanger is obscenely tall. There is something very weird going on with the drive train. When you get a picture of the engine mount, if you can, get a pick of the tranny, transfer case and rear driveline. I'm curious what angle they are at.

 

[kevos37]

It looks to me like some movin and grooving was going on to get some elevation on that cruiser! But I must say the bib hinge spacer is priceless.

 

[tdskip]

Thanks John.

As you indicated I’m going to have to lower the drivetrain to get the body down, I am in route to take a bunch pictures of the engine compartment and will post them shortly.

Could you share some more thoughts on the NP203 to LC transfer case? Is that an issue or does that combination have a tendency to chew up driveshafts or something?

I don’t want to get ahead of myself but it’s going to be very satisfying - with loads of help from you guys-to get this thing to a better and usable state. I am convinced that there is a good FJ40 in here trying to get out.

 

[middlecalf]

Maybe the TC bolts directly to the rear diff, lol.

 

[tdskip]

Engine mount pictures

 

[tdskip]

One more - driver side