Hope to clean up my embarrassing 12v (1 Viewer)

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Plugging @NLXTACY's power distribution post(s). Probably super overkill for most applications, and maybe a bit outdated regarding components (I think BlueSea is still the go-to for fuse blocks, not sure how far inverters have come) but a lot of gold in those threads.

I used this as a rough guide when I rewired all my accessories from the battery back.

This thread on TW is also referenced a lot when it comes to re-wiring from scratch but it is a TON of information, and honestly was a little overwhelming if you don't have a clear idea of what you want (found myself stuck reading this thread for too long, not making any actual progress, etc.)
 
Once you get it all planned, assembled and tested be sure to create some kind of simple wiring diagram and keep it with the cruiser.
 
Plugging @NLXTACY's power distribution post(s). Probably super overkill for most applications, and maybe a bit outdated regarding components (I think BlueSea is still the go-to for fuse blocks, not sure how far inverters have come) but a lot of gold in those threads.

I used this as a rough guide when I rewired all my accessories from the battery back.

This thread on TW is also referenced a lot when it comes to re-wiring from scratch but it is a TON of information, and honestly was a little overwhelming if you don't have a clear idea of what you want (found myself stuck reading this thread for too long, not making any actual progress, etc.)
Appreciate it! did take a look through those threads, there is some great info in them!
 
Once you get it all planned, assembled and tested be sure to create some kind of simple wiring diagram and keep it with the cruiser.
Great tip! thanks Zack
 
Ok here's my plan / schematic

- 4 gauge running to a 200amp circuit breaker, then its splits to two strand of 8 gauge one goes directly to half (6) of the fuse panel and the other goes to a 200amp relay which is triggered by keyed power to power the other half of the fuse panel. Lastly all grounded with a 4 gauge wire going to the negative terminal.

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Ok here's my plan / schematic

- 4 gauge running to a 200amp circuit breaker, then its splits to two strand of 8 gauge one goes directly to half (6) of the fuse panel and the other goes to a 200amp relay which is triggered by keyed power to power the other half of the fuse panel. Lastly all grounded with a 4 gauge wire going to the negative terminal.

View attachment 2798504
View attachment 2798506View attachment 2798508View attachment 2798509
The breaker need to be as close to the battery as possible.
For your ground, I would run a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the frame then ground to the frame in the back.
Also refer to a wire gauge chart for wire size. If you run 8 gauge wire from a 200 amp beaker you will burn the house down.
For the intended run 4 gauge is probably to small
 
Another tip, theirs a channel under the door jams that's big enough to run the wire through to get it to the back.
 
Here you can see the breaker for my compressor it's a 50 amp and I using a 4 gauge wire to power it.
hhfXaiq2B42i7W5P1Jy3Gw-k8M2SxVEo1vL6c-Tcxles4rOoFRaRo82tETdH2BrBPka6QfOUJYNoV8xQNVgWf4Bd0scg9GcBulrN4hd0FI32y66kZ9G4jX4hfEQROlvO-ab8XtmbNX_CaaZ-egNBAWnJRqfUMapOt6IKC5kCs_G-hkw7BS0IFJSyfczMHbb4EhWER_HFEDGcIymhRPmQ_jgGnirFUznqm-oGq6uKEe6W7CYemzY_rDk898ZJ75bfyuasDqnfux2rgG4dEQwSBwSqCL36Img0gBG1InJLoKiMx5BbPuTeoygZyfJDUqD9UiPKqp7ab7erU6fvOf-RZzBe5PlyNaDgxqZ2yJIvBV6X9AcEtSX98oa0qt_HEdbVmVkxD_1Hf826JVt3-YX70B3PbusR6MnCd11YFCNW52qb27696lcPJos9UXUnBrE2gV9K565-lYzGl8Ad3nOKjAJf9bE5W6A2rpOTJRxtka8Klktz2alJSj8LFei0QZJV_jNFIAY76yliXcuDn1pl6-Ax7jqUVHAXUx77o4SKQmKlpr_aVHSKfSaLoo_22KhlZBP7KQhzsN-B6TMP3PhwPt04CJYyWSmtpTXIbgSMR-c34cv4Kwatd1UKWjiLPTnr8bch2oRIq9RtbeVH1P2okuougwDM8ZK8XkJ3f7U5aTMAzb_edkmKNAY61ix2avGvKdummQzTMj1MbqTHoA1SP4d2=w705-h939-no
 
The breaker need to be as close to the battery as possible.
For your ground, I would run a 4 gauge wire from the battery to the frame then ground to the frame in the back.
Also refer to a wire gauge chart for wire size. If you run 8 gauge wire from a 200 amp beaker you will burn the house down.
For the intended run 4 gauge is probably to small
Cheers appreciate the reply Broski!

Ok from my understanding looking at the charts it seems like 4 gauge would just be enough for 200amps for the 12 slots. Im going to mount the fuse panel in the drivers footwell. Don't have any plans for the back of my cruiser anytime soon, had wiring in my last Landcruiser from the PO to the rear and I never used it. The only thing would mayyyybe be a fridge in the future years...

Wondering your opinion on how I would modify my wiring size to suit the 200amp breaker? 2 guage to the breaker and then split it into 2 strands of 4 gauge each powering 6 slots in the fuse panel one with a relay for switched power and one being constant hot.
 
Ok here's my plan / schematic

- 4 gauge running to a 200amp circuit breaker, then its splits to two strand of 8 gauge one goes directly to half (6) of the fuse panel and the other goes to a 200amp relay which is triggered by keyed power to power the other half of the fuse panel. Lastly all grounded with a 4 gauge wire going to the negative terminal.

View attachment 2798504

Lose the 4 AWG ground and ground to the body. My understanding is that adding ground paths like this creates ground loops, causing noise in systems. Add a 4 AWG link between the battery ground and the body.

WTF $125 for a 200 amp circuit breaker?! Here's the same thing for $38.99:


IMO Blue Sea is in the business of selling you products that are around the quality of Eaton-Bussmann at several times the price.
 
OK, looking at this again and seeing where you want to mount your fuse block.
First thing I kept thing 200 amps seem like a lot so I looked it up.
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As you can see the maximum amperage for that fuse block is 100 amps
 
Using the wire barn wire gauge calculator we can see what wire will work.
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It looks like 8 gauge should be fine any bigger and you will have a hard time getting a lug to fit the fuse block.
As for getting the power to the relay, I would prefer to run the power to the fuse block then run a jumper to the relay then back to the fuse block.
Personally I don't like the idea or having the fuse block in the driver foot well, it's hard to work down there and then any time you need to check or replace a fuse your laying on your side trying to see if you have a burnt fuse 🤷‍♂️
I don't recommend grounding to body as the OEM ground wire form the battery to the body is very small maybe 12 gauge and easily over loaded.
I hope this helps.
 
Lose the 4 AWG ground and ground to the body. My understanding is that adding ground paths like this creates ground loops, causing noise in systems. Add a 4 AWG link between the battery ground and the body.


WTF $125 for a 200 amp circuit breaker?! Here's the same thing for $38.99:


IMO Blue Sea is in the business of selling you products that are around the quality of Eaton-Bussmann at several times the price.
Problem with the price is probably because I am in Canada
 
Using the wire barn wire gauge calculator we can see what wire will work.
rwFHUAOgks88vgWSF_3RAx77aZCXchEMW1S3toh0lz_7UxK9D1oDrgGtlkbZQKMQg1nbT2Oy_WU_TwkefXWZOmC-EzZs6R-RYsX3ilVGn0DwkrBEmRHpuHJRDF-CktMO3YW3tS1l7Pa24Z3UWoQkxYgmGqDTciItzAaIBV1pMpaaldj31oM92XI_xd0cGPf5r6w0rgzwyVRknvknsfyA4q9vhW44B8d9FRG4WdpOFMzwV5T4LaU-lJP53mAIxxfkBOh_7CAw3lktR9qoE6hWY2t2DnXpAPKjHW3B9aar9e_rSnUAl5-Sy16dRN5MWyvwmY9r32yeLmeoZhd6vXMzTAPo2fI6ZMAEO1U7p4L9lnS8TK5tp6H4ILXpaGWreMI108Vw7BeTYehTLf54Ldgr7KA6PsqUYMZtB6nfZp3sPGef08Kufzhfbt0zR4RqiwYhzPgCsZy3JYKr37j-UikdiixAxQ8KYv41r6qtpc9U0HW02qFHwD5GYqah-SZX3PDjeeLoEoJfRM3C_GoXQ5LU4RRibg65QZ5C4KiYQlUOVLtBeTTCuYEWkp7yli-BJXi664qK_RDz9KxX5b6YbyS1QtRmDEaos36JGlIe1-1nlsYHLW_5O5lOrDUVhJxjNeY1IXv_yRCgt6YUtfj0egkNpijUEKS_ExhQDXGaaQbPlxjQRlYiWj7rpjMvJ9gWuQ0pmu9S_9wiRIYWgNPoWOhRmqNY=w705-h939-no

It looks like 8 gauge should be fine any bigger and you will have a hard time getting a lug to fit the fuse block.
As for getting the power to the relay, I would prefer to run the power to the fuse block then run a jumper to the relay then back to the fuse block.
Personally I don't like the idea or having the fuse block in the driver foot well, it's hard to work down there and then any time you need to check or replace a fuse your laying on your side trying to see if you have a burnt fuse 🤷‍♂️
I don't recommend grounding to body as the OEM ground wire form the battery to the body is very small maybe 12 gauge and easily over loaded.
I hope this helps.

Appreciate the info, good thing I didn't go 200amp!! my plan was always to ground back directly to the battery, from my understanding this is the safest way..

As far as the relay, my question is how would that setup you described disrupt the current going to the panel if there was already a direct cable going from the batt to the panel?
 
Appreciate the info, good thing I didn't go 200amp!! my plan was always to ground back directly to the battery, from my understanding this is the safest way..

As far as the relay, my question is how would that setup you described disrupt the current going to the panel if there was already a direct cable going from the batt to the panel?
The fuse block has two power poles, the main power from the battery go's to one of them then to the relay and then to the other power pole. ;)
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The fuse block has two power poles, the main power from the battery go's to one of them then to the relay and then to the other power pole. ;)
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Ahhh DUDE! this makes sense. Then I don't have to have 2 strands going through the firewall aswell, I could tuck the relay hidden away in the footwell area! Appreciate the info!
 

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