Hood insulation pad (1 Viewer)

[1973Guppie]

My Local Toyota dealership (Santa Cruz CA) wants $170 for the underhood insulator pad! Unfortunately, Dan can't ship them as shipping is prohibitively expensive. Anyone found a good alternate source for a suitable replacement?

call around to other toy dealers and tell them you are part of toyota landcruiser association, my local dealer gives me 10% off list.....

 

[plutonius]

Thread revival. Anyone find a worthy alternative to an OEM insulator? Mines coming out & going in the trash next week to tack weld the hood bracing. Hood is lined already but I figure an insulator is a good idea. Just stick with OEM from the dealer?

 

[shocktower]

Thread revival. Anyone find a worthy alternative to an OEM insulator? Mines coming out & going in the trash next week to tack weld the hood bracing. Hood is lined already but I figure an insulator is a good idea. Just stick with OEM from the dealer?

I would not tack weld, the heat would warp the hood skin I am going to use a panel adhesive for automotive when the weather clears up

 

[richardlillard1]

Thread revival. Anyone find a worthy alternative to an OEM insulator? Mines coming out & going in the trash next week to tack weld the hood bracing. Hood is lined already but I figure an insulator is a good idea. Just stick with OEM from the dealer?

I ripped mine off in a fit of rage about three years ago. Never noticed a difference in sound or temps.

 

[cody c]

My Local Toyota dealership (Santa Cruz CA) wants $170 for the underhood insulator pad! Unfortunately, Dan can't ship them as shipping is prohibitively expensive. Anyone found a good alternate source for a suitable replacement?

I have some sort of aftermarket product on the underside of mine, I can't remember the brand but it was sold as noise/heat insulation for firewalls and has an aluminum coating surface and is made for higher temps. I may have bought it just off the web or Jegs or something, I'll try and find the manufacturer but it works fine and has an adhesive on one side and sticks very well.

 

[Funner]

My poverty pack truck was not equipped with one, wasn’t meant to have one. Must have been part of some other options package?

 

[plutonius]

I have some sort of aftermarket product on the underside of mine, I can't remember the brand but it was sold as noise/heat insulation for firewalls and has an aluminum coating surface and is made for higher temps. I may have bought it just off the web or Jegs or something, I'll try and find the manufacturer but it works fine and has an adhesive on one side and sticks very well.

This could be an option as i’d Need cutouts for the hood vents - the adhesive hasn’t melted from the heat? Pix to follow when I get into it...

 

[Marine7]

I’ve removed them from every 4x4 I’ve ever owned......no difference in sound level or paint protection! Remove it, wash the hood, and wax it..... looks MUCH BETTER, and much easier to keep engine bay clean!

 

[plutonius]

I would not tack weld, the heat would warp the hood skin I am going to use a panel adhesive for automotive when the weather clears up

Good call. Ok JB Weld, or I’ll rivet it straight thru. Already a frankenrig.

 

[cody c]

This could be an option as i’d Need cutouts for the hood vents - the adhesive hasn’t melted from the heat? Pix to follow when I get into it...

Hey, so, no melting issues...

I think I had it on for a year or so, and just a few weeks ago put in a top mount IC and hood scoop. When I cut in the hole for the hood scoop I had to cut through the sound insulation.

Essentially it was a bit of "destructive testing" while cutting and pulling out the sheet metal, what I found was the insulation was still stuck well to the hood and was hard to separate. I have a 6BT under the hood, I'm not sure if it produces more or less heat than the toyota motors, but I'll mention that as a variable.

I cleaned the hood half assedly before putting the insulation on, I'm sure +90% of the members here would have done a more thorough (OCD) job of cleaning prep but regardless it sticks to it well and I have seen no sign of heat damage.

I should also mention, I installed LED strip underhood lighting, a ground pin switch, and a toggle switch flush mounted on my fuse box during the hood insulation. Anyone thinking about putting new insulation on, you should also grab 4 LED strip lights, I'd also go with a white, or yellow-y white color, mine are a bluish color and I think the color is annoying a bit but taping the wiring to the hood prior to insulation would be the way to go.

If your going to to the hood insulation, it would also be a good time to order under hood lighting, and then run the wiring down with your windshield nozzle hose.

 

[plutonius]

Rightio & cheers for the detailed write up...hadn’t thought about under-hood lighting - I always have a 400 lumens headlamp on - but that’s a great option. If you come across the name of the insulating material pass it on!

 

[shocktower]

Good call. Ok JB Weld, or I’ll rivet it straight thru. Already a frankenrig.

I am all about the 2 part epoxy stuff, JB would cost to much, find a automotive paint supply store and they sell it or just google a metal to metal 2 part and of course wax and grease remover

 

[cody c]

I am all about the 2 part epoxy stuff, JB would cost to much, find a automotive paint supply store and they sell it or just google a metal to metal 2 part and of course wax and grease remover

If he's content to put rivets in it from the top, he's probably fine with just tack welding too, but I agree on a metal to metal caulking like sika flex or something, that would be easiest and effective. I think its what in there from the factory.

The only thing with tack welding is it might lift the bedliner or spray you have on the hood and cause it to flake later.

 

[plutonius]

If he's content to put rivets in it from the top, he's probably fine with just tack welding too, but I agree on a metal to metal caulking like sika flex or something, that would be easiest and effective. I think its what in there from the factory.

The only thing with tack welding is it might lift the bedliner or spray you have on the hood and cause it to flake later.

Yeah, I'll stay away from my welder as if it bubbles up the liner that would be a drag...not the end of the world but a PITA. I have 3 sets of JB Weld in the tool cabinet that need to be used, and that's more than enough. If the JB can't do the trick I'll rivet - rivet guns are fun.

But back to the original topic...a hood insulator seems a good idea to go back in. That's the gravy.

And the LED lights...the icing. We'll see.

 

[bonestock]

Actually, not that bad:

List: $142.70

MUD: $107.02

Shipping it would be interesting.

@beno sir, could you please advise the part # for a 97 LX450 hood insulator and retaining clips? Is there anything else that should be replaced while this is being knocked out?

Thank you in advance!

 

[Whiphub]

@beno sir, could you please advise the part # for a 97 LX450 hood insulator and retaining clips? Is there anything else that should be replaced while this is being knocked out?

Thank you in advance!

@Delta VS sells the clips on their site:

Delta Vehicle Systems

Off-road and 4x4 performance equipment designed and manufactured in Boise, Idaho. Bumpers, lift kits, storage solutions and more premier overland equipment for your off-road vehicle.

www.deltavs.com