Hood Deflection Eastwood Kit

[toadshade]

I have some serious hood deflection and I wanted to know if anyone has used the :


No-Weld Panel Repair Kit
Item #31102 Brand: Eastwood

As a repair. So far, I noticed that there is quite a gap between the brace and the skin. So I am assuming I am going to have to glob it on in places. I am nervous to do that since I do not want the skin to deform. Eastwood swears it will not expand or contract. I would rather seal a seam, but it does not look like I am going to be able to. If I made contact with the hood to the bracket, I would be pulling the skin down. Right now, my hood looks perfect (as long as I am not going 60mph+).

I have read a few threads on the subject, but there does not seem to be any real tales from users that have tried and commented on the product (or any other product.) I am about to paint the hood and I would like to get this done first.

 

[SUMMIT CRUISERS]

I've got the same issue on my 97. A good urethane seam sealer would work just fine. Not sure about the No Weld panel repair kit. Even some industrial urethanes like NP1 would also do the job.

 

[toadshade]

OK. I just happened to rread up on a thread on Corvettes (don't ask, it was a coincidence). They swear by this DAP 50 year black roof and trim product. I just went ahead and gave it a shot. BTW, I know 'vettes are glass, but this stuff is made for metal too). I crammed it in every possible spot in my hood bracing. I am in Atlanta GA and it is HOT right now. Well within working temps for the DAP. I am considering myself a test bed. I will post on a periodic basis for reliability. I like the specs. We will see. It will be sitting for 12 hours before I take it on the road tomorrow morning cold (75 degrees F). Product should be mostly tacked and cured. But my big worry is a 5-7 day absolute cure. Like I said, I will test it out and see. Worst Case, I scrape some off and do it again. I had to try since my truck would not be down for a day, let alone a week.

 

[scottryana]

Hmm usually the go to is to pull the hood off, flip it upside down, fit the seam sealer between the panel and brace and put something heavy on the brace.

 

[bryson]

Hmm usually the go to is to pull the hood off, flip it upside down, fit the seam sealer between the panel and brace and put something heavy on the brace.

Is there a chance that the hood skin ends up with bulges/ripples/whatever from the brace pulling on the outer skin with this method? Would it be better to glue it back in position where you are not pre-loading any stresses by using weight to align things (i.e. just fill the gaps with sealant/adhesive?) I understand that the brace and hood were more or less in contact from the factory, but... I don't want my hood to look like Mickey Rourke when I'm done.

I'd love to see pics of different ways this has been done.

 

[scottryana]

I think there is a lot less chance of the top of the hood skin having and issues if you lay it flat on the ground and then just use a seam sealer not some expanding foam stuff. The weight is just to push the bracing against the skin while it dries.

 

[Qball]

Had no issues with expanding foam fix, good for 2 years now.

 

[math]

Just as a heads up, I had a terrible experience with Eastwood's welders and swore not to do business with them again. They typically have a good reputation, just stating my experience.

 

[Tools R Us]

Had no issues with expanding foam fix, good for 2 years now.

As long as you are not in rust bucket land, it will work, maybe? The issue is, the foam holds moisture, have seen foamed panels rust out, even here.

The best bet; head to your local body shop supply store and ask advice, seam sealer/adhesive isn't that expensive. I have used home type Dap paint-able sealant with good results. But for more of a hole sealing, noncritical type uses, like tons of holes in FJ40 fender wells, floors, etc.

 

[inkpot]

Had no issues with expanding foam fix, good for 2 years now.

I used this stuff on my Piggy hood. Worked for about 10 years then rusted out really quickly. And, it never rains in Arizona!

 

[Qball]

Interesting, gonna have to check my hood for rust now.

 

[toadshade]

So far so good on the ride to work this morning. It says final cure time of 4-6 days, but tacks and dries in 6 hrs. I had to take the chance. Everything worked great after sitting in 100 degree heat for about 6 hours then overnight at 75 degrees + No deflection in the hood on the way to work. And it has sat out in the sun again all day. The reason I did not want to take the hood off and seal the seam with pressure was because I did not want to risk deforming the hood toward the braces. My hood has a good shape. If I pressed the hood down on the brace (+/- 1/4"), it bubbled down to the brace. Not the other way around. If I knew the brace would come UP to the hood, then I would have done it that way. But at the same time, it took about 15 minutes. If I have to take the stuff out it might be a pain, but there really isn't much easier a fix. Only time will tell. I broke off every one of the fasteners that hold the insulation to the hood when taking them off. Luckily, NAPA carries the exact same ones.

 

[Rivman1243]

Lucky or unlucky for me my hood doesn't have the insulation. It has half of the clips though. I need to glue the support back to my hood as well. Keep us posted

 

[toadshade]

I will. I hope I did not screw myself by putting on 10 times more adhesive than the original. I surrounded every triangle gap. The original adhesive was just in limited spaces and only 3-6 inches long. I used two full tubes of DAP. But I just went out there and the adhesive is really cured. Pretty hard but still slightly flexible. Good adhesion. I think it did well. Good luck with the clips. Mine were just rotted out. I even used the correct tool to try and get them out (not a screw driver) and they still popped off in pieces. I think they just got brittle. A bag of 20 was a couple bucks though.

 

[shocktower]

Interesting, gonna have to check my hood for rust now.

Did you fix your hood, and has it stayed in place ??? I am about to do mine with JB weld

 

[Qball]

Did you fix your hood, and has it stayed in place ??? I am about to do mine with JB weld

Can’t see any rust and it’s still holding just fine.

 

[dirtyboots]

3m has a bunch of youtube videos with part numbers and best practices, HTH.

 

[bryson]

Did you fix your hood, and has it stayed in place ??? I am about to do mine with JB weld

Why not use a flexible bonding product like the Eastwood stuff mentioned here? I have heard that 3M has a product that also works great for this purpose. JB weld sounds like a poor solution to me as it will give you exactly zero flex/give on a panel that moves a bunch... I'd bet the JB weld cracks the very first time you close the hood.

I think this is the 3m product that's been recommended to me:

3M™ NVH Dampening Material | 3M United States

www.3m.com

 

[shocktower]

Why not use a flexible bonding product like the Eastwood stuff mentioned here? I have heard that 3M has a product that also works great for this purpose. JB weld sounds like a poor solution to me as it will give you exactly zero flex/give on a panel that moves a bunch... I'd bet the JB weld cracks the very first time you close the hood.

I think this is the 3m product that's been recommended to me:

3M™ NVH Dampening Material | 3M United States

www.3m.com

You are probably right, I was thinking the same it needs to be flex able, I am just looking for something cost effective, I looked at some of the of them and they cost like $50-70 after you get the gun to apply it . More than likely I will be going with a 3M product or a proven for panel adhesive . Thanks for your input

 

[shocktower]

Why not use a flexible bonding product like the Eastwood stuff mentioned here? I have heard that 3M has a product that also works great for this purpose. JB weld sounds like a poor solution to me as it will give you exactly zero flex/give on a panel that moves a bunch... I'd bet the JB weld cracks the very first time you close the hood.

I think this is the 3m product that's been recommended to me:

3M™ NVH Dampening Material | 3M United States

www.3m.com

Now rereading I see they are all a two part epoxy, the same as a JB weld product the only difference is the brand, I might as well do air plane rivets and it will stay