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Joined
Feb 25, 2019
Threads
14
Messages
134
Location
Midland, TX
Cleaning up my 60 yesterday I pulled the original hood liner off and noticed that the hood support crossmembers aren’t actually attached to the hood skin. Is this right or am I actually seeing that all of those spot welds have failed?

What has everybody else used as a new liner? Dynamat? I was looking at adding Dynaliner 1/2” to the floor of my truck, I could just get enough to apply that under the hood as well.
 
Not sure on welds.

As for the liner.Yes I also had this question not knowing what to do since gonzo passed away. Been wondering if anyone was going to make something similar but haven't found anything. If you find something good let us know.
 
You can order the same aircraft foam that Gonzo used, in varying thicknesses, by the foot. I got mine from Aircraft Spruce. I used it on the hood of my Grand Wagoneer and on the ceiling, above the headliner. I made cardboard templates for the hood, since it would be visible.
 
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You have to use a body panel glue similar to this 2-part Norton product.
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Awesome. Thanks guys. Guess I’ll add that glue/sealant to the list and figure out the liner after that.
 
So I’m curious to know your thoughts on this since you’ve done a few of them. I did not compress the crossmembers to the underside of the skin. Seemed to me they came from the factory with a gap and were attached by thick patches of this glue like I did in the above pics. I’ve got many hoods and found some where the original bond was still in place and it had a gap. This is similar to what I did on the roof crossmembers. My thought was if I glued the crossmembers directly to the skin (100%) then it would deform the hood. Would love to see some pics of how you did this. Always trying to learn the correct process as I hope to do many more down the road. Thanks. Jimmy
 
I don't think you have much to worry about. I did not remove the fqctory glue on my '76 FJ55 or '89 FJ62. All I did was make an effort to not introduce a new gap that hadn't been there before. The simplest way to do this was to prop the support ribs with 2x4s and let the weight of the hood rest on them while the glue cured.
 

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