Builds Homer's 2003 GX470 Build (1 Viewer)

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I bought a Tesla as my daily driver, so the GX470 is only a weekend offroad vehicle now.

Yet, I do worry about the 1% chance of having to perform an emergency maneuver when driving on pavement to the trail.

Those pavement drives can be 3 to 8 hours to get to trails from here in SoCal and Arizona/Utah
 
I am still trying to figure out how to have an antirock AND an LRA tank with some frame changes and body cutting but no go so far.
@GXO your problems are not the same as us mortals with oem sway bars and stockish suspensions! Lol
 
I was already planning on doing this but it also echoes what @GXO has been telling everyone for years...keep the rear, ditch the front
I remember his advice was keep one sway bar. If you remove both, you better have the next step like anti rock

Kai’s videos and measurements really help me see why one option might be better than another.

If I just wasn’t chicken 🐔 to remove a sway bar…because of the 1% chance I might roll!
 
Just my two cents, I run no sway bars front or rear and I also daily my truck, doing a lot of highway miles when not on the trail. I also ran this setup in my FJ Cruiser.

You can definitely feel the body roll with both removed, particularly in tighter turns/corners and especially when taking highway on/off ramps with a bit of speed
but other than those instances I don't really notice it when driving the majority of the time, you get use to the new characteristics of this setup pretty quickly and if you drive slow and steady like I do most of the time its not really a problem. I've definitely had to preform a quick evasive maneuver or two since deleting them but it wasn't an issue.

In my option putting the sway bar on and off is not really worth the effort, I would imagine snaking it in and out of position would kind of be a pain in the ass to do if you're doing it more than once or twice a year. I don't have any experience w/ this because once I removed them I put them on the shelf, but seems if you are concerned about on road handling w/ no front sway bar it would be beneficial to just install quick disconnects, so you don't have to snake it in an out of position each time you want to wheel...but not sure if anyone makes them for our trucks yet?
 
You may be able to just unbolt the end links and swing the bar up and out of play. I can't speak to this since Mine's kdss, so a different configuration, but it may be possible?
 
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It's not hard at all to pull it off. Zip off the 4 sway bar bracket 17 mm bolts into the frame, then two of the end link bolts (also 17 mm) with an electric impact. If your skid plates have enough clearance, then remove the bar from the sides. I've pulled mine off before when working on the GX and it's 5-10 minutes of work. If you can't snake it out of the skidplates, it would be much harder. It would also be harder without an electric impact (I carry one in my GX at all times).

Not something I'd pull off for a quick 3-mile trail ride, but would definitely pull it off for an extended wheeling trip on challenging trails.
 
I wasn’t gonna do it as a full takeoff at the trail. I’m gonna take off the front st home.

Drive it around the city and freeway just to see if it’s okay for me.

Go try it in February at the Old Dale Road behind Joshua Tree.
 
Duplicate post…iPhone acting up
 
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You may be able to just unbolt the end links and swing the bar up and out of play. I can't speak to this since. Mines kdss, so a different configuration, but it may be possible?
The end link is about 1” from the cv boot! But good idea on removing only the ends and folding them temporarily to try.

I’m not sure I can easily clear the engine skid plate to remove the sway bar
Just my two cents, I run no sway bars front or rear and I also daily my truck, doing a lot of highway miles when not on the trail. I also ran this setup in my FJ Cruiser.

You can definitely feel the body roll with both removed, particularly in tighter turns/corners and especially when taking highway on/off ramps with a bit of speed
but other than those instances I don't really notice it when driving the majority of the time, you get use to the new characteristics of this setup pretty quickly and if you drive slow and steady like I do most of the time its not really a problem. I've definitely had to preform a quick evasive maneuver or two since deleting them but it wasn't an issue.

In my option putting the sway bar on and off is not really worth the effort, I would imagine snaking it in and out of position would kind of be a pain in the ass to do if you're doing it more than once or twice a year. I don't have any experience w/ this because once I removed them I put them on the shelf, but seems if you are concerned about on road handling w/ no front sway bar it would be beneficial to just install quick disconnects, so you don't have to snake it in an out of position each time you want to wheel...but not sure if anyone makes them for our trucks yet?
quick disconnects are not available for GX470, but that would be the ideal solution if available.

Because I have HD coils and digressive shocks in the front without added weight….I feel that removing only the front is going to be okay.

I feel the need to try it! Lol
 
Try it!! I run just a rear and it’s been no issues to date. Mostly highway miles (about 15k) with a handful of off-road trips sprinkled in. Couldn’t see going back anytime soon.
 
Front sway bar is now off
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Uploading my notes on rear LT springs

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Did you switch to those Apache off-road springs?
 
Did you switch to those Apache off-road springs?
After further analysis paralysis, I decided the 677V would fit my current needs. I haven’t purchased yet but that’s what I want to try.

So, 675V a tad too short for me when loaded with my camping gear and supplies. I have this now.

I think 677V is about right.

Apache 735V too tall especially if I unload the gear.
 
After further analysis paralysis, I decided the 677V would fit my current needs. I haven’t purchased yet but that’s what I want to try.

So, 675V a tad too short for me when loaded with my camping gear and supplies. I have this now.

I think 677V is about right.

Apache 735V too tall especially if I unload the gear.

Yeah that’s where I’m at right now. I think the 677v would be right with gear in the drawer that’s always in the back of the truck but I’d definitely want a bit more when I get a bumper
 
Well, my trip from Berdoo Canyon through Joshua Tree to the Rose of Peru and Brooklyn Mines went well.

This was my first trip with no front sway bar (with rear sway bar on).

The freeway driving for 2 hours going 70-75 mph was fine. It did feel a little more boaty in the front but I would say that it was a 10% difference from when I had both sway bars.

I do have Bilstein 6112s in the front with HD 700# coils and that probably helps not sway so bad.

Offroad I felt more planted. Like my tires stayed on the ground and didnt lift a front tire like in the past.

Anyways, I had a good first experience on this trip with no front sway bar.

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Looks like my rear timbren bumpstops are a little too close to the rear axle.

Drove about 2 hours offroad which included sections of rutted or rocky or washboard or sandy roads.

I had to remove a screw from my rear tire and patch it and I noticed a big mark on my axle from the timbren bumpstop. I did bottom out a couple times when hitting a big dip on the dirt road.

I need to either get slightly longer 677v rear coils (675v on right now) or rear coil spacers to lift about 3/4” on driver and 1/2” on passenger (to fix the driver side lean as well).

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Could also try a set of these and sell the inner bumpstops to another forum member:

I have them on my GX (lowest setting). Have not had to adjust them yet but probably will bump things up a bit when 33s are added.
 
I wouldn't worry about the mark on the axle. That's pretty normal and the wheelers bumps that I put in have done the same thing to my axle although I had more lift before I added my drawer. If it feels comfortable send it
 

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