Home Made SST Thread (1 Viewer)

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In the valley of the Great Salt Lake.
Good thread idea!

I'll keep an eye on this and maybe put it in FAQ.
 
Simple one but useful: 3FE crankshaft immobilizer.

Take a 30" (approximate; longer if you have a tall lift) piece of 3/16" x 2" flat stock, cut a radius out of it to fit the end of the crank, drill three holes to match the pulley bolts.

toolfulllength.jpg


newtool.jpg


Use the pulley bolts to attach it to the crankshaft. The length of the tool needs to be long enough so that the ground will interfere and hold it while you take off or torque on the big crankshaft nut, but short enough that you can still maneuver it in and out of the engine bay space.

toolinaction.jpg
 
I made a good one for the FF rear lock nut. I'll take a pic later today.
 
Went cruising thru my pictures looking for the various tools that I've posted about over the years.

My fabricated quick centered knuckle checking tool:
IMG_0842.jpg

Don't bother copying it, it did not work well due to the camber built into the knuckle itself. I included it because this sort of tool concept has popped up from time to time and I found it not worth pursuing.

My FF rear wheel bearing nut tool:
IMG_0651.jpg


IMG_0652.jpg


A jpg of the model of the corner weight checking tool that I use for setting up coil-overs:
cornerweight.jpg

Uses a beam type torque wrench in the end of the horizontal bar, with a 10:1 ratio. The little lip sticking up at the other end contacts the wheel, ideally in the safety groove. So if it takes a 30 ft-lbs reading on the torque wrench to lift a tire enough for the piece of paper that was under the tire to be slid out then there is 300 lbs of vehicle weight on that tire.

The bead-breaker tool that I was shown how to build:
IMG_0446.jpg


BeadBreaker1.jpg


BeadBreaker2.jpg


The already mentioned brake bleeder (I've edited the linked post to include the picture too):
IMG_0984.jpg
 
I've made a single piece transfer case puller but I don't have pictures of it right now. I think I got the idea from a Toyota Trails article.
 
Cross posted from the DIY alignment thread.
DSCN1745.jpg


The screw heads are set up for 28" and 33", the angle iron is 36" long total
DSCN1746.jpg


BTW I later had a professional alignment done and my final measurements were dead nuts on with their initial measurements, which confirms that this method really works.
 
I like those pliers. Do they work pretty well? Might be able to make some wire stripping pliers work like that?
 
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Plywood adapter for transmission jack

Here is the piece of plywood that I bolted to the platform on a Harbor Frieght transmission jack so that I could secure the stock toyota transmission mount to the transmission/TC.
plywood plus mount.jpg
Right of Transm..jpg
 
Thanks Rusty for the resize. I could have used the snip tool I guess to make them smaller.


I like those pliers. Do they work pretty well? Might be able to make some wire stripping pliers work like that?

I like them. My uncle used to work on Land Cruisers in Africa and he had some. I didn't know what they were for until he showed me. Pretty slick I think and I made my own to keep with me.
 
Any more ?
 
now we just need a tool that makes taking the c clips out of the hub easy!
 
now we just need a tool that makes taking the c clips out of the hub easy!
C-Clip on the axle right under the locking hub's dial? Snap-On makes a very nice (as you'd expect) set of "pliers" to do this job. I never leave on a trip w/o them. I'd expect that OTC or KD offers something similar.
 
3FE Front Crankshaft Nut Removal Tool

Here is a picture of my SST, based off of 1911's "crankshaft immobilizer"; since my engine was out of the vehicle, I had to put a 4 foot long cheater bar on the end for my wife to hang on to. Changing the front main seal was a breeze... :)

FMS_2.jpg
FMS_2.jpg
 

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