Hog Hunting (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 5, 2020
Threads
11
Messages
51
Location
Portland, OR
I have been hog hunting for quite some time now. As you know, they are hard to come by, and the only ones that seem to turn up are more rust than steel.
But I am happy to say I have found one and I am bringing it home soon!
IMG_6796.jpg


A coworker of mine has had this for 20ish years and, just over casual conversation he mentioned he had a LC he was trying (not actively) to sell. I very calmly asked him what LC he had, and when I found out it was a pig, I don't know how I did't loose my cool!

I went and looked at it and took these pictures. We have been negotiating and have finally struck a deal. I now just need my tax refund so I can go get it!

I have been a Toyota guy my whole life. I have had four 4runners and two trucks (the only cars I have owned that have not been Toyotas were both my wife's. She came with a Honda civic, and then we bought her a volvo and I am embarrassed to admit it! She now has a 4runner limited and we will never look back).
I am happy to add to a long line of Toyotas with this 55!

Here is the pigs current status:
9/71
Has been sitting for 10 years, and he hasn't started it in 6 years.
PO says that it is all original, but there is an after market carb on it (webber?).
It has rust in the usual places, but it isn't bad, and is just starting to peak out from under the paint.
Interior is in good shape, but has a mouse smell.
It has 220k miles
Tires are shot

My intent is to get this thing running and try to keep it as original as possible. Hope it to be a daily driver for my work commute.
More pics:
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Once I get it to my shop, here is what I plan to do in no particular order:
Put the pig on a set of rollers and get the wheels turning (assuming the brakes might be locked up)
Get some FSMs
New battery
See if I can get it to fire with some starter fluid.
Drop the gas tank and get it cleaned
New fluids throughout
New tires
Get a OEM carb
rebuild the brakes
New shocks and steering stabilizer
3" OME lift
Maybe replace tie rod ends, etc
Repair any other minor things that are not working... probably the rear window.

I have been looking around this forum for months now, and I have learned a tone!
Any advice as I embark on this adventure would be much appreciated!

Abe
 
Put Mystery oil down plug holes before firing. Let it sit for at least 24 hours. They sell a fog bomb for interior , may get rid of mouse piss smell. Need to run the heat while its fogging

Oh yeah! Thanks for the tip. I was also wondering if it would help if I took the valve cover off and poured some oil on everything since it has been sitting so long.

I imagine a bomb would greatly help the mouse piss smell. Also, this being Oregon winter, I assume if I dry it out a bit, the smell might dissipate.
 
Don't maybe do the tie rod ends...DO the tie rod ends. You will be much happier!

If you're working the brakes anyway, you may look at doing the disk swap up front. Makes it stop smoother and all around better for a daily.

Thanks for the tip!

As for front discs... you know I have been considering that. I am a "do it right the first time" kind of person, so I am scared to entertain that idea too much as I will soon end up with "just a quick axle swap"! haha!

Seems like the other legit option is a knuckle swap, but that seems a bit hard for me as I am just starting out as a pig butcher.

I would like to keep things as original and simple to get parts for as possible.

Any thoughts?
 
I am prepared for other opinions on this, BUT the fact that the truck has been sitting for 6+ years means its going to need a knuckle job. Those axle seals dry up and you will be leaving diff fluid where ever you park. SO that being the case, you're going to need to pull the front hub assembly apart anyway which entails removing the front drum brakes from the spindle. Disc brakes for the 40 series axle (yep 55 and 40 share an axle) are pretty easy to come by and will bolt up to your axle housing with no modification whatsoever. You will need the birf from the 75+ axle because the drum front used 6 spline outers and the disc uses 30.

I daily drove my old 40 with drum fronts and considering what we are all used to now, which is mostly 4 wheel disc, front drums scare me. You can get them dialed in where the two wheels stop evenly but they dont always wear the same so there is a need for frequent adjustment. Front disc are set and forget.

I also (once again opinion here) dont feel like you switching to a later front brake setup would ruin the originality of the truck. You're still putting vintage toyota parts on a vintage truck, just making it a little safer to scoot around town in.
 
Thanks for the tip!

As for front discs... you know I have been considering that. I am a "do it right the first time" kind of person, so I am scared to entertain that idea too much as I will soon end up with "just a quick axle swap"! haha!

Seems like the other legit option is a knuckle swap, but that seems a bit hard for me as I am just starting out as a pig butcher.

I would like to keep things as original and simple to get parts for as possible.

Any thoughts?

getting some 40/60 knuckles for front disc isn’t hard at all. Be a great first project to handle. It will still be all Crusier and be wayyyy more drivable.

Leave the weird factory steering set up, but swap the disc knuckles and replace the worn factory steering components. Should be able to do it all for $600? In parts.

thats a great find!!🐷🐷🐷🐷
 
getting some 40/60 knuckles for front disc isn’t hard at all. Be a great first project to handle. It will still be all Crusier and be wayyyy more drivable.

Leave the weird factory steering set up, but swap the disc knuckles and replace the worn factory steering components. Should be able to do it all for $600? In parts.

thats a great find!!🐷🐷🐷🐷

Be careful with your parts. If you go with 60 fronts you will need shims for your steering linkage and you will need to trim the axle housing slightly for the birf to fit in because the 60 has slightly larger birfields.

It is certainly do-able, i have made that change a few times and its pretty simple, just know it is not as easy to bolt and go as the 40 axle setup switch.
 
I am prepared for other opinions on this, BUT the fact that the truck has been sitting for 6+ years means its going to need a knuckle job. Those axle seals dry up and you will be leaving diff fluid where ever you park. SO that being the case, you're going to need to pull the front hub assembly apart anyway which entails removing the front drum brakes from the spindle. Disc brakes for the 40 series axle (yep 55 and 40 share an axle) are pretty easy to come by and will bolt up to your axle housing with no modification whatsoever. You will need the birf from the 75+ axle because the drum front used 6 spline outers and the disc uses 30.

I daily drove my old 40 with drum fronts and considering what we are all used to now, which is mostly 4 wheel disc, front drums scare me. You can get them dialed in where the two wheels stop evenly but they dont always wear the same so there is a need for frequent adjustment. Front disc are set and forget.

I also (once again opinion here) dont feel like you switching to a later front brake setup would ruin the originality of the truck. You're still putting vintage toyota parts on a vintage truck, just making it a little safer to scoot around town in.

Thats a good point about the knuckles needing to be rebuilt anyway. I guess you convinced me!
That was easy.

I agree that there is no originality issues here. I just want to keep it simple and Toyota, so I can remember how to service it, and I can pass that info on to a future owner too (I hope I don't need to sell it down the road).

Thanks for the thoughts!
 
Be careful with your parts. If you go with 60 fronts you will need shims for your steering linkage and you will need to trim the axle housing slightly for the birf to fit in because the 60 has slightly larger birfields.

It is certainly do-able, i have made that change a few times and its pretty simple, just know it is not as easy to bolt and go as the 40 axle setup switch.

Thanks for the input!
I will start to look around at threads on the topic. Let me know if you know of any in particular that would be helpful.

Also, let me know if anyone has some knuckles that would work for this! May as well take the plunge!
 
Front axle rebuild:

Also a good place to find info is the FAQ section of the 40/55 tech. When it comes to your pig it is essentially a stretched 40 so 99% of the tech info for driveline and engine will be the same.

FAQ: FAQ - 40-series FAQ
 
Once I get it to my shop, here is what I plan to do in no particular order:

Put @cruiseroutfit on speed dial on your phone: 801-563-1277 - DIRECT ORDER/TECH LINE. Cruiser Outfitters

I will ask for Kurt if available if I have a “Very” technical question for some of the weird stuff I get myself into but honestly any of the guys that answer the phone will be very knowledgeable about what you want or need and get to the exact quality part the first time.

I could not have built my pig without their help and they are always my first call when I think I need something.
 
Put @cruiseroutfit on speed dial on your phone: 801-563-1277 - DIRECT ORDER/TECH LINE. Cruiser Outfitters

I will ask for Kurt if available if I have a “Very” technical question for some of the weird stuff I get myself into but honestly any of the guys that answer the phone will be very knowledgeable about what you want or need and get to the exact quality part the first time.

I could not have built my pig without their help and they are always my first call when I think I need something.

Thanks for the help! It is always good to know the right place to call!
 
Nice pig!
 

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