HJ61 heater output lousy

[Wherlwind]

My HJ61 seems to put out a lot less heat than my HJ60. There doesn't seem to be anything wrong with it that I can find so far.Did we just get better heaters in Canadian models than Japanese or should I keep looking for something wrong with it? Pete

 

[Garry]

It may just need burping. Try undoing a heater hose at the highest point and squeezing the top radiator hose to get the air out.

 

[crushers]

the 12HT puts out wicked heat...

could also need flushing...new thermostate or if it is real cold a piece of cardboard in front of the rad...

 

[skoki]

Your blower motor brushes might be shot too. My HJ60 with over 400,000 km had NO brushes left. The brush springs were the only electrical contact. I can't believe I had any heat coming out.

 

[UpsideDown]

Need more info:

Is the blower working? Does it work at all 4 settings?

If not any, then check fuses. Then test the blower motor itself - may need brushes.

If some speeds work and others don't - you need to repair or replace the resistor assembly. You can test the values and use ceramic resistors from an electronics shop if you don't want to pay Toyota prices.

If you get heat out of the rear heater, and your front heater blower works and your heater selector is working, then your heater core may be blocked or partially blocked. Even relatively small amounts of deposits inside the heater core will reduce performance.

Also, as it's common on 40 series, I'll mention it here... make sure your heater core is cleaned from debris such as leaves, fluff and mold etc... if air can't pass over it, then won't give you hot air.

In any case, more details would be helpful.

~John

 

[dweisger]

I had some problems with my HDJ81 from Japan. It was the valve on the top of the firewall (near the middle) that controls the coolant flow through the heater core. Its cable driven and it was stuck nearly shut. I disconnected the cable and opened it by hand (takes about 3 seconds including removing the cable end).

I'll free up the mechanism that controls it in the springtime when its warmer outside. Its damn too cold now to be messing around with plastic clips and what not. She roars heat now and has even the wife complaining. By the way I have the auto climate control system. I'm assuming it a servo that adjusts the valve.....I hope it's just stuck......but its behind the dash and I'm not messing with it.....for now.

 

[JohnnyBoy]

i dont know if the t-stat is the same as mine but the gas tstat fit on fine but had bypass in it and i got no heat. i had to change the tstat for the diesel one.

 

[fe sus]

"If you get heat out of the rear heater, and your front heater blower works and your heater selector is working, then your heater core may be blocked or partially blocked. Even relatively small amounts of deposits inside the heater core will reduce performance."

Exactly my problem... guess I need to pull the heater core and clean it...

 

[Otterav]

"If you get heat out of the rear heater, and your front heater blower works and your heater selector is working, then your heater core may be blocked or partially blocked. Even relatively small amounts of deposits inside the heater core will reduce performance."

Exactly my problem... guess I need to pull the heater core and clean it...

Hey,
My wifes car(Acura,) an '89, had the same problem the heater core was corroded/clogged to the point of no heat at all. My honda CR500 was overheating and cooling was extremely compromised. Solution?
I went to the hardware store and got all the tub and shower cleaners I could find and poured them into the Honda radiators. The lime and corrosion cleaners ate the crud like peroxide on a bloody cut. I then tried the tub and scum cleaner on my wifes heater core, she says it works like new now. The best cleaner was a tub and tile cleaner called EDFREDS, active ingedient phosphoric acid. To do, remove the heater hoses and replace with longer hoses to move the inlet and outlets higher than the core. Fill the hoses with the solution and let sit for awhile(I let them set for 5 hrs). It will smell like sulfer dioxide(rotten egg/fart smell). When you are satisfied that the crud is cleared(repeat if necessary until core is clear) flush with hose water for a long time to remove the residual cleaner, it will take awhile because EDFRED's has a surfectant(like simple green) to insure wetting. I then filled the cooling system with water and drove for a day, drained and repeated 3 times. I finally drained and refilled the systems with distilled wated and anti-freeze. For the record the Honda motorcycle radiators were SHINY clean without a hint of corrosion. Of course if the core is weak or being held together with corrosion this will open it right up. Which would have happened anyway, sooner or later.
good luck
eric