HJ45 starts then stops (1 Viewer)

[farmer4177]

I have a HJ45 that starts up ok after glowing but shuts down after a couple of seconds. It does have the edic system on it but have the arm disconnected and it still does the same thing so seems as though its not being shut down by oil pressure or anything similar. I've come to a bit of a loss as to what's causing it.
Any ideas anyone?

 

[duncanrm]

Does it shut down cleanly, or does it splutter to a stop. Does it immediately start up again if you attempt to start it.

 

[farmer4177]

it starts straight away but then shuts down again. stops reasonably cleanly

 

[duncanrm]

Are you sure you're pulling the EDIC arm off?

Is the time that it takes to shutdown the same every time or does it vary?

Are you able to video this start/stop/start cycle and upload it to youtube or something?

 

[farmer4177]

Definately have the arm off. yeah I can video it but not near the car for a couple of days

 

[gerg]

Do you have a manual glow or the stock system? Inadequate glow can stall an engine fairly quick.

 

[farmer4177]

It has a glow position on the key. so it is stock but it is a manual system I guess .

 

[gerg]

So it's the stock system. It probably isn't glowing properly. Might Consider checking how much power your system is putting to the plugs and for how long or you can disconnect the stock plug from the glow plug bar and putting a Wilson switch in.

 

[farmer4177]

Ok I'll give that a try .thanks

 

[gerg]

observing the volatage and duration of the glow cycle will give you good insight into what's going on. You can clip it to the bus bar(the bar that connects all the plugs together) and ground and face the multi meter to you on the window. Cleaning up the contacts on the bus bar where it connects go each glow plug with a bit of dielectric grease can also help a lot. Even a tiny bit of corrosion can affect the conduction. In very cold weather your engine needs all the help it can get. That's why I like the manual button style switch, also known as a Wilson switch, as you have direct control over the glow. You can vary it as needed.

 

[farmer4177]

ok thanks for the help. I wont be near the car for a couple of days but will try for extra glow.

 

[duncanrm]

ok thanks for the help. I wont be near the car for a couple of days but will try for extra glow.

You're in Pt Pirie? You'd pretty much be able to start without glow plugs at this time of year.. mid 20s.. might take 10 seconds of cranking, but it'd start.

 

[farmer4177]

yeah I would have thought so too but I will give it a try just in case

 

[samwise]

Ive had similar problems for years. I replaced pre heat timer, glow plug timer, EDIC motor, been through the glow system, have a wilson switch, and still get this occasionally. Often when its hot actually, its less since having engine rebuilt, but still a rare occurance. I have found cleaning all grounds seems to help for awhile, sometimes lol.
sorry not more help!

 

[Squash]

Dumb question.
Are you adding fuel when starting?
I assume you are pushing the pedal down....

 

[samwise]

I don’t ever push on the pedal starting, I used to try that when I first got it, but it always seemed to flood it or make it not run well. I do use the choke when it is cold , yes it is the same thing, but I don’t pull it until after its started.

 

[Squash]

That's not a choke....that's throttle!
A cold diesel with shake rattle and moan until it warms up.
Sounds like you need to add fuel via throttle.
Note: No fuel, no smoke, no start!
My 3b will complain more than my wife at -20 below zero, the Toyota manual states depress throttle fully to start when cold.

 

[samwise]

The OP and myself were not referring to actually starting, and for my problem its when hot and warmed up it will occasionally shut down, and not referring to shaking, or being cold, its an old diesel, thats a given and not what Im referring too.
I believe the OP and I are talking about it starting fine, dying, like it was shut off. Thats what I read from the above posts.

 

[Squash]

Haha!
Been a long winter up here, not that I mind other than always getting the diesel to start. Just finished a hard start because of cold conditions gelling the fuel and or ice in the fuel lines. My fault because I should have added a fuel conditioner as the unit has been a garage queen for the last 10 years.
Sam,
Your hot engine not starting would suck. Being hot you can rule out the glow system. So oil pressure...and fuel are the key.
When hot starting do you have good pressure at the primer? It's either hard to pump meaning good pressure or spongy meaning that you are sucking air towards the fuel tank. Have you cracked the bleeder looking for air bubbles in the fuel?

The more expensive option of course is the IP which can make starting dodgey as they become old and tired.

 

[farmer4177]

I have finally got back to this toyota to have another go. it starts and runs for a second or 2 after which it seems to run out of fuel.the control arm from the edic is defintely not connected. I'm thinking about getting an electric fuel pump and connecting that up just to make sure in getting fuel to the ip. any other suggestions?