Highway Speed Shake When Braking (1 Viewer)

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I noticed 1 (didn't look @ the others) of the front brake lines outer rubber is cracked. I will replace all the axle to rotor lines. Can these cracks in the rubber sheath in the line cause this? I see y'all using the word 'pulsating'. It's more of a shake/shimmy/vibration than it is a pulsating sensation. A little more info:
I used the ~$30 pads from Oreilly
I used the ~$55 rotors from Napa
Calipers have 168K miles on them
 
One problem I had many years ago with some rotors on a new vehicle was poor metalurgy which left spots in the rotors that were harder than others. This caused a lot of pulsation which "surprise" didn't go away with turning. It took about 5k miles to show up. Once they were replaced the brakes worked great.
 
Yes, pulsation, brake shimmy, same thing. Resurface rotors and use oem pads, or known good performance pads. Driving habits also play a huge role in overheating brakes.
 
Also, if it is simply a case of excessive thickness variation of the rotors from excessive pad material transfer, it will go away on its own after the high spots wear down. This is assuming that the brakes do not continually overheat. I would suspect that the pads have insufficient heat range for this vehicle.
 
Also, if it is simply a case of excessive thickness variation of the rotors from excessive pad material transfer, it will go away on its own after the high spots wear down. This is assuming that the brakes do not continually overheat. I would suspect that the pads have insufficient heat range for this vehicle.
Can y'all suggest a good brake pad?
 
Incorrect. Toyota does not force any one to do it on the vehicle. They recommend it, but not force it. We still use a brake lathe.

Sorry should have specified for warranty claims. They won't pay our warranty claims if they are not cut on car.
 
Sorry should have specified for warranty claims. They won't pay our warranty claims if they are not cut on car.
What do y'all charge to do it?
 
It pays an hour of labor on car, but I'm sure labor rates are more reasonable in Texas than California.
 
Don't know if you found the answer yet but I have a slightly bent rim on another car that does exactly what the OP describes. Everything is fine till I hit the brakes hard at speed.
 
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After reading tons of brake websites & threads I've decided tomorrow morning I'll try re-bedding the brakes. I'll post back with results.
 
Can y'all suggest a good brake pad?

Ebc green or yellow pads. Ive also heard good things about the stoptechs. Cracked brake lines can indicate internal wear of the line which can cause small tears in the inner jacketing and obstruct brake fluid flow to the caliper and can also cause slow bleed from the caliper which would create high amounts of heat.
 
Check your panhard rod bolts are tight and your wheel bearings are adjusted correctly.
And that your caliper is actually bolted on tight.
 
After reading tons of brake websites & threads I've decided tomorrow morning I'll try re-bedding the brakes. I'll post back with results.
I rebedded the brakes. It took away about 30% of the shimmy. Now when I'm coming to a stop I feel the brakes grab/let go/grab/let go/grab/let go. I didn't feel that before. Any new guesses?
 
Rebuild those calipers already or get new ones!! :deadhorse:
 
It's not calipers if it was reduced 30% by re bedding the pads. Get a set of quality rotors like oem or dba and it will disappear.
 
I realize when I initially installed the pads & rotors (~10K miles ago) I didn't bed them in near as good as I should have and after I did I came to a complete stop which is a big no-no while the rotors are super hot.
Question:
If it was, & still is, doing this due to brake pad material stuck to the rotors (which is why after rebedding I got the 30% improvement, right?), would putting on a set of PowerStop pads & bedding them in properly get the rest of the pad material off the rotors (assuming there's more pad material stuck to rotors)?
 
Probably not, you could always have your existing rotors turned rather than replace them.
 
I realize when I initially installed the pads & rotors (~10K miles ago) I didn't bed them in near as good as I should have and after I did I came to a complete stop which is a big no-no while the rotors are super hot.
Question:
If it was, & still is, doing this due to brake pad material stuck to the rotors (which is why after rebedding I got the 30% improvement, right?), would putting on a set of PowerStop pads & bedding them in properly get the rest of the pad material off the rotors (assuming there's more pad material stuck to rotors)?

Think about this for a second. If there is pad material sticking to the rotor, it's because the pads and rotors are getting too hot. It's quite likely that you got the pads and rotors hot enough during the rebedding(?) process to remove some of pad material.

But why are they getting that hot to begin with? I bet you'll find pitting on the side of your caliper pistons causing them to stick.
 

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