Recently switched brake fluid. [ATE-TYP200] I was getting brake fade on the trail when crawling/ high heat/ steep hills. I have a good working brake system i.e. master, lines, pads & rotors. Did frequent bleedings to make sure I flushed out cooked, compressed, water absorbed fluid.
Problem is, when brakes get really hot, fluid boils and causes gas to develop in the lines which then leads to a spongy brake feeling until the system has an opportunity to evacuate the gasses.
Boiling points is separated into wet and dry boiling points (brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water, except DOT 5 which is silicone) - dry boiling point means that is the temperature the fluid vaporizes out of the container - wet boiling point is the temperature which the fluid vaporizes after it has absorbed some water. moisture can enter the system when you remove the cap, through the rubber lines and through seals which are the weak points in the system. DOT 3 can absorb up to 2% of water each year - the higher the DOT the higher the boiling point.
So.. The fluid I switched to below, is the same fluid I use to run in a track car which saw plenty of heat and glowing red rotors. Worked great, figured id try it out for the 80. Last weekend, was out on a good steep trail and spent a lot of time on the brakes. Not once did I feel like I needed to push the pedal harder to get the 80 to stop.
If you experience brake fade when out, might give this a try. I bled the system in the following order PR-DR-PF-DF (passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front) Bought 2 bottles and flushed the system with one bottle then used the 2nd to top off the master.
Brand - ATE TYP 200
HTH
Problem is, when brakes get really hot, fluid boils and causes gas to develop in the lines which then leads to a spongy brake feeling until the system has an opportunity to evacuate the gasses.
Boiling points is separated into wet and dry boiling points (brake fluid is hygroscopic which means it absorbs water, except DOT 5 which is silicone) - dry boiling point means that is the temperature the fluid vaporizes out of the container - wet boiling point is the temperature which the fluid vaporizes after it has absorbed some water. moisture can enter the system when you remove the cap, through the rubber lines and through seals which are the weak points in the system. DOT 3 can absorb up to 2% of water each year - the higher the DOT the higher the boiling point.
So.. The fluid I switched to below, is the same fluid I use to run in a track car which saw plenty of heat and glowing red rotors. Worked great, figured id try it out for the 80. Last weekend, was out on a good steep trail and spent a lot of time on the brakes. Not once did I feel like I needed to push the pedal harder to get the 80 to stop.
If you experience brake fade when out, might give this a try. I bled the system in the following order PR-DR-PF-DF (passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front) Bought 2 bottles and flushed the system with one bottle then used the 2nd to top off the master.
Brand - ATE TYP 200
HTH
