High start Idle on the FZJ motor (1 Viewer)

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Jul 21, 2003
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Wilmington, NC
I did the o-ring fix this weekend on my 94 FZJ80 for the high idle when you first start it up. My question is for people who have done this before. I first put to o-rings on it and it would barely idle! I then put one on and it barely made a difference. What should I do now.


Tim
 
I could be wrong on this, and I'm sure the rest of the team will quickly correct me if I am........., but, here goes. The ECU has to "re-learn and correct" the idle rpm. It make take as many as ten to fifteen restarts for the ECU to sense the change you made to the IAC valve and correct for it. So, put the two o-rings back on as instructed and just give the ECU time to make the necessary idle rpm corrections.

Wayne S
 
Did you re-index the valve to the fully closed position on reassembly? If not, it will take a few restarts or a drive for the engine to readjust as noted above. Give it some time and if you are not satisfied with the results, perhaps a thinner O ring as the second ring would work on your particular vehicle.

Please report back as I'm interested in doing this on my '93.

Doug
 
yes I did put the valve in the fully closed position when I reinstalled it. I drove it about 15 miles and it still would idle very low at stop lights. It would idle so low that the L/C would sake until you gave it alittle gas. I think I will try to put a thinner o-ring on for the second. If any of you guys are planning on doing this, I do have one piece of advice. Those little phillips screws are very easy to strip!!!!


Tim
 
Tim,
I believe start/stop cycles are more important to the ECU training than driving miles.
-B-
 
It is kind of a combination of both. The computer has to see drive cycles. That means it has to see certain conditions. So you have to start it and drive it until the coolant sensor gets warm, the O2 reads, X amount of time at cruise, X amount of time at idle and off idle, the EVAP purges, etc.
 
[quote author=Gumby link=board=2;threadid=6799;start=msg56118#msg56118 date=1067365387]
It is kind of a combination of both. The computer has to see drive cycles. That means it has to see certain conditions. So you have to start it and drive it until the coolant sensor gets warm, the O2 reads, X amount of time at cruise, X amount of time at idle and off idle, the EVAP purges, etc.
[/quote]

True.... True.... My Audi is the same way. It has a mysterious set of parameters that make up a full "drive cycle". Seems that if any of them are missing, the ECU won't log it as a cycle. With that car, starting it and driving it 4-5 miles usually makes a full cycle.
 
What is wrong with having the motor rev at startup anyway???
I assume the engineers at Toyota made it rev that hi for a reason.
 
Well I guess it I don't like it reving that high because it is very load when I crank it up in the garage!!!

does anybody ever have the this problem!!
When I have the AC on and it turns the compressor on at a stop light the idle goes way high and if you are not on the brakes hard it will jerk you forward and lamost run into the car in front of you.

Tim
 
[quote author=waldrtw link=board=2;threadid=6799;start=msg56091#msg56091 date=1067361503]
If any of you guys are planning on doing this, I do have one piece of advice. Those little phillips screws are very easy to strip!!!!
[/quote]
yes, I know :(.
 
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=6799;start=msg56154#msg56154 date=1067371451]
What is wrong with having the motor rev at startup anyway???
I assume the engineers at Toyota made it rev that hi for a reason.
[/quote]

Oil starvation.
 
[quote author=cruiserman link=board=2;threadid=6799;start=msg56162#msg56162 date=1067372031]
Oil starvation.
[/quote]

With 232k mi, oil starvation is not a problem :cheers:

[When I have the AC on and it turns the compressor on at a stop light the idle goes way high and if you are not on the brakes hard it will jerk you forward and lamost run into the car in front of you.]

Try having a FJ60, when the AC kicks on the motor revs way up there :eek: Driving at a slow speed is not posable ie; school zones or comming up to a ped cross walk and the AC kicks in :eek: :doh:
 
The o-ring fix is not likely to fix a high a/c idle. A/C idle is around 850, so o-rings won't limit travel enough. To fix a high a/c idle try cleaning the throttle body and IAC valve.
aaron
 
Yep, throttle body cleaning fixed an intermittent low idle for me, and also smoothed it out. I suspect the O ring fix would be more satisfying if it were done in conjunction with 15 mins with throttle body cleaner, an old toothbrush and a rage on the 'ol throttle valve and seat. I've never touched the IAC.

Doug
 
Since I'm new to my '96, how long before the idle returns to normal? I hate to stick the tranny in Reverse at a high rpm in the mornings. But as someone said before, it must be designed that way on purpose. I'm used to starting high and returning to normal, (or maybe a little higher idle speed) on other imports.
 
I believe the a/c idle speed controller is on the PS in the footwell. It's a non-descript blue box with a pot on it that you can adjust (never done it, but I recall someone saying the adjustment was pretty sensitive). If you're ramming into other cars when the a/c comes on, I think you need to adjust this as I'm sure that was not the intent of the designers. When my a/c cycles on, it only bumps up to about 900-1000 rpm and it certainly doesn't take off on me.

Tom
 
[quote author=landtoy80 link=board=2;threadid=6799;start=msg56154#msg56154 date=1067371451]
What is wrong with having the motor rev at startup anyway???
I assume the engineers at Toyota made it rev that hi for a reason.
[/quote]

The reason for the fast idle is to help heat the cat converters up faster and lower emissions. The hi idle shouldn't shorten life. The motor gets oil to the bearings in the same number of revolutions with a high start idle as a low one.

Cary

P.S.- The high idle still bugs me to.
 
It's not the high idle that's worrisome. It's that lovely rattle.
 
Ahh, tis the season to discuss high idle, do I hear the leaky sunroof season closing fast too.

I'm not sure I buy that an 1800 rpm warm up is a design feature but it seems to me that if it is, then you are defeating that design feature if you throw it in gear after 20 seconds. Surely if its designed to take 3 minutes to drop to a reasonable idle then you are supposed to let it idle for that long.

Do they high idle like this from new? If not, why not?
 
[quote author=semlin link=board=2;threadid=6799;start=msg56288#msg56288 date=1067386798]

Do they high idle like this from new? If not, why not?
[/quote]



Mine did......
 

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