Glad you are tackling this. I am looking at a ‘94 this week just north of Cincinnat. 287k miles and an Ohio truck all it’s life per the carfax. Used car dealer wants $9k but I will probably walk after seeing it. Good luck and subbed.
High mileage 3x locked 94 project
- Thread starter n54zach
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- Thread starter
- #22
Still stumped on the CDL issue. Pulled and tested the relay according to the FSM and a writeup at Troubleshooting the Toyota FJ80 Land Cruiser Center Diff Lock (CDL) - - https://www.pnwadventures.com/toyota-fj80-landcruiser-cdl-troubleshooting/, it passed every test. I was able to unlock the actuator by putting 9v directly to the pins on the connector, when I put it in 4lo again it locks the CDL as it should but when I put it back in Hi it stays locked. So far I have checked the 30a diff fuse, 10a gauge fuse, CDL relay, both switches on the transfer case, and CDL actuator and tcase ground all are confirmed to be in working order. My question is if I add a CDL switch to the dash and do a pin 7 mod, would I be able to cycle it manually assuming there is another fault somewhere in the system?
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There are 3 position switches on the transfer case, you indicated only replacing only 2.
It is the switch on the front controls the CDL dash light. Is your diagnostic based upon this light or have you actually determined the center is locked some other way?
2 switches are on the rear extension of transfer case, looking forward from the rear on the left side is the neutral position indicator, the one on the right side is the 4LOW position switch that initiates the locking of the CDL. That could be stuck on or have a wiring fault.
Adding a CDL dash switch is not going to solve the problem but may make debugging easier as you don't have to switch to low range. The pin 7 mod is not something to do when you're trying to solve a problem.
Without adding a dash switch you can do several debugging steps to eliminate faulty wiring, listening for relay sounds all without having to run the engine, just by unplugging the various connectors.
There are multiple threads that go through the process. Search is your friend. Logically proceed each function. Right now you appear to just be firing the parts canyon.
It is the switch on the front controls the CDL dash light. Is your diagnostic based upon this light or have you actually determined the center is locked some other way?
2 switches are on the rear extension of transfer case, looking forward from the rear on the left side is the neutral position indicator, the one on the right side is the 4LOW position switch that initiates the locking of the CDL. That could be stuck on or have a wiring fault.
Adding a CDL dash switch is not going to solve the problem but may make debugging easier as you don't have to switch to low range. The pin 7 mod is not something to do when you're trying to solve a problem.
Without adding a dash switch you can do several debugging steps to eliminate faulty wiring, listening for relay sounds all without having to run the engine, just by unplugging the various connectors.
There are multiple threads that go through the process. Search is your friend. Logically proceed each function. Right now you appear to just be firing the parts canyon.
- Thread starter
- #24
Ended up being the 4lo position switch that I previously "fixed"... it was stuck on. Replaced it with a new unit and CDL now functions as it should 
. Now onto exercising the front and rear lockers, time to find some dirt
. Now onto exercising the front and rear lockers, time to find some dirt
- Thread starter
- #25
Spoke too soon yesterday, the same issue persists as described above. Seem to have narrowed it down to a wiring issue. Voltage is simply not reaching pin 2 on the actuator. Confirmed relay works, can hear it clicking along with passing all continuity tests in the FSM. The issue lies in the harness between the relay and Tcase.
Started following the harness and found this in the area by the starter. It appears to be where the loom coming out of the firewall from the relay connects to the main engine harness, and one of the damaged wires is the same blue/ green from pin 4 that is supposed to supply power to the actuator to turn it off... fingers crossed this is the culprit
Started following the harness and found this in the area by the starter. It appears to be where the loom coming out of the firewall from the relay connects to the main engine harness, and one of the damaged wires is the same blue/ green from pin 4 that is supposed to supply power to the actuator to turn it off... fingers crossed this is the culprit
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- Thread starter
- #26
On the question of how to de-pin this style of connector, am I pushing up on the small tab underneath the male connector, then pulling the wire from behind?
Edit: you pull the center white connector lock out first, then depress the tabs underneath the pins to release
Edit: you pull the center white connector lock out first, then depress the tabs underneath the pins to release
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