High Mileage (320k) 1999 LC for $4500- What should I be looking for? (1 Viewer)

[theonlychicken]

Hi guys, so there's a land cruiser local to me listed for $4500. It has 320k miles, but is extremely clean. Looks to be no rust, seats have no rips, no major damage to the body, and paint even looks good. Seller replaced timing belt about 2 years ago. Car has been driven ~10k miles since. I have watched OTRAMM's video on what to look for when purchasing a 100 series, but was wondering if there are additional things I should be checking for in a high mileage vehicle. Also, what would be a fair offer to make if the car is as clean as it seems?

Thanks in advance for any reply!

 

[BullElk]

Sounds like you’re doing efficient homework. I suggest asking about other maintenance or part replacement that has been done, particularly the radiator, starter and alternator. If no red flags, decide the top dollar you’re willing to hand to him and be willing to walk away if he doesn’t agree. Then make a lower offer and play the game.

 

[ramangain]

original leather bottoms may have been replaced, especially 9n the drivers seat. Look carefully, ask Qs.

 

[fjcruising]

If maintenance is up to date and you feel like it runs well, I would shift my attention to the interior. There are some leaks that can develop in the driver footwell from clogged drain lines from the sunroof and those can lead to some rusted electronics under the steering wheel.

I would still budget to do some preventive stuff like diff oils, t-case oil, gearbox oil, steering fluid and definetly spark plugs if there is no record (surely they have been done at some point but it’s probably time again). Oh yeah, don’t forget the heater T’s. Probably $2k into it but you are left with a fully sorted 100 for under $6k if you can work him down.

 

[theonlychicken]

If maintenance is up to date and you feel like it runs well, I would shift my attention to the interior. There are some leaks that can develop in the driver footwell from clogged drain lines from the sunroof and those can lead to some rusted electronics under the steering wheel.

I would still budget to do some preventive stuff like diff oils, t-case oil, gearbox oil, steering fluid and definetly spark plugs if there is no record (surely they have been done at some point but it’s probably time again). Oh yeah, don’t forget the heater T’s. Probably $2k into it but you are left with a fully sorted 100 for under $6k if you can work him down.

Thank you, I'll definitely keep this in mind. A little off topic, but would it be weird to show up with like a notebook of notes lol. I've bought cars before but always just did basic checks, and since this has 320k miles I want to be very thorough.

 

[fjcruising]

Thank you, I'll definitely keep this in mind. A little off topic, but would it be weird to show up with like a notebook of notes lol. I've bought cars before but always just did basic checks, and since this has 320k miles I want to be very thorough.

not at all. It’s your money. These are very reliable trucks, I wouldn’t even consider anything else with over 300k on it.... but even the most reliable vehicle in the world is expensive to repair; it can still burn you but at least you’ll have done everything you can to make sure you are in good shape (probably won’t tho - loved 100’s just want to go)

 

[MJK]

Sounds like a potentially nice truck based on your description, and good on you for doing the homework.

Personally, I would focus on condition a lot more than price. A well maintained 300k rig will last you a long time. If it has years of deferred or cheapskate maintenance, your purchase could be a downpayment on a much bigger bill.

Take it for a drive and try EVERYTHING. It it has a button, use it. Squeaks/creaks/clunks? Are fluids clean and full? Brake pads have meat? Rotors have lips? Tires of good quality and not worn oddly? Any radiator or heater tee browning? Belts in good shape? Steering rack leaks? Get underneath it and look for leaks and/or perished rubber.

Records are important, but I also tend to evaluate the seller as person. Good tires or cheap tires tends to translate to parts you can't see, IMO. Are his other cars clean and well cared for? How long did he own it? Straight shooter or bullshitter?

You get the idea. If you are not comfortable evaluating these things, bring a friend who is or pay for a PPI.

 

[Travis Bickle]

Sounds like a good find, It will probably need a bunch of suspension rubber replaced but thats typical. Hopefully you can wrench, it will save you lots of $$$

 

[Octous]

Ball joints, suspension bushings, shocks, spring sag. Heater ts of course. Radiator.

Mine has 290k on it and I’ve had to do all those bits

 

[AlpineAccess]

Front end work is going to be needed so check if it's been done. Like said by other, rubber wears/dries out. The parts aren't bad, but the labor kills.

Fluids if they are dirty, otherwise drive it a bit and get to know the vehicle and then start doing fluid exchanges as needed.

You'll want to keep some $ in a repair fund.

I'd expect at that mileage a few things have already been done so the seller should have some maintenance records to show.

Fuel pump, steering rack, and starter are all likely replacements. CVs will have been done at some point whether boots and rebuild or all new. Tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, brakes at least 3 times, and wheel bearing repacks and adjustments at least 6 times.

Should have had diff/t case drain and refill 5+ times at least, brake fluid done 3-4 times, coolant swapped 3+ times, and power steering done at least 5 times.

Owner may not know all of this, but gives you an idea what kind of stuff can be skipped neglected. Vehicle is probably fine even if severely under maintained as long as the maintenance it did get was OEM parts and a knowledgeable technician.

 

[Ayune]

Ball joints, suspension bushings, shocks, spring sag. Heater ts of course. Radiator.

Mine has 290k on it and I’ve had to do all those bits

^^^ this. Rubber parts likely will need a refresh but that doesn’t keep you from driving & enjoying it. Just some annoying clunks maybe.

 

[D21FJ60]

FWIW, I bought my 99 with 294k on it last year, its at 301k now.
Rusty northern virginia truck.

I have a laundry list of things I need to do:
-Power steering hoses
-Alignment
-Steering rack
-Radiator
-Heater T
-Tensioner just started chirping
-AC has a leak
-Seats are thrashed
-Front end bits
-Hole in body
-Rusty Cross member
-Broken lug nut
-Wheel bearings
-Brakes
-Gas smell
-Exhaust smell
-Replace worn out torsion bars
-Tune up- belts, plugs, all fluids need serviced.
-Trans cooler line starting to rust

All that off the top of my head.
Still drives like a lazy boy on wheels.
I paid a little bit less than $4,500 for it, but that was early COVID market...

 

[D21FJ60]

Just realized I inadvertently bumped the thread and OP hasn't been on since October.
Guessing they didn't buy the cruiser.

 

[MongooseGA]

Something about 100s lately has reminded me of an adage from when I owned an air-cooled Porsche:

"They're all $40K cars. You either buy one for $10K and put $30K into it, or buy one for $35K and only need $5K into it."

There's a number for the 100, though I suspect it varies a good bit based on what one owner is willing to tolerate and what another may not (NVH, interior quality, maintenance items, etc).

IMO, these are $15K trucks (stock). Buy one for $5 and put $10K into it to get it completely right. Or, buy a nice one for $15k (current market premiums notwithstanding) and be done with it.

I bought a $15K truck and made it a $45k+ truck though, so don't do what I did.

 

[ramangain]

Something about 100s lately has reminded me of an adage from when I owned an air-cooled

I bought a $15K truck and made it a $45k+ truck though, so don't do what I did.

Twice. You are also short one air cooled Porsche, right?

 

[MongooseGA]

Twice. You are also short one air cooled Porsche, right?

Only the current truck ran that high, but the last one was probably around $15-20 into it.

I made out like a bandit when I sold the Porsche, though.


Worth mentioning, the $15K figure I used is provided someone is paying for some labor. A nice 100 can exist for under the $15K mark if you're doing at least some of it yourself.

 

[Mike NXP]

Offer him $4k and drive it home.