High EGT 3B turbo (1 Viewer)

[Isaacjohnstar]

I finally have an update to this thread. It's been awhile since I've been able to work on the 40.

I installed a Auber boost gauge on my turbo setup. Great gauge and it matches my EGT gauge. I took it for a quick test run to see what kind of boost i was getting. I was getting 3lbs in 4th gear hard to the floor. My EGT's climb very fast and I let off at 1150f. I don't run it that hot I was just testing my max boost numbers.

So I sprayed soapy water on the ducting to see if there were air leaks and there was nothing I could see. I checked the way I had wired shut the waste gate and the wire I used was allowing play in the waste gate. So I tightened it up and I got 5lbs of boost and the temps came down to 1100f max in 4th.

I wasn't happy with the wire I was using so I used some heavier gauge wire and I got 8lbs boost and the temps came down to 1030f and I can sustain 5th gear and 70 mph.

I'm very happy with the improvement but I think I the wire is not working so I'm going to fab up a bracket the will really lock it in to place. I will post up the results.

What boost numbers are normal for the 3B?

 

[amaurer]

I finally have an update to this thread. It's been awhile since I've been able to work on the 40.

I installed a Auber boost gauge on my turbo setup. Great gauge and it matches my EGT gauge. I took it for a quick test run to see what kind of boost i was getting. I was getting 3lbs in 4th gear hard to the floor. My EGT's climb very fast and I let off at 1150f. I don't run it that hot I was just testing my max boost numbers.

I have those gauges too! They're awesome!

I wasn't happy with the wire I was using so I used some heavier gauge wire and I got 8lbs boost and the temps came down to 1030f and I can sustain 5th gear and 70 mph.

I'm very happy with the improvement but I think I the wire is not working so I'm going to fab up a bracket the will really lock it in to place. I will post up the results.

What boost numbers are normal for the 3B?

That roughly what I see - about 8lbs for hard pulls with stock fueling. On exceptionally long pulls I'll juuuuust touch 1100F. You really need a good bracket, I don't like the sounds of this wire contraption you've got.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

That roughly what I see - about 8lbs for hard pulls with stock fueling. On exceptionally long pulls I'll juuuuust touch 1100F. You really need a good bracket, I don't like the sounds of this wire contraption you've got.

I don't like the wire contraption either lol. A bracket is on the list next.

I really didn't notice a huge power increase with adding the boost and getting my EGT down. It pretty much tops out on power at 70ish mph on a straight flat road. Is this normal? I have 4.11 gears with 33" tires and a H55 transmission. Should I be getting more power?

I turned up my fuel but have since turned it back down in a effort to lower the EGT before I fixed my waste gate.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Also how long is it ok to hold at 1000f EGT?

 

[amaurer]

Also how long is it ok to hold at 1000f EGT?

IMO - forever. Without a turbo and at highway speeds I'll see 1050-1100 continuously... hasn't killed it yet.

 

[eleblanc]

Also how long is it ok to hold at 1000f EGT?

before the turbo like i see in the picture....yep forever....In fact it is low....

On a side note, i never saw your picture, that is a awfull lot of weight hanging that far from the vibration of the engine. I doubt that fabricated pipe between manifold and turbo will last "forever"

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

before the turbo like i see in the picture....yep forever....In fact it is low....

On a side note, i never saw your picture, that is a awfull lot of weight hanging that far from the vibration of the engine. I doubt that fabricated pipe between manifold and turbo will last "forever"

Good to hear. I drove it some more today. About 20 minutes at highway speeds. The temps hold at about 940f going 65-70 mph depending on the grade. Boost at normal acceleration is around 7.2 max. Should I mess with the fuel?

The pics are old from when I first fabbed it up. I have since added a support bracket to the turbo from the engine block.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Bad news. This morning I started my 40 and it had trouble starting. It was 19f degrees but usually after 15 seconds of the glows plugs on it fires right up. I let it warm up for 10 min and headed out down the highway.
When I got up to speed and shifted in to 5th gear I felt a jerk and a loud screeching noise started from the turbo. I was only a mile or so way from home, so I turned around and parked it. It lost all boost and the temps shot through the roof. It wasn't dumping smoke or oil out the tail pipe.
I haven't had time today to take a look at it and won't till tomorrow but I suspect it will be toast. Any suggestions on what happened? The turbo is a used mistubishi and I'm wondering if I should replace it with the same or think about going anther route and making a new adapter plate for a different turbo.

At any route I'll have more info and pics tomorrow.

 

[cruiser_guy]

I'd try and find a Garrett turbo. Apparently the Japanese turbos are not the best but then maybe your turbo had a rough life before you got it too.
Sounds like it seized up or broke the shaft.
Check your oil lines to make sure your getting flow before you install the new turbo.

 

[gerg]

I know the exact sound you described. I too would bet the shaft broke. Take the intake hose off and see if the shaft on the compressor side is wonky. You can also disconect the charge pipe and watch the turbo compressor at idel and see if it spins by itself, which it should. If it doesn't, its either seized or broken. Either way your looking for a replacement.

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Ok so laying in bed after I posted this thread I was running the whole scenario through in my head.
If I recall from what I've heard when a turbo goes bad there is usually a lot of smoke from the exhaust from oil being pumped into the intake. This may or may not be true but it got me thinking. I hadn't even had time to look under the hood what if I had simply had to much boost for my ducting? I am still using the stock elbow from the intake to my ducting. I read where this had happened to another mud member. Had I over reacted to the noose and jerk when it happened?

At any rate I checked yesterday under the hood hoping for the best case and this is what I found:

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Only a loose hose clamp! Boy am I relieved!

 

[amaurer]

Does the turbo function properly after you refitted the pipe?

You need to sometimes be concerned about overspeeding the compressor when you run it open to atmosphere like that.

 

[moosecruiser]

Similar happened to me when I fit my homemade intercooler for the first time . Dang worm gear clamps !! Changed to 1/4-28 t bar clamps and perfect seal . Worth the few extra $$$$
Mike, moose

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Does the turbo function properly after you refitted the pipe?

You need to sometimes be concerned about overspeeding the compressor when you run it open to atmosphere like that.

Yeah I tested it tonight and it works good. I let off and pretty much idled home after it happened so I think it's ok

 

[Isaacjohnstar]

Similar happened to me when I fit my homemade intercooler for the first time . Dang worm gear clamps !! Changed to 1/4-28 t bar clamps and perfect seal . Worth the few extra $$$$
Mike, moose

I'll check those out thanks!

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Put some kind of bead on the end of that pipe so the hose and clamp have something to hold on to.

 

[jzilla]

x2 on the bead, I had to do that to my old set up, even with the good clamp it popped off the odd time.
Great news though!

 

[moosecruiser]

X3 on the bead . I tig'd a bead around the inlet and outlet on my home made intercooler . I also made a couple shallow groves round the tube with a large pipe cutter . Allows the clamp to catch on both the bead and the grove . Wall thickness allowing .
Mike, moose

 

[Dougal]

I don't see why you guys need a bead for that low boost. I'm running 24psi with no beads and they hold on fine with worm drive clamps.
But the outside of the pipe and the inside of the joiner need to be clean to grip. If they are oily you need huge clamping force to hold them together.