High beam yes, low beam no....my lighting is possessed... (1 Viewer)

[bosljeff]

I tried to find this specific issue already, and nothing matched.

For years, my high beam locked (as in the 'stick' locked fwd for constant HB use) feature actually resulted in total loss of lights from headlights. The temporary flash feature worked. So I never drove with high on.

The constant low beam feature has always worked.

The other night I finished driving, parked and called it a night.

Early the next morning I went to drive and my low beams didn't work, nor does my constant locked high beam, but the temp pull back flash feature does. No lows at all.

So as of now, luckily an 87 high beam is equivalent to modern cars' low beam. So for now I have to shove something in the column to lock back the temporary flash feature so I can drive with high beams constantly on.

Where to start? I'm savvy with the ability to do what I'm told with electronics, just not savvy to troubleshoot without a little guidance.


Thank you in advance for your time.

 

[Slow Left]

Have you seen this link yet (see below)? If not, you might peruse through it...

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/headlight-troubleshooting-thread.423985/

 

[Slow Left]

...and for the 'easy' win...see post #6 here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/high-beams-dont-work.620084/

EDIT: The Factor Service Manual (FSM) should provide instructions on how to remove that switch so that you have access to be able to clean those contacts on the switch...

 

[bosljeff]

It sounds like my simple starting point would be to clean it. A post matching my problem stated "it was dirty on the inside." Ideas? Dirty on the inside? What to do to clean it? In the column?

 

[Slow Left]

It sounds like my simple starting point would be to clean it. A post matching my problem stated "it was dirty on the inside." Ideas? Dirty on the inside? What to do to clean it? In the column?

I think he was referring to the contacts in the light switch being 'dirty'...and cleaned up the contacts with some sand paper...thereby removing the oxidized surface (which is an electrical insulator) to reveal metal (which is a conductor).

The switch is a physical actuator. When you flip the switch on, you are actually causing the metal contacts on either side of the switch to touch each other.
When they are touching (when the switch is 'ON'), current can flow through the switch and to the lights because the circuit is 'CLOSED'.
When they are not touching (when the switch is 'OFF'), current cannot flow through the switch...so the lights remain off because the circuit is 'OPEN'.

Dirty contacts can behave like the switch is 'OFF'...even though you have manually turned the switch to 'ON' position. It behaves like the switch is 'OFF' because the surface of the contacts of the switch have oxidized to the point where current cannot pass through in high enough quantity to power the lights.
To remove any possible oxidation, remove the switch, find the contacts and clean them with some sandpaper to reveal bare metal again.
Then reinstall the switch and see if the high beams work again.

Do you have the correct FSM with instructions how to remove that switch from the column?

 

[bosljeff]

Nope. I was about to start researching the step by step on how to do what you are referencing....

 

[Slow Left]

Nope. I was about to start researching the step by step on how to do what you are referencing....

Is this a 60 or 62? What year?

 

[bosljeff]

87 60

 

[Slow Left]

87 60

OK. This should be covered in Body Electrical chapter of the '1980 Chassis & Body' FSM...downloadable here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fsms.743084/

NOTE: for FJ60s manufactured after 4/1985, Toyota published a Supplement...which did include some changes to the wiring diagram. I don't see that Supplement available for download at the site I linked above, but I do not think that there were changes to the wiring of this light circuit (although I could be wrong).

 

[Slow Left]

It sounds like my simple starting point would be to clean it. A post matching my problem stated "it was dirty on the inside." Ideas? Dirty on the inside? What to do to clean it? In the column?

See:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/high-beam-lights-fixed-finally.110746/
and
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/high-beam-fix-writeup.345255/

 

[bosljeff]

So as I'm seeing it...it's the "combination switch" and to get to the parts to clean, it requires removal of steering wheel. Am I on track...?

 

[bosljeff]

That writeup is what I need. Now to see if I can caveman off my steering wheel without a puller.

 

[ff347]

Protect your face!

 

[bosljeff]

Feeling like a moron now. This should be easy. Off to work.

 

[Slow Left]

That writeup is what I need. Now to see if I can caveman off my steering wheel without a puller.

You shouldn't need a puller to remove the steering wheel. There are, however, some very 'difficult' philipps screws on the backside of the steering wheel that need to be backed out...and like to strip. It helps if you have JIS set of screw drivers...next best is a Milwaukee screw driver of the proper size.

Once you get those three screws out, should be able to access the nut on the front side of the steering wheel that holds it in place.

 

[bosljeff]

Ok. All high beams are working as designed. Low still doesn't come on when rotating 'on'. Is that going to be an internal part of the 'stick' itself?

 

[Slow Left]

Ok. All high beams are working as designed.

So you were able to clean up those contacts...?
...and as a result, the original problem with the high beams not working (when the switch is pushed to the constant 'ON' position) has been resolved...and the quick high beam feature (when the switch is pulled and held back to the temporary 'ON' position) continues to work correctly?

 

[bosljeff]

Yes. Contacts cleaned. All HB issues are resolved. Flash and locked. Only remaining issue is Low isn't ever on. What are the odds both low elements blew at the same time?

 

[Slow Left]

Low still doesn't come on when rotating 'on'. Is that going to be an internal part of the 'stick' itself?

So, if I understand correctly, after cleaning the switch contacts, the high beams now work correctly, but the low beams still do not work.

If this is so, then you might be dealing with two separate issues.

If cleaning the contacts restored the high beam function, but not the low beam function, I'm wondering if there is an additional problem in the low beam circuit...

 

[Slow Left]

Yes. Contacts cleaned. All HB issues are resolved. Flash and locked. Only remaining issue is Low isn't ever on. What are the odds both low elements blew at the same time?

OK. Thanks for the clarification.

Yeah, i think the low beam problem might be a separate issue to the original high beam problem.

Go back and read through that first thread I posted in post #2 above.

If I think of something, I post up.