High Altitude Jets (1 Viewer)

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Recently moved from Houston (sea level) to Idaho (4000’). Took the Cruiser out for its maiden Idaho drive today and haven’t re-tuned the carb. Could definitely smell it was running rich and there was some obvious protesting on the drive home. I do plan on leaning it out, but at what altitude should I consider putting in high altitude jets, and which ones? 98% of the time it’ll be at 4-5000’ elevation but I do plan on running her into the mountains come summertime.

Oh…and a couple glamor shots!
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First do a tune with existing jets, then check your plugs. What carb are you using? Ethanol has leaned out gas a bit since the 70s jetting so after doing a lean drop, you can then start to read your plugs. Also a good time to check vacuum and timing. If you haven't already, start by bumping up timing to 13-14 degrees for altitude prior to lean drop.

If you are living at about 4-5k feet, you don't want to rejet for short trips. The trick is to usually just raise idle/adjust mixture, use the choke or advance timing. Rejetting is too tedious for a weekend/week trip. These trucks will do just fine up to 13k with some minor tweaks.
 
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First do a tune with existing jets, then check your plugs. What carb are you using? Ethanol has leaned out gas a bit since the 70s jetting so after doing a lean drop, you can then start to read your plugs. Also a good time to check vacuum and timing. If you haven't already, start by bumping up timing to 13-14 degrees for altitude prior to lean drop.

If you aren't living about 4-5k feet, you don't want to rejet for short trips. The trick is to usually just raise idle/adjust mixture, use the choke or advance timing. Rejetting is too tedious for a weekend/week trip. These trucks will do just fine up to 13k with some minor tweaks.
Timing was my next question. I have it set at 10° advance. My idle is set at 650, so what idle do you higher altitude guys run?
 
Timing was my next question. I have it set at 10° advance. My idle is set at 650, so what idle do you higher altitude guys run?
You can keep the idle the same or bump it up a bit. Once you set the timing, mixture, and such, I usually set it to the stock rpm, so 690 then lean drop to ~650.
 
That was the trick I believe. Set timing to 13° and barely leaned it out. Made a quick trip and it seems to be much happier. Currently making 16.5” of vacuum.
 
Why does lack of street performance correlate to an overly rich mix - culprit is jets? The "protest," might just be its way of sending fuel, not burned, thru the exhaust. My guess is spark, dwell, stuck governor/centrifugal, points, rotor, etc. Or, vac leak.

Do you know what is the make of your carb?
 
I installed smaller than stock Mikuni motorcycle jets in my '76 FJ40, but I live at 7,240 feet. Timing is advanced only to about 11 degrees BTDC, I could probably advance it more. It does fine, even at 13,114 feet.

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I installed smaller than stock Mikuni motorcycle jets in my '76 FJ40, but I live at 7,240 feet. Timing is advanced only to about 11 degrees BTDC, I could probably advance it more. It does fine, even at 13,114 feet.

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Interesting. So the Mikuni thread pitch matched the stock Aisin threads? Which sizes did you go with?
 
Jet sizes I used in my latest (2019) carburetor rebuild:

primary main jet: 1.10, secondary main jet: 1.80, primary slow jet: 0.50, secondary slow jet: 0.50, power valve: 0.60
 
I installed smaller than stock Mikuni motorcycle jets in my '76 FJ40, but I live at 7,240 feet. Timing is advanced only to about 11 degrees BTDC, I could probably advance it more. It does fine, even at 13,114 feet.

View attachment 2844453

My 1980 40 has the factory stock High Altitude Compensation system; it does well at high elevations also. It adds another 6 degrees of ignition advance, and bleeds more air into the primary low-speed and high-speed circuits in the carb to lean it out. A lot of people (mistakenly) delete the HAC when doing a de-smog, so it might be possible to find the components from folks selling or giving away deleted smog equipment. You would also need a late 40 or 60-series dual-diaphragm advance distributor to be able to use the HAC advance.

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You would also need a late 40 or 60-series dual-diaphragm advance distributor to be able to use the HAC advance.
In case anyone's interested, I happen to have a refurbished FJ60 distributor almost ready to go out the door, it includes a good used dual diaphragm advancer.
 
Why does lack of street performance correlate to an overly rich mix - culprit is jets? The "protest," might just be its way of sending fuel, not burned, thru the exhaust. My guess is spark, dwell, stuck governor/centrifugal, points, rotor, etc. Or, vac leak.

Do you know what is the make of your carb?
I have a Trollhole carb. Original desmogged 2F that makes 20” of vacuum @ sea level and 155-160psi compression on all cylinders. In other words, super solid.

By ‘protest’ I meant it started to stumble and exhibited several exhaust ‘pops’ if it was allowed to get anywhere near idle. I honestly don’t think it had anything to do with the mixture, but perhaps the timing. I was running at 10° advance but as soon as I advanced it to 13° it smoothed right out. I pulled 3 of the spark plugs before doing anything and they were as clean as could be.
 

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