HID MINI H1 BRACKET AND PROJECTOR INSTALL GUIDE

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i agree with the ease of checking the level on the vehicle. three bolts, especially with the 100's mounting setup is easy. however, my lx is on jackstands. my garage floor is level, but i pulled in on an angle so perhaps not entirely level and the wall is a few feet away. i'll take a level to my engine bay and see where things stand, so to speak. i'm waiting on parts to complete some mechanical stuff on my lx, so why not get the retrofit out of the way;)

two quick questions.

my 04 lx has resisters for daytime running lights. if i install a 9005 led bulbs in the high beam location, and the bulbs are not designed for low voltage input/daytime running lights, will i destroy the led bulb or will i simply loose the daytime running lights feature? i know there's a discussion on a mod for daytime running lights, but i don't want to get into this particular mod at this time - too many repairs on my plate at the moment.

can you repost the pic or thread address that shows how much of the lx shroud needs to be dremeled away for a d2s 5.0 projector using luke111's brackets? i didn't take a measurement of the i.d. of the shroud before beginning work, so "remove 3mm" won't help. what i.d. is required will suffice. or just a good straight on pic of a finished d2s retrofit behind the oem shrouds. i may have my shrouds modified correctly already- i'm uncertain if i need more clearance to allow for the full range of adjustment provided by the factory adjusters.

thanks!
 

Luke111

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i agree with the ease of checking the level on the vehicle. three bolts, especially with the 100's mounting setup is easy. however, my lx is on jackstands. my garage floor is level, but i pulled in on an angle so perhaps not entirely level and the wall is a few feet away. i'll take a level to my engine bay and see where things stand, so to speak. i'm waiting on parts to complete some mechanical stuff on my lx, so why not get the retrofit out of the way;)

two quick questions.

my 04 lx has resisters for daytime running lights. if i install a 9005 led bulbs in the high beam location, and the bulbs are not designed for low voltage input/daytime running lights, will i destroy the led bulb or will i simply loose the daytime running lights feature? i know there's a discussion on a mod for daytime running lights, but i don't want to get into this particular mod at this time - too many repairs on my plate at the moment.

can you repost the pic or thread address that shows how much of the lx shroud needs to be dremeled away for a d2s 5.0 projector using luke111's brackets? i didn't take a measurement of the i.d. of the shroud before beginning work, so "remove 3mm" won't help. what i.d. is required will suffice. or just a good straight on pic of a finished d2s retrofit behind the oem shrouds. i may have my shrouds modified correctly already- i'm uncertain if i need more clearance to allow for the full range of adjustment provided by the factory adjusters.

thanks!
Give me a call...703-371-8494

I'm trying to limit question in this thread
 
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The lower edge could be level but the time it would take to design and set up some sort of jig would in my opinion be a waste of time and it would have to be dead on. If you’re just slightly off your cutoff could be tilted. Three bolts per light is all that’s needed an less then 5 minutes to install and you know your good. I’ve thought about setting up a jig because I’m constantly building lights but it only takes me ten minutes to install align and remove so I don’t see the need.
Yes, this and the very first paragraph on the first page is critical for a level projector. I adjusted mine up and down but now that they are in, the project is off by a degree. It is quite small and normally not noticeable until I put it on a level wall and see a slight variation. I assumed that the projectors are level but they are no necessarily and when you only have Halogen it is not as noticeable. When you have HID the intensity of light and the variation is somewhat noticeable. wish I had done the projector alignment when they did not have have the shrouds off. Not worth the hours to do it now but be Aware and follow the instructions. Thanks again for the continuing updates and information. I really love these lights.
 
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Yes, this and the very first paragraph on the first page is critical for a level projector. I adjusted mine up and down but now that they are in, the project is off by a degree. It is quite small and normally not noticeable until I put it on a level wall and see a slight variation. I assumed that the projectors are level but they are no necessarily and when you only have Halogen it is not as noticeable. When you have HID the intensity of light and the variation is somewhat noticeable. wish I had done the projector alignment when they did not have have the shrouds off. Not worth the hours to do it now but be Aware and follow the instructions. Thanks again for the continuing updates and information. I really love these lights.
i agree. i've retrofitted a few different vehicles. my first attempt was off and drove me nuts. i believe there are "level" points on the bottom of the lx housings, but doesn't guarantee the projectors will be level on the vehicle. checking level on the lx before resealing is highly recommended.

as to your level issue, can you address it by placing a washer (possibly in combination with some peel washers?) under either the inner or outer mounting bolts? i haven't tried this, so i don't know. depending on how much you're off, it may not take much. i'm also unsure how this will effect the body panel gaps. but again, i think we're talking about mm's if this is a workable solution. how much adjustment to the torsion bars corrects for one degree of level? - a little bit on each side. i'm not suggesting taking any action that would harm the suspension/handling setup. i'm simply asking if the adjustment to the ride height on each side is insignificant for your situation. please note, i'm a 100 series newbie. i purchased my lx. drove it into my garage. and have been working on it since.

for those not aware, they offer a morimoto micro d2s 5.0 now. i believe these projectors use the same bolt pattern and have the same lens diameter as the mini h1 8.0 (needs to be verified). perhaps luke111 knows if these can be used with his mini h1 brackets? d2s offers better bulb choices imho. rebased h1 bulbs are expensive.
 

Luke111

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expensive.
i agree. i've retrofitted a few different vehicles. my first attempt was off and drove me nuts. i believe there are "level" points on the bottom of the lx housings, but doesn't guarantee the projectors will be level on the vehicle. checking level on the lx before resealing is highly recommended.

as to your level issue, can you address it by placing a washer (possibly in combination with some peel washers?) under either the inner or outer mounting bolts? i haven't tried this, so i don't know. depending on how much you're off, it may not take much. i'm also unsure how this will effect the body panel gaps. but again, i think we're talking about mm's if this is a workable solution. how much adjustment to the torsion bars corrects for one degree of level? - a little bit on each side. i'm not suggesting taking any action that would harm the suspension/handling setup. i'm simply asking if the adjustment to the ride height on each side is insignificant for your situation. please note, i'm a 100 series newbie. i purchased my lx. drove it into my garage. and have been working on it since.

for those not aware, they offer a morimoto micro d2s 5.0 now. i believe these projectors use the same bolt pattern and have the same lens diameter as the mini h1 8.0 (needs to be verified). perhaps luke111 knows if these can be used with his mini h1 brackets? d2s offers better bulb choices imho. rebased h1 bulbs are expensive.
Looking at the specs they do appear to match the H1 mounting positions and lens diameter but moving to a D2S bulb opens up a whole new can of worms …what kind of cap are you gonna use and what kind of igniter are you’re going to use that works with the cap. I may tests these down the road but right now I don’t have any plans to do that
 
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Looking at the specs they do appear to match the H1 mounting positions and lens diameter but moving to a D2S bulb opens up a whole new can of worms …what kind of cap are you gonna use and what kind of igniter are you’re going to use that works with the cap. I may tests these down the road but right now I don’t have any plans to do that
if it were me, i'd use the straight d2s to amp adapters and run it straight back through the center of the factory cap with a grommet. actually, looking at it, i'd open up the factory wire holes a bit and build my own d2s adapter, ditching the h1 connections, and moving to 9006 or amp connectors as needed.
 

Luke111

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if it were me, i'd use the straight d2s to amp adapters and run it straight back through the center of the factory cap with a grommet. actually, looking at it, i'd open up the factory wire holes a bit and build my own d2s adapter, ditching the h1 connections, and moving to 9006 or amp connectors as needed.
Trying to keep things simple for the masses You may possess a different skill set and it’s really difficult to stuff a connector through a grommet … at least I haven’t figured out how to do that.
I think you should start you own headlights build thread for your quad setup which is off the subject of the bracket thread and the install guide. I will be happy to answer any questions in your thread but I’m getting daily PM’s and texts related to what you are working on

Regards

Lou
 
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Messages
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Trying to keep things simple for the masses You may possess a different skill set and it’s really difficult to stuff a connector through a grommet … at least I haven’t figured out how to do that.
I think you should start you own headlights build thread for your quad setup which is off the subject of the bracket thread and the install guide. I will be happy to answer any questions in your thread but I’m getting daily PM’s and texts related to what you are working on

Regards

Lou
lou,

genuinely, i'm not trying to create difficulties for you. you've installed quads on your lx and retrofitted your foglights. i've used your brackets. huge time saver. so i figured i was on topic. your brackets make quad retrofits easier. your foglight brackets make retrofitting the foglights much simpler than they otherwise would be. i'll drift away from this thread and simply add a post letting people know the outcome of what i'm attempting. it may not work.

to everyone on the fence, lou is correct. a sinlge retrofit will serve you extremely well. quads double the costs, triple the effort, and cause oncoming traffic to loose their minds. to some, the latter may be satisfying, but trust me, it gets old. and the police always give you a second look.

as to running a forum thread, like john snow, i know nothing.

regards,
~m~
 

swankstar

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installing the parts I purchased a while ago, the grommet for the bulb has four wires going through it, I don’t see these black and white wires with spade connectors in any of the guides. Any insight?

D69D8C70-5235-4731-8D01-98BF170E587A.jpeg


And this connection needs to cut wires? If it does I missed it in the thread, but with wire strippers in OP, I’m guessing I need to do my own connections here?

CC23F97E-33FC-496E-BD16-2F2F77DFC519.jpeg
 

Luke111

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installing the parts I purchased a while ago, the grommet for the bulb has four wires going through it, I don’t see these black and white wires with spade connectors in any of the guides. Any insight?

View attachment 3135628

And this connection needs to cut wires? If it does I missed it in the thread, but with wire strippers in OP, I’m guessing I need to do my own connections here?

View attachment 3135629
You can cut the wires with the spade connectors… TRS added those after I completed the guide. You may also run into clearance issue using the factory cap with the bulb wires now permanently attached. Page 3 post 45 this change is discussed and a link to a cap that works.

As for the OEM connection you have two choices cut the factory connector and splice a 9006 connector or cut the 9006 connector off the harness and splice the OEM connector.
Most of your question have been brought up and answered in this thread. Obviously I need to clean this up a little bit but I would say you might want to read through the entire guide to see if there any other concerns that you might have you have.
If you have any other questions or concerns call me for a faster reply
703-371-8494 I’m almost available
Lou
 
Last edited:

swankstar

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You can cut the wires with the spade connectors… TRS added those after I completed the guide. You may also run into clearance issue using the factory cap with the bulb wires now permanently attached. Page 3 post 45 this change is discussed and a link to a cap that works.

As for the OEM connection you have two choices cut the factory connector and splice a 9006 connector or cut the 9006 connector off the harness and splice the OEM connector.
Most of your question have been brought up and answered in this thread. Obviously I need to clean this up a little bit but I would say you might want to read through the entire guide to see if there any other concerns that you might have you have.
If you have any other questions or concerns call me for a faster reply
703-371-8494 I’m almost available
Lou

Definitely read through a few times last night, but was tired. Post 48 (? 45 is deleted) just talks about different cap, nothing about removing the wires. The OEM cap seems to work, I’ll have to re-inspect this morning.

Rereading this morning, I see discussions of which wires are hot and what to do with connectors, but no direct instruction of needing to swap connectors from you.

Thanks for answering these quickly, I appreciate it. After doing this, I will feel better about doing it to my 80.
 

swankstar

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You can cut the wires with the spade connectors… TRS added those after I completed the guide. You may also run into clearance issue using the factory cap with the bulb wires now permanently attached. Page 3 post 45 this change is discussed and a link to a cap that works.

As for the OEM connection you have two choices cut the factory connector and splice a 9006 connector or cut the 9006 connector off the harness and splice the OEM connector.
Most of your question have been brought up and answered in this thread. Obviously I need to clean this up a little bit but I would say you might want to read through the entire guide to see if there any other concerns that you might have you have.
If you have any other questions or concerns call me for a faster reply
703-371-8494 I’m almost available
Lou
Also, a question about alignment:

Do you recommend the cut off lines be adjusted for crown in the road? So slightly lower on the driver side if on a flat surface.
 

Luke111

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Also, a question about alignment:

Do you recommend the cut off lines be adjusted for crown in the road? So slightly lower on the driver side if on a flat surface.

The projectors are left hand drive so as you can see in the output shot it’s lower on the drivers side. I believe it’s so you’re less likely to blind on coming traffic

44156357-707C-4110-AFA7-2932B0C42260.jpeg
 

swankstar

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I would say there is definitely no need to use anything but the OEM back cap. You can see end of light is even with housing, cap sits back from that a bit.

CF038B93-41DD-405B-8D96-CE103F674AE8.jpeg
 

Luke111

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I would say there is definitely no need to use anything but the OEM back cap. You can see end of light is even with housing, cap sits back from that a bit.

View attachment 3135821
That might be true as long as you have threaded the bracket back for enough to have clearance for the projector with the shroud on.
 

swankstar

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That might be true as long as you have threaded the bracket back for enough to have clearance for the projector with the shroud on.
I see. I will have to check that. It has more to go and the adjusters are in the middle of range, so hoping that’s the case. Will report back and edit if not.

8827E74F-DA71-4964-BF4D-E7F7EEFCECD2.jpeg
 

Luke111

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I see. I will have to check that. It has more to go and the adjusters are in the middle of range, so hoping that’s the case. Will report back and edit if not.

View attachment 3135839
Hey, if it works for you that’s great. I found it to be close enough with the bulb end design to put pressure on the bulb which might cause a slight misalignment. You want zero pressure on the wires or bulb… if the bulb is not dead center on the cap after adjusting you’ll have pressure on the wires and bulb it’s that close.
 

swankstar

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Hey, if it works for you that’s great. I found it to be close enough with the bulb end design to put pressure on the bulb which might cause a slight misalignment. You want zero pressure on the wires or bulb… if the bulb is not dead center on the cap after adjusting you’ll have pressure on the wires and bulb it’s that close.
I will definitely keep a close eye on this and report back.
 

Luke111

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Do you have any pictures and/or advice of how you mounted the ballasts and wiring under the hood once everything is working?
I would mount the harness on the passenger side close to the air box . I use heavy duty Velcro for the ballast but I have to have easy access to plug in headlights I’m building. Some have made brackets and others have plates under the headlights to mount the ballast. Try Google or Mud search and I’m sure you’ll see a few options
 

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