HODGES
SILVER Star
FJinDFW = code for discount on TRDparts4u.com
Hi Lift Rock Rail Adapter (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dockbox
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
HungryMedic
That doesn't look too hard... What could go wrong?
They change it each year I thought... I know that one worked last year haven't tried yet
Call me crazy, but i disagree. Its not necessary at all.
All you need is a piece of rubber hose cut down one side and place it over the lifting jaw. You now have rubber on metal which increases the coefficient of static friction tremendously over metal on metal.
Also, ideally you want whatever you are lifting to be placed as close to the i-beam of the jack as possible. The further away from the i-beam, the more it causes a rotational torque on the jack to try and make the base slip out. You can get the rockrail or whatever far closer to the i-beam with just a piece of rubber than any of these adapters.
I've lifted from the rock rails with just the jack and a piece of heater hose slid over the lifting jaw at least 20 times to put the truck on jack stands without any issue.
Hi-lift base is a must have IMO. Not only for use with the hi-lift, but the base of the stock bottle jack also fits on the hi-lift base, so you can use it for the bottle jack as well.
All you need is a piece of rubber hose cut down one side and place it over the lifting jaw. You now have rubber on metal which increases the coefficient of static friction tremendously over metal on metal.
Also, ideally you want whatever you are lifting to be placed as close to the i-beam of the jack as possible. The further away from the i-beam, the more it causes a rotational torque on the jack to try and make the base slip out. You can get the rockrail or whatever far closer to the i-beam with just a piece of rubber than any of these adapters.
I've lifted from the rock rails with just the jack and a piece of heater hose slid over the lifting jaw at least 20 times to put the truck on jack stands without any issue.
Hi-lift base is a must have IMO. Not only for use with the hi-lift, but the base of the stock bottle jack also fits on the hi-lift base, so you can use it for the bottle jack as well.
Bang Bang
Age is a state of mind.
You're crazy........ 
the biggest mistake I C when people use a hi lift is they start out with it vertical so by the time they are at the height they desire the jack is at an angle not a good position.IMO.
always set the base under the vehicle at an estimated angle so when the height is reached your jack is as vertical as possible
and concur the base is a must!
always set the base under the vehicle at an estimated angle so when the height is reached your jack is as vertical as possible
and concur the base is a must!
Everyone should know that using a hi-lift is one of the most dangereous things you can do. I've adapted a policy of always having two people working together to change my wheels when I do that before trail riding. One person to work changing the wheels and one person to constantly monitor and work the hi-lift. I've had my truck want to roll off the jack so many times it's not funny.
Never leave your vehicle unattended on a hi-lift. Always try to have the vehicle with the parking brake on if you can. When on the trail at Superlift and having to do a valve stem replacement, I had my truck secured to another rig with the winch to hold it in place while we did the repair.
Just sayin'
Never leave your vehicle unattended on a hi-lift. Always try to have the vehicle with the parking brake on if you can. When on the trail at Superlift and having to do a valve stem replacement, I had my truck secured to another rig with the winch to hold it in place while we did the repair.
Just sayin'
Due to the PSA nature of this thread I feel this is necessary...
