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Hey Capt.

Discussion in 'SC- Upstate Cruisers' started by CruisinTiger, Jul 25, 2005.

  1. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    Hey Jim, when you mentioned removing the flange, is that the metal piece that attaches the pumpkin to the drive shaft. I looked under there this weekend and that is where it is leaking from. Is it a pretty simple task? Do I need gasket sealant or anything or the sort. Or is it that simple, take the flange off, pull out the old one and pop the new one back in and reattach the flange, and refill. Thanks Chuck
     
  2. clemson55

    clemson55

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    If its leaking where the drive shaft attaches to the pumpkin then thats what I was talking about. Everyone said it was a big pain in the arse. Thats partly why I just swapped 3rd members.
     
  3. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    Well I aint got an extra 3rd member sittin around
     
  4. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Supporting Vendor Moderator

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  5. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    Yeah that's where it is comin from.
     
  6. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    what axle ratio 4.11?

    I have an extra but it's practically brand new. I'd hate to part with it. Since my other diffs are crap.

    You have two options that I can think of.

    Take the diff flange off and use a speedy seal if the flange is worn.

    If not then find someone out there with a front diff with proper gear ratio that will sell one to you. A front will be better than a rear since it is used less. The only thing you have to swap from your old is the spacer to keep the c clips in.

    I got mine for $75 = shipping

    A speedy seal is 35$ I think.
     
  7. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    yeah I'm not lookin for a dif, I should be able to replace the seal with a little bit of elbow grease. after lookin at the sor link, it doesn't look to difficult to take apart and put back together.
     
  8. clemson55

    clemson55

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    If you want to do it chuck I'll try and be there to give you a hand/drink beer. Plus maybe then I'll be willing to take my spare apart and fix it.
     
  9. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    well maybe. The pinion is there and you just cannot shove it out. There is probably less than a 1/4 in gap to get something in behind the seal and yank it out.

    Remember to unstake and then restake the nut. THough they say to buy a new nut.
     
  10. Hard40

    Hard40

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    Chuck, If you get to the pinion seal replacement be mindful of the torque on the pinion nut. It torques at about 8,900 ft. lbs.

    I think it's 225 ft. lbs in the Toyota Manual. That's about as hard as you can pull with a 18 inch cheater bat on a 1/2 drive socket wrench.
     
  11. Capt. Jim

    Capt. Jim

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    Hey Chuck,

    Sorry, I was fishing for the past couple of days. Yes it's where thd pinion mates to the drive shaft. Hopefully, You're all done with this by now. As Alan said, Torque that nut tight, then be sure to stake it. (Hit it with a sharp blow on a chisel at the top rim of the nut where it aligns with the groove in the exposed end of the pinion.)

    Jim
     
  12. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    ok I did some research on this here on mud and Landtoy80 mentioned quite often staking it. This is where I am confused, why do I need to do this if it is a nut? Also I don't have a torque wrench, might be a job for Keith at Toyota.

    Cause I see on the SOR page marshall left, that on the years 84 and before there is a cotter pin that goes into the nut, but I don't see it on the 84 and up. So that is what confuses me on the staking it. Thanks

    Chuck
     
  13. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    trust me you will have to stake it. It's not hard.

    And JP has a torque wrench. I saw him using it as a hammer. :flipoff2:
     
  14. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    but what does staking do, I guess that's what I don't understand
     
  15. Capt. Jim

    Capt. Jim

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    Staking deforms the rim of the pinion nut into the groove cut into the pinion across the threads. Staking prevents the nut from backing out.

    You'll see the groove cut across the threads. Once you've tightened the nut down, use a small chisel/punch and hit the rim (lip) of the flange nut in a manner that will deform it into the groove.

    Jim (Stinking of fish......)
     
  16. CruisinTiger

    CruisinTiger

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    ok I think I understand now, so the nut will "dig" into the pinion once you stake it. Will I have to pry it out in order to back the nut off to replace the seal. Or will it just back off without messing up the threads.
     
  17. Hard40

    Hard40

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    Chuck, When you begin to back the nut off the staked part of the nut will reform back to its original shape or close enough not to bind. JP's torque wrench may not have a 225 ft. lb. setting. Thats pretty high for most wrenches so just follow my first post and as Jim & Troll said stake it or you may be wearing your drive shaft at 70 MPH. You don't want that, we don't want that...we would miss your dues in August!
     
  18. Trollhole

    Trollhole THC Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Or you can take the diff out and bring it to me and I'll fix it. You might be seeing me sooner than you think. ;)