Hesitation after replacing injector (2 Viewers)

[chuckd83]

I had a misfire and narrowed it down to #6 injector. I replaced it a used OEM along with servicing the other 5 injectors at injectorrx nearby my house.

The misfire is gone, but it hesitates under load.
After a cold start, it idles at ~1000 rpm, it used to idle at 1500 rpm after cold start.
After driving a while, it idles at 2000 rpm when put into park/neutral.
The shift set points don't seem to be right. It doesn't shift into 4th when I think it should (55 mph), but runs at ~3000 rpm.

I'm guessing I didn't put the throttle cables back correctly, but don't know the correct position. I adjusted the transmission throttle cable per the FSM (80-series Throttle Adjustment - Land Cruiser Tech from IH8MUD.com) and it didn't seem to help.

 

[fjbj40]

How’s the duct from air filter to TB?

 

[chuckd83]

How’s the duct from air filter to TB?

It’s brand new. I replaced it while doing this project.

 

[GSTMike]

Are you sure you don't have a vacuum leak?

 

[Tedward]

You reset the ecu? may make it run more better after a relearn

 

[fjbj40]

Vacuum leaks do usually cause issues once the engine is warmed up at at idle. Because the engine is enriched at start there is additional fuel to help hide this during the warm-up cycle.

There is a larger pressure differential between ambient pressure and the pressure in the induction system at idle vs open throttle, this is what causes this. Once you increase the throttle the problem can smooth out or be less noticeable because the pressure differential decreases, it becomes closer to ambient, in a naturally aspirated engine.

Can you hear any whistling from vacuum lines? The one that runs from the charcoal canister and the little short one it hook to under the intake is where I had a problem.

 

[chuckd83]

Vacuum leaks do usually cause issues once the engine is warmed up at at idle. Because the engine is enriched at start there is additional fuel to help hide this during the warm-up cycle.

There is a larger pressure differential between ambient pressure and the pressure in the induction system at idle vs open throttle, this is what causes this. Once you increase the throttle the problem can smooth out or be less noticeable because the pressure differential decreases, it becomes closer to ambient, in a naturally aspirated engine.

Can you hear any whistling from vacuum lines? The one that runs from the charcoal canister and the little short one it hook to under the intake is where I had a problem.

No, I don't hear any whistling. I did "upgrade" the charcoal canister with the Autozone VC120 to fix the tank pressure issue. I reused the lines. The one you're talking about is the "purge", right? They do look cracked so I'll replace those. They're just standard vacuum lines, I don't need fuel lines, right?

 

[fjbj40]

Correct, I am assuming you replaced the TB gasket and all fuel injector gaskets/cushions and o-rings?

 

[GSTMike]

Did you check all the vacuum lines to the solenoid type stuff on the underside of the intake manifold? there's a bunch of little lines in that mess there.

 

[Swbkrn2003]

Did you check all the vacuum lines to the solenoid type stuff on the underside of the intake manifold? there's a bunch of little lines in that mess there.

Yep I had idle issues and.oncr I changed those Wallah idles beautiful at 650rom

 

[chuckd83]

Did you check all the vacuum lines to the solenoid type stuff on the underside of the intake manifold? there's a bunch of little lines in that mess there.

When I had the intake manifold off, I replaced all of those lines with this silicone tubing.

Well, I don't know why the link isn't working. On amazon, it is called HPS HTSVH35-BLKx5.