Help with suspension upgrade (1 Viewer)

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Oct 10, 2016
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Location
Middle Tennessee
hi folks
I have a problem and need some help/advice
Some background first.
I have a 1999 Lexus LX470, with AHC suspension (Automatic Height Control)
Since the globes are shot and I put a lot more weight on it (bumpers, RR, winch) the AHC was slowing crying for retirement.
I bought an OME lift kit, springs, shocks and torsion bars and was planning on doing the swap myself.
I do most of the wrenching myself, but lately every time I touch something end up breaking something else, subtlety is not on my dictionary. Not to mention dealing with the rusted, seized parts, bolts and nuts.
So I started looking for quotes to take it to a shop to do the swap.
To my surprise, 4WheelParts, the new shop in Naperville, gave me a very good deal, fixed price no matter what and including alignment. They said that they will do it in one day.
I took it there on wednesday morning, wednesday around 5pm anxiously called the shop to see if it was ready and that's when I got the bad news.
They couldn't take the old torsion bars off the truck, they are seized with rust. At first I was glad that I didn't have to deal with the rust and was happy with my decision until thursday that I called again to check on the progress and they came back saying that will have to order new parts, torsion bar keys and torque arms, because they couldn't take them apart.
These parts are not something that the dealers or auto parts shops carry in stock, so we were looking at 3 to 4 days for the torsion bar keys and 4 to 5 weeks for the torque arms since there is no stock in USA and need to come from Europe. Not to mention around $500 in parts.
So I showed up there with a very angry face, looked at it and told them to replace the springs and shocks and leave the old torsion bars until I can figure out what to do. The truck is also my daily driver and I need it.
The OEM torsion bars are not designed to support the whole weight of the truck, they are there just to help the hydraulic shocks.
So here's my dilemma.
I'm 75% sure that I can separate those parts if I can take the torsion bar out of the truck and work in a bench, but in order to do that I'll have to cut the torsion bars. Once I cut the torsion bars, there no going back, and if I can't separate those parts I'll have my truck on jack stands for several weeks in my driveway.
The other option is order those parts on eBay, I found them in Saudi Arabia, and replace them altogether, which will put me back another few hundred dollars.

So, what do you guys think? Should I go for it or buy the new parts?
In the case that I cut the torsion bars and then can't take the parts out, could I get some help from you guys? Anybody with power tools, hydraulic press?
 
I vote rip the front end apart in the driveway without having any clue as to what you are doing. What's the fun of owning a 4x4 if evreything goes as planned and you don't lower the property value of your neighbors? Just go buy a hydro press at harbor freight, they are around $200. Same with power tools.
 
Start soaking everything, and I mean everything in PB blaster. I'm a bit disappointed that 4wheelparts couldn't just put the red wrench on it and get everything loose.

Hit every nut and bolt daily for a week, and keep driving it. Put some heat on them before you break them appart, and I bet they come loose.
 
I'm a bit disappointed that 4wheelparts couldn't just put the red wrench on it and get everything loose.

I don't think they are equipped with that tooling as it's not needed to put a light bar on a gayk or a yeti cooler mount in the bed of a brodozer.
 
I work by the, "tear it all apart using whatever means necessary then you are forced to find a solution" method.

Follow Joe's advice with the PB Blaster.
And heat.

Failure is not an option needs to be repeated over and over till you believe it.
 
Appreciate the advice, I'm tempted to go crazy and do it. I'll give a try first without cutting the torsion bars, worst case scenario is to bolt everything back.
The problem with tearing everything apart and noy being able to fix it is that the truck is also my daily driver.

BTW, my frustration with 4wp is not only that they couldn't separate the torsion bars, is also that they didn't replace the shocks because of a company policy, they cannot leave a hidraulic circuit open. So why the f#$*k you took the job then? Why waiting until friday 4:30 pm to tell me? They didn't align it either because the camber bolts were seized... do they realize that they open a shop in northern IL? What were they expecting? All brand new Jeeps?
 
Yes, that's what they expect.

Cause most serious wheelin guys fix their own s***.

And I know you are willing, and I understand your "only got one ride" dilemma.

But, yeah, that's what they expect.... wallet job jeeps.
 
Hit every nut and bolt daily for a week, and keep driving it. Put some heat on them before you break them appart, and I bet they come loose.

can't drive it much, they replaced the rear springs and leveled up the front, but couldn't align so the camber is off. Don't want to wear the tires unevenly. But I'm soaking it with PB Blaster
 
You need to get a second Toyota, then it's not a big deal to tear one down.
I have 3.
4 if you count the wife's car.
5 if you count the old Camry that gets used by the kids as needed.

And I'm low on count compared to most...
 
I made fun of 4wp, now it's time to defend them. You really can't get pissed that they don't know how to fix some oddball Land cruiser thats not exactly a common vehicle with some goofy ass overly complicated suspension system. Your options are take it to the dealer or learn how to fix it yourself.

4 Toyotas here so I'm about on par, however ones going to the scrapper any day now, so I'll be back on the light side.
 
I made fun of 4wp, now it's time to defend them. You really can't get pissed that they don't know how to fix some oddball Land cruiser thats not exactly a common vehicle with some goofy ass overly complicated suspension system. Your options are take it to the dealer or learn how to fix it yourself.

4 Toyotas here so I'm about on par, however ones going to the scrapper any day now, so I'll be back on the light side.

Not so sure about that, the guy I talked to on the counter knew exactly what it was. Anyway, why took them 3 days to realize that the truck had hidraulic suspension? I left specific instructions as how to drain it when dropped the truck, that should have been a hint.

I think that they just gave me a lame excuse because they found all the bolts rusted and realized the quote was too low
 
I think that they just gave me a lame excuse because they found all the bolts rusted and realized the quote was too low

I think that's more accurate.
 
Yeah, welcome...

Everything breaks, just plan for it. Jump in and start working on it. It isn't rocket science, last I checked, mechanics weren't genius's.

Buy the tools you need. I am willing to bet that if you took all money you have spent on labor, you could have bought all the tools you ever needed to do the job and you would have the knowledge and skills to use them by now. Its never to late to man up.

If you want to play this game you either have to teach yourself how to do it, or BEND OVER! The days of shops willing to work on rusty old junk are long gone when there is a train of beta males and new mini vans around the corner every Saturday morning paying $1500 for pads and rotors.

Also, look into what may happen when you cut that torsion bar...
 
I'm in the process of tracking all the necessary parts for the worst case scenario and will end up doing it myself as I usually do.
This time went with them because they gave me a really good price, so when considered the hours I need to put in, the rust I have to deal with and the mess I'll make on the driveway when all the suspension fluid pours out of the shocks, I thought it was a good idea.

Only thing I don't mess with is the timing belt, everything else I do it on my driveway.
 
Well then I guess this is a nice reminder of why you do your own work...

I recently was in a pinch, and had to drop my tundra at a shop for a new steering rack on my way to the airport. When all was said and done, I paid double the quote and it took twice as long. I smiled, signed, and left. I knew the penalty for joining the ranks of pussified dumb s*** mini van owners... I just took it.
 
just got an update from the dealer. the part that was on back order will be here on 5/21.
so i'll keep driving like this until I get that part, then i'll start the surgery.
 
Just a bit of info, if you have a oxy/ acetalyne torch and can heat the nut or female side red hot and then instantly cool it with water it will “shock” the bolt to the point it should turn loose rather easily. Learned this from a radiator repairman that works on a lot of old junk farm tractor s***.
 
I have done the above with a mapp gas torch as well. Works real good for conewashers and hub studs.
 
Only torch I have is a Zippo lighter. Anyway, there are fuel lines going really close, so I don't want to torch anything, and as I mentioned before, if I can't separate it, I'll cut it.
What's seized is the splined section of the TB into the bracket, not the bolts. Here's a picture from another post.

ddd.jpg
 
Mapp gas torch will run you about $25. I use it on at least 50% of my projects. Get one. It'll save your life.

Stick a piece of scrap metal between the fuel lines and where you're heating and just be conscious of where you're aiming the torch. You should be fine.


*disclaimer* not everything you read on the internet is true
 

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