Help with speaker wiring! (1 Viewer)

[SkiLyft]

Hey guys I know there has been a lot of talk about speakers and what not. I searched threads for this specific question but came up empty.

Anyways so I have a new HU installed and I just simply got the pioneer adaptor from crutchfield however I want to add a sub and the adaptor is currently using the 4 RCA ports that I need to wire in a sub.

What is the easiest way to free up the RCA ports?

I'm assuming one option is by-passing the JBL amp and running new wire straight to the speakers and have them powered by the HU.
-will this route work???

The other route would be to take the factory plug and cut the individual speaker wires out and them run them back to the head unit without going through the adaptor thus bi-passing the RCA wires at the end of the adaptor.

Is there another way that I am simply missing?!?

Thanks all



Sent from my iPhone, please embrace the typos

 

[fireball]

Not sure I understand what you're trying to do...

Are you using the OEM amp?
What HU do you have? Sounds like it doesn't have a sub pre-out.

 

[codertimt]

I was unclear when I read this first also, but I'm going to make a couple assumptions and go from there.

From signature it appears you have an AppRadio 3...correct?

From post, it sounds like you are using some Pioneer adapter to the factory amp. You mention JBL amp, and I know some models have factory JBL audio, so I'm assuming factory JBL amp. Even if it's an aftermarket JBL amp the solution is going to end up being the same...

Unfortunately Pioneer apparently felt people would not have the desire to run both rear speakers and a subwoofer via external amplifiers and so that set of RCA outputs is shared. So the solution will indeed be to run new speaker wire(at least down to amp location to splice into stock wiring) from the head unit and run at least the rear channel directly from the deck. Not sure about power/quality of stock amp versus the Pioneer, but you might decide it's perfectly adequate and run the front channels directly off the deck also...completely removing the need for the stock amp and making some room there for the new sub amp. Either way, you will be changing some settings on the head unit and making the rear channel RCA into the sub channel which will obviously go to your new sub amp...clear as mud?

My recommendation is to buy a nice 4 channel amp, running your fronts on one channel and the sub on the other channel bridged. Then run the rears off the deck. I personally also recommend buying a decent set of components for the front to compliment the new amp...and blend with the new sub...then fade about 50% to the front, let the rears just provide a little fill. Should make that fancy Pioneer head unit sound worlds better than it does currently...

 

[SkiLyft]

Are you using the OEM amp?
What HU do you have? Sounds like it doesn't have a sub pre-out.

Yes ideally i want my OEM amp to run the front and rear speakers. While using the RCA outputs on the back of my Pioneer Appradio 3 to control the sub. My dilemma is that the current adapter i'm using is occupying both of the sub pre-outs (they also can be used for speaker outs too).

Sorry if this is completely ambiguous; im trying to be specific =D and thank you for all the help.

After referencing Robs Guide here: http://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/05/land-cruiser-lx-470-stereo-wiring/

What if i tapped directly into pin 8/9 for the front speakers and connected them to the HU and did the same for pins 18/19. Shouldn't this in theory still use the OEM amp to power all speakers?

Then once this was done I should have access to my sub pre-outs again!?

Hope that makes a bit of sense...

Here is the picture from the guide for my pins reference.

 

[codertimt]

Even, though the factory radio was sending a signal to the factory amp via a normal looking wire, it was not an amplified speaker level signal. Yes, you will get sound if you splice the speaker level outputs into there, but it will not be good sound. Search for folks on the board complaining about noise after stereo installs...

Definitely just run directly off the head unit before trying to push the speaker level signal into the factory amp... As said before, the head unit is liable to sound as good or better than the factory amp anyway...factory systems are really nothing spectacular no matter what the manufacturer says.

 

[fireball]

You can either run the front or rear speakers off the head unit to free up the RCAs for the sub, or get a different HU that has 3 sets of pre-outs.

I can almost guarantee that your F&R speakers will sound better off the HU than the OEM amp. You can run new speaker wire from the back of the HU to the output of the OEM amp. It's a short run and fairly easy to wire. That'll free up your RCA for the sub, and allow the OEM amp to drive the OEM sub.

 

[SkiLyft]

You can run new speaker wire from the back of the HU to the output of the OEM amp.

Ahh perfect! So looks like ill be wiring from the HU to the output wires of the OEM amp (which is under the passenger seat). In theory this will prevent me from having to run new wire through the door grommets? yeah?

Also I haven't gotten to look at the OEM amp but I'm assuming that there is a tangled mess of output wires coming from the amp. Does anyone have or know of a schematic that will help me figure out which one is for the FR/FL and RR/RL speakers?

Thanks for the brainstorming guys

 

[codertimt]

Ahh perfect! So looks like ill be wiring from the HU to the output wires of the OEM amp (which is under the passenger seat). In theory this will prevent me from having to run new wire through the door grommets? yeah?

Also I haven't gotten to look at the OEM amp but I'm assuming that there is a tangled mess of output wires coming from the amp. Does anyone have or know of a schematic that will help me figure out which one is for the FR/FL and RR/RL speakers?

Thanks for the brainstorming guys

Yep, wires from HU to output harness on stock amp. That's exactly what I did for my rears...straight through the center console...

Scroll up in Rob's guide from where you took your screenshot for wire colors from the amp...

 

[SkiLyft]

Update:

Just bypassed the factory amp as per fireballs instructions and it works great now! I'm impressed with how the HU powers the factory speakers (seems to me that there is bit more richness to the sound quality vs the tin can sound from the factory amp).

I bypassed all 4 doors; once again freeing up all my pre-outs which is great news because I now get to add subs!!

I'm not quite sure what type if install I want to do... I really can't decide between something that can be easily removed vs a more permanent set up that will most likely sound better.

What is everyone running for subs/amps (not looking to wake the neighbors just looking for a nice rounded system that can hit hard when I want it!

Thanks

PS links to current write ups about installs are great as well as short pointers


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[SkiLyft]

Oh I also got rid of a very annoying hum/buzz in the background...


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[fireball]

Hi Chris,

I did some searching a few months back on LC stereo installs and didn't find a whole lot. A nice class-D 5 channel amp will fit under the pass seat and can power a pair of 8" subs or a single 10".

If you want to use the OEM sub location you better have deep pockets or be good with fiberglass work. No easy way to do it. Do you have a cargo or drawer system and are you using the 3rd row seats?
I'm stealing Rob's idea and putting a pair of 8s into my cargo system:
http://tlcfaq.com/main/2012/02/rear-drawer-storage-system/

You can build a nice simple box for a single 10 or a pair of 8s that will fit behind one of your 2nd row seats,and still allow you to use one of the 3rd row seats. You can also build a simple box that goes behind the 3rd row seats if needbe, although I'm not sure how much you'd give up by having them an additional few feet away. There really shouldn't be a big tradeoff b/w sounding good and easily removable.

 

[SkiLyft]

thanks for the reply.

I ended up going with a alpine class D mono block under the passengers seat. As well as a 12-incher in a sealed enclosure for the back. The sound is amazing, its nice and tight without being too boom-y. Also it really doesn't rattle the outside of the car (which was my goal so i don't attract any "thugs" haha).

I might switch up the enclosure as time goes by or possibly fab my own out of MDF in the future because im not too hyped about the black cube behind the 3rd row... but for now im very satisfied. =D

As far as wiring goes it was a piece of cake, Routed the Amp wire through the firewall port on the passengers side; mine had a nice little "nipple" in the center of the gasket that the amp wire fit perfectly into. Ran all wires through the console and under the carpet to the amp under the passengers seat. And finally used a massive zip tie to pass the wire under all the carpet to exit in the rear with like 5-6" extra to attach the sub.

Thanks everyone for the input on making this install a piece of cake. Im excited for others to post questions on this topic because now i can give some advice! (Its what i really love about this forum... read read read, ask a few questions... read some more... attempt install if you fail... read read read, ask more questions and by the time you complete the install you have become a good resource for others

 

[fireball]

Sounds good! Any pics of the amp and sub?

 

[SmoothLC]

Sounds like a nice set up (yes, pun intended).

Sorry I missed this earlier, but I have a 4 channel Alpine digital amp I would have parted for, for a reasonable price, but glad you got something that meets your needs.

Post some pics of your set up when you get a chance.

 

[SkiLyft]

Alright.. got around to posting some pictures. =D

If your guys are wondering... the mounting board is 7.75" X 13", when I was looking I made sure to get the thinnest piece of wood in order to make this as low as I possibly could.

Additionally yes the factory amp is still in there. This is mainly due to the fact that I haven't gotten around to splicing the correct wires to power the HU this is next on my list. Once that is complete I think I'm going to start hunting for a nice 5 channel amp to power the rest of the speakers (which should fit right where the factory amp is).

I currently have the left 3rd row seat removed so I might move the place where my sub wires exit so that it can fit right behind the 2nd row. But we shall see...

update: while writing this I decided to switch up the location of the wires to the 2nd row. Not sure which location I like haha...

Anyways that's it for now.

 

[SkiLyft]

more pics.

 

[fireball]

Amp mounting looks really good! Those class Ds are super nice!

Have you played around with the position of the sub? I'd bet at least a nickel that it'll sound a lot better firing back against the tailgate rather than up.

Also can't tell if you've got it mounted in any way, but that's a 20+# projectile that will be flying throughout your interior should you get into an accident. Lock it down!

 

[nosquids]

I have a 99 LX the factory Nakamichi amp has 4 plugs going into it. All my searches come up with wiring for an amp with 2 plugs going in. Replacing the HU and factory amp. Any wiring info for this 4 plug setup would be appreciated.

 

[PabloCruise]

I have a 99 LX the factory Nakamichi amp has 4 plugs going into it. All my searches come up with wiring for an amp with 2 plugs going in. Replacing the HU and factory amp. Any wiring info for this 4 plug setup would be appreciated.

I am so glad you asked! I just got a '99 LX w/ Nakamichi as well and have been trying to learn about my system to design an upgrade. As far as I can tell, we have the 6" sub in the rear. I would like to design a well thought out combo of amplifier (5 channel) and head unit. I need to keep the sub in the factory location - no room for an external unit with our kid and dog, etc...

I have been reading up in here: Replacing Your Audio System: Overview and also just started i here: Stereo FAQ