Help With Rear Disc Brakes

[peytonkristen]

I am replacing my rear brake pads and it looks like I need to have my rotors turned. From the threads on here and my FSM it seems the disc should just slide off after the caliper is removed. Is that correct? If it is, mine must be stuck. I just didn't want to start trying to break it free without some reassurance from everyone here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

SC

 

[Doc]

IIRC, there are two screws that need to be removed first. They sit on the face of the disc.... ???

 

[Brentbba]

There's a hole in the rotor. Rotate that to 6 o'clock. Inside at that position you'll see/feel a small cog. You will need to use a small screw driver to rotate that cog ( can't remember which direction). One way will tighten and the other way (duh) will loosen your emergency brake pads that sit inside the rotor. The tightness/grabbing is just the e-brake pads grabbing the inside of the rotor.

 

[Doc]

There's a hole in the rotor. Rotate that to 6 o'clock. Inside at that position you'll see/feel a small cog. You will need to use a small screw driver to rotate that cog ( can't remember which direction). One way will tighten and the other way (duh) will loosen your emergency brake pads that sit inside the rotor. The tightness/grabbing is just the e-brake pads grabbing the inside of the rotor.

Oh yeah.... that. What he said.

 

[Brentbba]

Oh yeah.... that. What he said.

Forgot to add that when you're finished and put the rotor back on, tighten the cog all the way and then back it off a turn or two so you don't have it grabbing all the time.

If you live in a rusty area after you back off the e-brake pads you may need to use a couple of bolts (wish I could remember the size) in the threaded holes to 'help' the rotor back off and get unstuck. Here in SoCal all I had to do was grab and pull and they came right off.

 

[peytonkristen]

IIRC, there are two screws that need to be removed first. They sit on the face of the disc.... ???

There's a hole in the rotor. Rotate that to 6 o'clock. Inside at that position you'll see/feel a small cog. You will need to use a small screw driver to rotate that cog ( can't remember which direction). One way will tighten and the other way (duh) will loosen your emergency brake pads that sit inside the rotor. The tightness/grabbing is just the e-brake pads grabbing the inside of the rotor.

I removed the rubber plug on the rotor and can't feel a cog inside @ 6 o'clock?

Also the two screws? I have two threaded holes but no screws on the face of the rotor.

I have sprayed around the hub with some PB Blaster and got pretty rough with it but still can't get it to budge. Can anyone tell me what I'm missing? I'm kinda stuck and frustrated now. The FSM isn't real clear on this..........HELP!

 

[Heffenoche]

I removed the rubber plug on the rotor and can't feel a cog inside @ 6 o'clock?

Also the two screws? I have two threaded holes but no screws on the face of the rotor.

I have sprayed around the hub with some PB Blaster and got pretty rough with it but still can't get it to budge. Can anyone tell me what I'm missing? I'm kinda stuck and frustrated now. The FSM isn't real clear on this..........HELP!

As said above put the hole at 6:00 then try shining a flashlight in there to see the cog, it may be a little left or right. That's what I had to do. If I remember correctly you have to rotate the cog downward to loosen.

If you have bolts the correct size and pitch you can screw those into the hole to help push the disc off.

 

[snowwolf]

I have a funny feeling when I done it, it was rotate the cog down on one side to loosen and on the other side, was to rotate up.

But cant remember what side was up or down...sorry, but just be aware that it might be different, but the rotors will NOT come off unless you loosen the brake cogs off.

 

[peytonkristen]

As said above put the hole at 6:00 then try shining a flashlight in there to see the cog, it may be a little left or right. That's what I had to do. If I remember correctly you have to rotate the cog downward to loosen.

If you have bolts the correct size and pitch you can screw those into the hole to help push the disc off.

I have a funny feeling when I done it, it was rotate the cog down on one side to loosen and on the other side, was to rotate up.

But cant remember what side was up or down...sorry, but just be aware that it might be different, but the rotors will NOT come off unless you loosen the brake cogs off.

Thanks for the help guys. Getting ready to give it another try. Does anyone know what size bolt fits the threaded holes? It looked like a 7mm but it was just barely too small. I think an 8mm would be too big though. Going to try to locate the cog. Thanks again.

 

[breathed]

Shine a light in the hole and locate the parking brake cog. Use a straight blade screwdriver to rotate the cog. Which way to rotate the cog will have to be determined through trial and error.

Take off two of your exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and screw them into the two threaded holes in the rear disk to push the rotor off the hub.

Write down which rotational direction loosens the parking break and post it up here.

Drink a beer.

 

[peytonkristen]

Shine a light in the hole and locate the parking brake cog. Use a straight blade screwdriver to rotate the cog. Which way to rotate the cog will have to be determined through trial and error.

Take off two of your exhaust manifold heat shield bolts and screw them into the two threaded holes in the rear disk to push the rotor off the hub.

Write down which rotational direction loosens the parking break and post it up here.

Drink a beer.

OK I just gotta say that this IH8MUD thing and all the land cruiser guys are incredible!

Breathed Your advice was exactly what I was needing and maybe now I can contribute a little to this site.


As for the parking brake cog: It is shown in the FSM as the "adjuster" in the Rear Brake section under parking brake. With a small flashlight you can actually see the cog through the access hole once the rubber plug is removed and the hole is at the bottom or 6 o'clock position. To pull off the rotor........... this cog has to be rotated downward with the screwdriver to loosen it, on the DS and PS.

Once I got it loosened, I took two bolts off of the manifold heat shield as suggested earlier. I inserted these into the threaded holes on the face of the rotor and tightened them. As you tighten them the rotor will begin to loosen. I had to scavenge some longer bolts off of my FJ40 to get the rotor completely off but you get the idea. I think the bolts are 8mm and need to be about 1" long, they require a 12mm socket. My rotors had not been removed in a very long time so they were really stuck.

Knowing all of this information it took less than 10 minutes to remove the other side.

And Breathed......I drank a beer before I got started using your insrtuctions....... I think it helped!!!

Oh....then I drank another one after I got finished....as you instructed. Off to have my rotors turned in the morning..

Thanks again for everyones help!

SC

 

[reffug]

funny but when I drink beer nothing much gets accomplished on my truck.......................

 

[Brentbba]

OK I just gotta say that this IH8MUD thing and all the land cruiser guys are incredible!

Breathed Your advice was exactly what I was needing and maybe now I can contribute a little to this site.


As for the parking brake cog: It is shown in the FSM as the "adjuster" in the Rear Brake section under parking brake. With a small flashlight you can actually see the cog through the access hole once the rubber plug is removed and the hole is at the bottom or 6 o'clock position. To pull off the rotor........... this cog has to be rotated downward with the screwdriver to loosen it, on the DS and PS.

Once I got it loosened, I took two bolts off of the manifold heat shield as suggested earlier. I inserted these into the threaded holes on the face of the rotor and tightened them. As you tighten them the rotor will begin to loosen. I had to scavenge some longer bolts off of my FJ40 to get the rotor completely off but you get the idea. I think the bolts are 8mm and need to be about 1" long, they require a 12mm socket. My rotors had not been removed in a very long time so they were really stuck.

Knowing all of this information it took less than 10 minutes to remove the other side.

And Breathed......I drank a beer before I got started using your insrtuctions....... I think it helped!!!

Oh....then I drank another one after I got finished....as you instructed. Off to have my rotors turned in the morning..

Thanks again for everyones help!

SC

Congrats on a job well done!