Help with Hell for Stout Spring installation (1 Viewer)

[mogge]

Hey All,

We have been wrestling with the CCOT HFS spring installation. We started on the passenger side front. We cant get the pin on top of the leaf spring lined up with the hole in the spring leaf axle plate, its about 1/2 inch off. We ensured the spring is being installed with the long end toward the front. It seems in all the pictures/ diagrams at CCOT that the shackle is supposed to be pushed forward at the bottom where the spring attaches ( which would give us the 1/2 inch we need to line the pin up on the top of the spring to mate with the axle). We cant seem to get the shackle to move forward at the bottom. It is "stuck" in a 90 degree moment in a perpendicular position in relation to the shackle perch. We have tried using two jacks to force the leaf spring forward in different positions under the leaf spring, tried a bottle jack pushing against the shackle and the axle. No luck, wont budge. Has anyone else been through this and may have a suggestion? Thanks!

 

[macdaddy59]

When i did mine I left both sides very loose until all the pins were installed and then tightened them. I also left the U bolts somewhat loose so I could adjust everything and install the pins

 

[mogge]

When i did mine I left both sides very loose until all the pins were installed and then tightened them. I also left the U bolts somewhat loose so I could adjust everything and install the pins

Thanks for the reply. Did you do both front ends at once? Should I undo the driver's side as well and do both at the same time? We thought about that, but would still have the drive shaft to deal with, but it would give us wiggle room.

So I did the shackles and pin first on one side front as per their instructions. Are you saying you mated the axle and pin on the springs, then did the pins and shackles on both sides before mating and tightening? I have no nuts on the bolts on the pins and shackles on the passenger's side. They are "free floating" but aren't giving any lee way.

 

[HannaMagi]

I used a cargo strap to pull the axle back to drop the pin in the hole.

 

[Green Bean]

I used a cargo strap to pull the axle back to drop the pin in the hole.

You might want to take a look at how Ben did his on the 3rd try.

 

[mogge]

Thank you so much for this. Although it didn't respond to my question with specifics, it made me feel so good that I am not alone in my fevered endeavor to do this. His frustration mirrors mine. I laughed in bloody knuckled solidarity. I feel vindicated in the battle to add new leaf springs to my older than crap FJ40. Now again, ( and the cargo strap suggestion is great), but I have to move the springs forward and have nothing to grasp to. Should I undo both front springs?

 

[B y r o n]

Support the frame with jack stands. Remove the U-bolts from both sides. Replace both springs then settle the axle housing onto the pins. Install U-bolts and tighten. Set it on the ground and then tighten the shackles and pins. Your new springs are longer so pins will be in different position which is why you can't get one side on with the other side still bolted in place. Don't worry about shackle angle, once vehicle weight is on the springs it will change and continue to change as the springs settle in.

 

[Dizzy]

If you undo both springs, then be ready to deal with a kinda short flex brake line.

I did the opposite on my truck CCOT HFS to factory springs. I had to pull the axle in, on the back of the truck - kinda a unique thing when you change the ride height on a leaf spring. I used a hand winch. Whatever you do make sure that it doesn't compromise the vehicle's load on the jack stands.

I did the spring pins loose first, then the axle to spring center pin (loose), then the shackle (not easy), then button the rest up, then next spring.

 

[mogge]

Amen brothers. This is what I was looking for. Any other suggestions welcome. I promise to rewrite the install of these springs with pics so the next guy will have more info. The CCOT directions were woefully lacking. I can add so far in my weekend loosing progress?, that they give you 8 thick collared bushings and 14 thin collared bushings. The thick collared bushings are for the shackles to spring bolts, the others are for the spring hangers/perches on the frame.

 

[B y r o n]

You're not the first to have issues when changing springs. I didn't get any instructions when I purchased my OME springs. Not only did I install the front springs backward because I thought the arrow on the spring was to point to the front, only to find out they point to the fixed hanger, but I also had to fab bushings for the pins that were smaller than the factory pins and swam in the axle perch holes.

 

[graham5david]

As already suggested. Support the truck with Jack stands. Remove both leafs from the front. I Support the axle with smaller stands. Attach the leafs to the frame side first. Then position the axle on the leafs. I use a good floor jack to lift axle off the stands and a strap or big pry bar to position it. Then secure with u bolts. Then jack the axle up and secure the leafs to the shackles. Then start on the back.

 

[peesalot]

yup, get supported on frame and move axle accordingy

 

[Green Bean]

yup, get supported on frame and move axle accordingy

Mogge: Were you successful in getting your new suspension installed? Any photos of finished product?

 

[mogge]

Halfway there. Spent most of yesterday afternoon cutting ubolts, shackles and pins on the drivers side front with an angle grinder. Both the left and right side shackles and hinges were completely melded together and the ubolt nuts were all smashed and rusted. Big trick there was cutting the ubolts with an angle grinder and not hitting the brakes lines.

I was eyeballing it, hopefully the new shackle and greaseable bolt on the drivers side will clear the Saginaw power steering unit, it will be close. I can't wait to see what this thing will ride like with an actual articulating suspension and new tires. Probably can stop biting down on a rubber block when I drive. I hope to be done this weekend with the suspension.. I am praying the backs are easer than the fronts.

Just got my tires/wheels finished. I sandblasted the stock steels, painted them and mounted some 33X10.5X15 General Grabber X3 M/T. I am painting as I go C.A.R.C. substitute Desert Tan, new fenders, re did the hood and hinges. New radiator, hose belts and engine stuff.

 

[Green Bean]

Halfway there. Spent most of yesterday afternoon cutting ubolts, shackles and pins on the drivers side front with an angle grinder. Both the left and right side shackles and hinges were completely melded together and the ubolt nuts were all smashed and rusted. Big trick there was cutting the ubolts with an angle grinder and not hitting the brakes lines.

I was eyeballing it, hopefully the new shackle and greaseable bolt on the drivers side will clear the Saginaw power steering unit, it will be close. I can't wait to see what this thing will ride like with an actual articulating suspension and new tires. Probably can stop biting down on a rubber block when I drive. I hope to be done this weekend with the suspension.. I am praying the backs are easer than the fronts.

Just got my tires/wheels finished. I sandblasted the stock steels, painted them and mounted some 33X10.5X15 General Grabber X3 M/T. I am painting as I go C.A.R.C. substitute Desert Tan, new fenders, re did the hood and hinges. New radiator, hose belts and engine stuff.

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Looks amazing. Nothing is ever easy. These Land Cruisers sure know how to put up a good fight. Keep at it and you will be back on the road before you know it.

 

[peesalot]

The tip of the shackle bolt will come just to the casting on the saginaw, might have to shorten it a smidge.

 

[peesalot]

Oh, and build yourself a shroud for that fan

 

[mogge]

Oh, and build yourself a shroud for that fan

I was looking at the BTB/manafrelv one when I put the new 4 row core radiator in. I know you can probably make one, but it would be ugly after I was done with it. Does anyone has a pattern? I am running a 17inch fan so the blades clear the bottom hose. The thing I am concerned about on the BTB one is the flat parts around the shroud opening right on the radiator, blocking cooling. Does anyone have one and are there any negatives on that design?

FJ40 FJ45 Fan Shroud V8 Conversion 1958, 1959, 1960, 1961, 1962, 1963, 1964, 1965, 1966, 1967, 1968, 1969, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977, 1978, 1979, 1980, 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984 - Landcruiser Parts

THIS FAN SHROUD BOLTS DIRECTLY TO THE FACTORY RADIATOR HOUSING SUPPORT ON FJ40 LAND CRUISERS EARLY THRU 1980. IT HAS A 21" DIAMETER RING WITH A 3" DEPTH, ALLOWING UP TO 19" FAN INSTALLATIONS.

manafrelv.com

 

[fjwagon]

I second the cargo/ratchet strap in conjuction with the floor jack approach. It's a lot of work but after a couple installations you will get good at it. I even used a pipe clap on one of first installations. By the third time around I had acetylene torch for faster removal. Just be careful. Safety comes first. But it's still a lot of work.

 

[graham5david]

On my Saginaw I just loosened the bolts that secure the box. Then trimmed the top of the shackle down a quarter inch or so. Then installed the shackle and bolts. Then tightened up the Saginaw box. It was pretty simple and still leaves plenty of metal on the shackle.