help with header/manifold (1 Viewer)

[poldo]

Hey wise people .. I need help with replacing the headers on my 78' FJ40 right now there is a set of 3 into 1 in poor shape

I am replacing it with a 6 into 1 I got on ebay for a good price derusted and high temp coated.. they look new
however since I have never done this kind of job I am not sure if I should remove the carb and intake to access the bolts of the header..
so the question is simple which is the best way to do the job ??

thanks

 

[elblat]

You could prolly swap it out with the carb/intake in place (you can get to all the studs/bolts) but...

I would pull it all and put a new gasket on there, the old one is compressed to the shape of the old header and will prolly leak with the new one. Then you can inpect everything and make sure it's flat and studs are happy etc.

 

[ken_79-fj40]

I got really good at this a few years ago when I kept on rewelding cracks in an old header. I was always able to get the whole thing out of there without taking the carb off. My truck is desmogged with a weber and a cable linkage, which makes this a lot easier. Definately use a good quality gasket, and I use the copper style collector gaskets to the exhaust. Another thing I have learned after doing this job several times is to change as many bolts to a stud and nut arrangement as you can. They help you line it up easier, and you can torque them down better. I stripped out a few holes in the side of my head, and had to retap a few and run larger studs. One of them is enormous, like 9/16. So big I had to grind the header and manifold to make it work. Very hack, but it's been trouble free for 2 years. But If I had gone to studs the first time I would have been golden.

 

[eithegreat]

I'd just order a felpro gasket (they actually seal well) into your nearest autozone, and remove both manifolds, clean your carb, and woola, shouldn't have any troubles in that area for quite some time.

 

[1973Guppie]

Use a quality gasket, recheck the torque on the bolts every so often, more often right after install. When I had an F I always had problems with exhaust leaks until I was able to tighten down both the intake and header evenly. What I mean by this is check the thickness of the intake face and the header face. One is probably thicker than the other. If they are different thicknesses on the flanges I would take them to someone who can mill them to they both are the same exact thickness. A long time ago I was able to purchase these special nuts from a toyota dealer. If I remember correctly they were somewhat oval shaped but soft metal and when you install them they form to the stud and thus don't back out. They worked great. You may want to see if they are still available.

Noah

 

[poldo]

thanks all for your help... I am tackling the job right now, removing the header/intake was a PITA major PITA however I got it out and my knuckles are still intact and without removing the carb(holley dbl) which by the way is desmogged
how well I don't know because I never got to drive this fj I am in the middle of a partial resto , I can say that .
I have the stainless steel gasket, I was looking for a set of studs but I couldn't find the size locally so I am going to reuse the original which by the way came out easily. I am assuming that the installation will be a PITA x2
I already drilled through my index finger last week with a 3/8" drill bit
painful and unconfortable to hold a wrench in thight places..

thanks again

 

[poldo]

well it actually worked out without any phisical damage, it is mounted but what a pain
the only problem is that now my carb "holley 500" is stuck to full throttle now I have to figure out what I did when I cleaned the carb and intake..

thanks all

 

[NJFJ40]

Maybe too late but I seem to recall most wise old sages here suggesting 2 OEM gaskets when you are running headers. I had stock exhaust manifold so only used one gasket - but think 2 are the norm for headers.

AndrewT

 

[elblat]

I had a problem with my one-piece headers until I realized that the distance from the nut contacting surface to the head was different on the header than the intake. I ended up fudging it with washers/spacers somehow, but it works well with one gasket now. Two gaskets would have been a lot easier. Next time...

Good info.

 

[poldo]

I have read the 2 gasket remedy but normally it should be sealed well even with one quality gasket (which I have) now I have another problem .. the carb (holley dbbl 500) seems to be stuck at full throttle.. great

any ideas? a stuck needle perhaps ? I have cleaned the carb intake and turned it upside down several times so can that be the problem?

tx

 

[Toyo FJ40]

Is the throttle plate stuck open? Did all the vacuum lines go back on?

 

[poldo]

Is the throttle plate stuck open? Did all the vacuum lines go back on?

1 problem solved 1 new one
the plate was stuck because I mounted the throttle cable plate in the wrong place .... duh

now.... the cable was sticking as well so since it was plenty long I decided to cut some and remount it , it is now free and smooth however the gas pedal now
only travel 40/50% then you need to push really hard to go the rest of the way
I think there is a kink in the cable's liner so I am ordering a new throttle cable
I found a nice looking one on ebay braided stainless steel
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7980873275&fromMakeTrack=true
looks like it can be adapted

The good news is that my cruiser starts and idles AOK this is really the first time I get to hear the engine with a muffler on.. sounds like the valves are knocking a bit otherwise the engine is very responsive no leaks....
it's going to be fun to drive
I was planning on driving to Key west for the summer but I don't think it is ready for long trips like that NY to FlA is quite a trip, the wife and kid probably wouldn't be too happy