Help with Gears/Lockers and PM Info "while I'm in there" (1 Viewer)

[eric90503]

I'm hoping to get some insight from guys and gals who've had to do their gears. Currently I've got a 97' unlocked 80 with 115k on the clock. This will be my first time attempting to get my gears/lockers done.

Just got some harp/eaton e-lockers front and rear from AUS. I'm looking at getting some 4.88's to push my 35's I am currently running at the moment (thanks SoCalLove for the loaner wheels/tires)

While I'm in there with the 3rd member removal, any suggestions for PM'ing the axles housing? Birf seals?
Currently I've got motivation, already tired from my project I just wrapped, lol. Trying to decide if I'm going to man up and tackle this install or find a reputable local installer. Any Links or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. As for now I'll need to source some 4.88 Nitros and I believe a master kit is needed? In the meantime, I will be searching for PM threads on how to tackle this install.

Thanks In Advance

Eric

 

[Whileemptyheadsdream]

You just have to pull your axles out about 3 to 4 Inches. Rears are easy to poll out but fronts take a little more. The real work and expertise Is In the gear and locker Install. You need a good understanding of Diffs. You also need good tools that are specific to Diffs. Google Toyota Gear Installs and Zuk has a good write up on what you need. He Is a very competent Diff Man. To do this Right Its going to cost you some money, Diffs must be done correctly. IMO Diff regear and locker Install are a Job mentally It takes a high degree of focus. To do It right takes time. They are also heavy and If air lockers , delicate. Good Luck..!

 

[eric90503]

@Whileemptyheadsdream
Thanks buddy. Absolutely correct on the gear/locker install. Having worked on German motion picture camera movements and lenses, I know it would take me years to understand and perfect backlash etc, let alone amass a small fortune in the tools to assemble and measure it. So I would definitely leave it to the experts like ZUK.

My time and energy is so tight these days that I can only afford to do it once. I could pay to have someone do it but I'd like to know how to do it myself incase if I ever have to do it in the field. Since then I've been youtubing a few videos by Powermodz, I think he might be a mud member.

Still searching for this thread I've seen on mud a couple years ago on birfield servicing. It was very OCD detailed and organized with good pics.

 

[sbman]

I'm in this exact spot right now on my truck. Doing all the seals, bearings, etc... as well as a locker install on the front. I also decided to do suspension bushings, springs and shocks 'while I'm in there'. The shocks actually broke during removal, my impact gun twisted the end of the shock right off instead of breaking the nut loose! I guess 230K is enough life for the OEM shocks and they get to retire now.

The best thread I've found on axle service, and possibly the one you are looking for is:

Front Axle Rebuild - For FAQ

 

[wagonteeth]

Having had to reinstall my gears after a botched "pro" job, I'll throw my 2c in the pot.

Things you'll need for the gears:
-a bench or table that is sturdy enough to hold the diff, gear side up, while you torque bolts to spec, set preload and backlash (I bought a Workmate portable bench off craigslist and it worked fine. I sourced a couple lengths of 2" C channel, drilled holes for boltsto mount the diffs to them, then C clamped the C channels to the Workmate. It could have been better, but it worked.)
-a inch pound torque wrench and adapters to determine preload (bought mine off Amazon, for setting bicycle spoke tension, plus some 1/4-1/2" adapters)
-a micro depth gauge to measure backlash and a mount. (I got mine at Harbor freight- fairly cheap and accurate enough for the job)
- buy some solid spacers to replace the included crush sleeves. (I bought mine from Trail Gear or Just Diffs. They're specific to factory locked orf factory open diffs, IIRC) This will let you replace the pinion oil seals without recrushing the crush sleeve and altering pinion depth.

You'll need a couple day to do both diffs, so you can't be in need of the ride for a while. Spend some time playing with the diff to see how it functions, so you see how and why the settings are crucial.

Zuk's site has some important specs you need to have with you when you start tearing into/setting up the diffs.

A press is nice, but if you don't have one, you can get around the need by buying extra pinion bearings and turning them into set up bearings. I did so by getting some 800 grit sandpaper, wrapping it around a piece of PVC pipe, and taking off a few thousandths from the inside of the pinion bearing surface. This makes the set up bearing fit snug, but it's not pressed on, so you can tap the pinion back out of the bearing while determining the shim sizes needed for the solid spacer to reach the correct pinion depth. It's important that you use the same brand of bearings for set up and install for each diff. I mean, if you're using Koyo bearings for the install, don't buy National brand for the set up bearing. The tapers are not exact, so they won't give you the same pinion depth.

Nothing more I can tell you about set up- the rest is just getting in, putting the pinion in, setting the carrier/ring gear in and getting some readings and seeing what you need to adjust. The thing is, each adjustment affects other measurements, so if you need for example, .007" more pinion depth, it's going to affect the carrier set up and backlash. On my factory e-locker, the carrier is installed with thick shims. I think the open diff has an adjuster, so can't comment on that aspect.

And yeah, while you're in the front, you may as well replace the all of the bearings, check the spindles, do the brakes.

Hope this helps. Having done it, it wasn't that hard, just tedious. I took a lot of notes of each measurement, ended up having to order a second set of solid spacer shims and wait for them to arrive to finish. I did the rear first, and the front was much easier.

I have about 40,000 miles on my gear install and all is well.

do skimp on the break in. Follow the instructions, have some some gear lube ready to replace when you get it to the specified mileage (I think my YUkon gears said 500 mi.)