Help with freshly rebuilt engine (1 Viewer)

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Just throwing this out there, but everything that has been suggested above is easier, simpler and safer than opening up and tweaking the VAF which is rarely an issue... unless it has been opened up and messed with. You feel it is running rich, but the plugs don't show that, although they were not in for very long. What is up with the first plug on the left ? I can't seem to actually see the insulator or electrode....

Just be careful with that VAF or you could very well end up needed a new one.

Jason
Yeah, actually the air flow sensor is a reman and somehow the cover was loose, I messed with it and no change, if anything it made the iddle rougher. I replaced the gas filter, it seems it was the original that came with the car. The engine runs smoother but still rough iddle. I ordered a new reman air flow sensor since maybe this one isn't reading properly. Checked for vacuum leaks again and nothing. Also that plug you saw, yes it almost seems like the shop that install the engine somehow knowingly put that s***ty old plug back in. When I saw it I knew it was going to solve my problem but really didn't altough the engine runs better. It is still shaky and rough so I will replace the air flow sensor next and see what happens. Also if the iddle is rough, can I get it to iddle better by moving the distributor a bit?
 
Update: After replacing the spark plug wires, spark plugs, dist cap and rotor; checked for vacuum leaks and didn't find any, cleaned up the ICV, messed up with the IAFM and no change, As for now somehow the engine is running better but back to where it was, when its cold it runs smooth and when it runs normal temp the rps drop but it definetely runs better. I also replaced the steering bar tie rods ends to get rid of a metal to metal clunking and it seems like there is a clunking coming from the drivers side coil spring. I replaced all 4 shocks (Bilstein) and steering stabilizer (OME). I'm also waiting for a reman IAFM and see if that is what is causing the rough iddle. I will also try the temp sensors just in case but I'm out of things to check. I will report back if anything changes after the IAFM. Thank you all for your help.
 
It is unlikely to be the MAF or MAP unless someone has messed with them. There are lot of possibilities for air leaks between the MAF and the cylinder like the EGR or the break booster keep looking for air leaks.
 
It is unlikely to be the MAF or MAP unless someone has messed with them. There are lot of possibilities for air leaks between the MAF and the cylinder like the EGR or the break booster keep looking for air leaks.
I replaced today the intake air flow meter and I noticed a slight change but when it reaches the normal temp, the engine iddles rough still. seems to me that the engine may be getting enough air but not enough gas. If turn the AC on I can notice an improvement. I'm taking it to a shop and hopefully they can figure it out. I run out of ideas for now. Also the alternator which is new, I hear a clunking noise so it may get replaced. Thanks
 
Did you check the EGR and brake booster for air leaks? These are not so easy to check.
 
Did you check the EGR and brake booster for air leaks? These are not so easy to check.
Late reply here. The mechanic did a valve adjustment and he said a valve was a bit off and also he replaced the EGR valve and boom! The car runs great! Thank you for your advice. Now sadly I'm going to put it up for sale.
 

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