aging fleet
SILVER Star
Appreciate the photos and commentary, I'm hoping to accomplish the same job after the holidays so it's helpful to see you working through it.
10/'79 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter OhioFJ
- Start date
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John McVicker
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #64
Got the new flywheel / clutch / pressure plate mounted. New bolts to attach the plate to the flywheel.
Knocked out the old release bearing by suspending it btwn two pieces of lumber and struck it with a bearing driver. Tapped new one in.
I went with a double-seal output shaft housing from Georg at Valley Hybrids. Great to work with. Greased the seals before mounting it up.
Reattached the PTO cover and rear shaft cover.
The parking brake drum was slightly scored. Applied some loctite and a speedy sleeve after some measuring to cover the affected area.
This is the sleeve I used:
Amazon product ASIN B000EPTAPC
Knocked out the old release bearing by suspending it btwn two pieces of lumber and struck it with a bearing driver. Tapped new one in.
I went with a double-seal output shaft housing from Georg at Valley Hybrids. Great to work with. Greased the seals before mounting it up.
Reattached the PTO cover and rear shaft cover.
The parking brake drum was slightly scored. Applied some loctite and a speedy sleeve after some measuring to cover the affected area.
This is the sleeve I used:
Amazon product ASIN B000EPTAPC
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- Thread starter
- #66
That’s what I was thinking. Grit and grease rubbed in there over many miles.
- Thread starter
- #67
Big day in Cleveland
I cut the heads off of some 12 x 1.25 bolts to use a guides. Chamfered the edges to help guide them in and cut a slot to make removal easier.
Used my harbor freight transmission jack to navigate the beast into position. If you happen to have the same one, I added a nut to the front to adjust with a wrench; the front/back tilt as the knob is difficult to work where it is placed. Used a ratchet strap to pull on clutch fork and center the release bearing. I was prepared to drop the back of the engine but thankfully didn't have to.
I felt like I was docking a capsule to the space station. The last 1/2" would not engage easily; I had my wife hit the clutch a few times at it went right in (thanks @Pin_Head). I thought a band might play or confetti would shoot out the tail pipe. Alas the only sound was a single tear of mine hitting the cold garage floor.
I cut the heads off of some 12 x 1.25 bolts to use a guides. Chamfered the edges to help guide them in and cut a slot to make removal easier.
Used my harbor freight transmission jack to navigate the beast into position. If you happen to have the same one, I added a nut to the front to adjust with a wrench; the front/back tilt as the knob is difficult to work where it is placed. Used a ratchet strap to pull on clutch fork and center the release bearing. I was prepared to drop the back of the engine but thankfully didn't have to.
I felt like I was docking a capsule to the space station. The last 1/2" would not engage easily; I had my wife hit the clutch a few times at it went right in (thanks @Pin_Head). I thought a band might play or confetti would shoot out the tail pipe. Alas the only sound was a single tear of mine hitting the cold garage floor.
I suggest you keep that dragonfly gasket and maybe frame it like the work of art it is
- Thread starter
- #70
Changed the thread title to more accurately reflect what it has become.
Reassembled the parking brake with new shoes.
Applied some FIPG to the parking drum; got some nice fill to hopefully minimize leaks. Replaced washer and new stake nut. Torqued to 112 ft-lbs.
Working on the rear pinion seal now.
Reassembled the parking brake with new shoes.
Applied some FIPG to the parking drum; got some nice fill to hopefully minimize leaks. Replaced washer and new stake nut. Torqued to 112 ft-lbs.
Working on the rear pinion seal now.
Your doing Excellent work and Professional Level Photos documentation for the MUD Archives and future folks doing the same ! 
keep it up .....
keep it up .....
- Thread starter
- #72
Nothing like doing the same project twice..
I made a Real Dumb decision and used the black FIPG on the parking brake drum. I should have used the orange as it is contact with gear oil.. I should have known better. Thanks @ToyotaMatt for pointing this out.
Of course I couldn’t get the parking brake drum off now that it was all gooped up with FIPG. Had to make a puller with some angle iron and threaded rod. Got it all cleaned up and back together with the right stuff. Painful lesson but at least I will worry less.
I made a Real Dumb decision and used the black FIPG on the parking brake drum. I should have used the orange as it is contact with gear oil.. I should have known better. Thanks @ToyotaMatt for pointing this out.
Of course I couldn’t get the parking brake drum off now that it was all gooped up with FIPG. Had to make a puller with some angle iron and threaded rod. Got it all cleaned up and back together with the right stuff. Painful lesson but at least I will worry less.
77mustard40
SILVER Star
Nice work, I’m trying to remember if I sealed that when I did mine… I guess I shouldn‘t worry about it since it’s been a long time and I don’t think it’s leaking
it was NOT a dumb decision Ari , FIPG is a relative term TOYOTA uses and easy to get mixed up ,
just remember , this is the way i did anyway :
- Engine OIL gets BLACK when u change it , so hence OIL pan and Cam shaft housing sealant or BLACK FIPG 00295-00102 / 00103
also , this is applied to ALL coolant system gaskets like water pumps and t-stat housings etc ....
- GEAR BOX OIL is usually a Reddish Brown Color when u install it NEW and Sometimes when u drain it too ...... so , ALL Axles , Gear Boxes get OARNGE / Reddish Brown FIPG 00295-01281
- same goes for ALL ATM TOYOTA Fluid filled Transmission's and the few rare T-Cases that also get ATM fluid installed applications
- i think TOYOTA might of had a similar philosophy at the beginning , oil black so FIPG black / First Gen. ATF / Dextron I , RED so RED FIPG .....
Dextron II , and III , finally TYPE T-IV and so on , up till todays WORLD SERVICE TOYOTA OEM ATF Fluid too , all still RED COLOR DYE ADDED
the best TOYOTA Technical self taught lessons i have learned have not cost me any coins , i hope this one was the same for you
lastly , this is cheap insurance in my JIS world , apply libraerly RED , ( NOT BLUE ) on ALL Assembly of DRIVE TRAIN hardware , especially the main 12 Propeller Shafts NUTS and Bolts , and the 4 main Parking brake drum Nuts / Lock washers too ....
i swear by this step by step because it's what i was Programed to believe in and indeed apply hands on at T-TEN Skool , and i have never had a single issue when doing just that ..
just remember , this is the way i did anyway :
- Engine OIL gets BLACK when u change it , so hence OIL pan and Cam shaft housing sealant or BLACK FIPG 00295-00102 / 00103
also , this is applied to ALL coolant system gaskets like water pumps and t-stat housings etc ....
- GEAR BOX OIL is usually a Reddish Brown Color when u install it NEW and Sometimes when u drain it too ...... so , ALL Axles , Gear Boxes get OARNGE / Reddish Brown FIPG 00295-01281
- same goes for ALL ATM TOYOTA Fluid filled Transmission's and the few rare T-Cases that also get ATM fluid installed applications
- i think TOYOTA might of had a similar philosophy at the beginning , oil black so FIPG black / First Gen. ATF / Dextron I , RED so RED FIPG .....
Dextron II , and III , finally TYPE T-IV and so on , up till todays WORLD SERVICE TOYOTA OEM ATF Fluid too , all still RED COLOR DYE ADDED
the best TOYOTA Technical self taught lessons i have learned have not cost me any coins , i hope this one was the same for you
lastly , this is cheap insurance in my JIS world , apply libraerly RED , ( NOT BLUE ) on ALL Assembly of DRIVE TRAIN hardware , especially the main 12 Propeller Shafts NUTS and Bolts , and the 4 main Parking brake drum Nuts / Lock washers too ....
i swear by this step by step because it's what i was Programed to believe in and indeed apply hands on at T-TEN Skool , and i have never had a single issue when doing just that ..
- Thread starter
- #75
I’m working on putting in new universal joints.
Noted that the capped end of one of the yokes has been mashed on and is not airtight. I can blow air in the end and hear it hiss out around the plug.
This would explain all of the grease and crud that had extruded around the u joint previously
My plan is to clean it up well and apply some thinned JB weld to seal it up. Open to any ideas.
Noted that the capped end of one of the yokes has been mashed on and is not airtight. I can blow air in the end and hear it hiss out around the plug.
This would explain all of the grease and crud that had extruded around the u joint previously
My plan is to clean it up well and apply some thinned JB weld to seal it up. Open to any ideas.
YAMAHA Outboard Marine engines and personal water craft use stainless steel JIS zerk / grease fittings , they are made in japan by the same exact OEM parts maker
ASCO Corporation as any non-stainless Toyota vehicles ones are still today in 2021 ....
- they have all the same exact profiles and thread pitches and diameters as Ari's FJ40 Propeller shafts , tie rod , relay rod , drag link , and center arms factory ZERK
locations etc.....
- TOYOTA does and has OWNED outright YAMAHA since JIS and JDM time began long ago .....
ill post up the various YAMAHA part numbers i use in my shop since my time began at age 16 ,
some long time ago too
ASCO Corporation as any non-stainless Toyota vehicles ones are still today in 2021 ....
- they have all the same exact profiles and thread pitches and diameters as Ari's FJ40 Propeller shafts , tie rod , relay rod , drag link , and center arms factory ZERK
locations etc.....
- TOYOTA does and has OWNED outright YAMAHA since JIS and JDM time began long ago .....
ill post up the various YAMAHA part numbers i use in my shop since my time began at age 16 ,
some long time ago too
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- Thread starter
- #77
YAMAHA Outboard Marine engines and personal water craft use stainless steel JIS zerk / grease fittings , they are made in japan by the same exact OEM parts maker
ASCO Corporation as any non-stainless Toyota vehicles ones are still today in 2021 ....
- they have all the same exact profiles and thread pitches and diameters as Ari's FJ40 Propeller shafts , tie rod , relay rod , drag link , and center arms factory ZERK
locations etc.....
- TOYOTA does and has OWNED outright YAMAHA since JIS and JDM time began long ago .....
ill post up the various YAMAHA part numbers i use in my shop since my time began at age 16 ,
some long time ago too
Thanks Matt - just to be clear I do have the zerk, I removed it so I didn't mess it up. My issues is with the cap in the end of the propeller shaft yoke.
zerks corrode from the inside out in general , it would be good fit form and function step by step to simply replace them as a matter of Course due to age and time in
general , the spring and check ball are moving parts and subject to all the quams we are all too familiar with in general ....
do u plan on replacing your Spider Gears as a whole or re-installing the existing parts u pressed out ?
ill see if i have a replacement cap / cup / plug u detail above ...
they are basically a glorified freeze plug like on a engine block ,
general , the spring and check ball are moving parts and subject to all the quams we are all too familiar with in general ....
do u plan on replacing your Spider Gears as a whole or re-installing the existing parts u pressed out ?
ill see if i have a replacement cap / cup / plug u detail above ...
they are basically a glorified freeze plug like on a engine block ,
- Thread starter
- #79
Thank you - Yes I've replaced the universal joints with some from Cruiser Outfitters - they are Matsuba brand and appear to be of nice quality.
You Can't go wrong with anything or anyone at @cruiseroutfit / Kurt's gig out in Salk Lake , he has it going on and quality parts also like you mention too , excellent
choice there !
choice there !
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