10/'79 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yes, pedal height and free play adjusted with the pushrod between pedal and master. You should also have throwout bearing clearance adjusted by the slave pushrod
 
There's an adjustment rod at the slave. You could shorten it slightly and see if it makes a difference. Remove the inspection cover and see it the throw out bearing is riding on the pp. There should be some free play.
 
Ok here are some photos - with the clutch not depressed it appears that the throwout bearing is as far back as it could be and not pressing much on the pressure plate. I think this strengthens the argument that it is the clutch itself.

Clutch out:
IMG_7445.JPG


Clutch in:
IMG_7446.JPG
 
With clutch out, can you see light between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate?
 
With clutch out, can you see light between the throwout bearing and the pressure plate?

With the clutch out I can slide a piece of paper between the two with a little effort. I can spin the the throwout bearing with little resistance. I could probably only adjust the bearing back another mm by adjusting the slave.
 
I’m preparing to remove the tranny and have removed the front and rear drive shafts.

What’s the best way to deal with the parking brake cable? Disconnect in the cab and pull it through?

Thank you
 
I’m preparing to remove the tranny and have removed the front and rear drive shafts.

What’s the best way to deal with the parking brake cable? Disconnect in the cab and pull it through?

Thank you
That’s what I did
 
What’s the best way to deal with the parking brake cable? Disconnect in the cab and pull it through?
Or, with the rear driveshaft off, you can see the stake nut that holds the parking brake drum on.
Remove that big nut and pull the drum off. You'll then see the other end of the cable where it connects with the linkage in the parking brake.
There's a little C-clip that keeps the cable from pulling through the backing plate, remove that clip and pull the cable out of the backing plate.
 
Ok making some progress..

Removed the parking brake assembly by unstaking the nut and removed the drum. Detached the cable and removed the parts for cleaning. About a quart of oil spilled out as I hadn't drained the case yet. Looking at the parking brake I think the seal is likely bad, hence all the crud in the assembly.

IMG_7511.jpeg
IMG_7519.jpeg
IMG_7523.jpeg
 
Last edited:
I read about removing the shifter with a jar opener, which I don't have. Instead I used a shock absorber bushing and wrench to push down and twist. Worked like a charm.

IMG_7526.jpeg
IMG_7527.jpeg



Got the tranny out from underneath with a tranny jack. Strapped it to the jack x2. Was not as bad as I thought. I know getting it back in will be challenging.

Pulled the clutch - I'm no mechanic but it looks pretty beat to me.

IMG_7529.jpeg
 
Questions -

Does anyone know the part number for the seal between the parking brake and transfer case? Is this the rear output shaft seal?

Any simple way to block the flywheel from rotating while I try to remove the nuts?

Thanks again everyone
 
Last edited:
Do yourself a favor and swap that seal housing out with a modified one from georg at valley hybrid. This will put two seal on that shaft and they’ll be in a location that is different from the current one which is no-doubt worn. Not terribly expensive and very much worth it for the no leak peace of mind.
 
I recently used that seal and it is a double lip. Maybe double lip isn’t quite right as there’s still only 1 spring in it, but it did have 2 sealing surfaces.
Check for a groove also on the drum sealing surface. If it’s grooved, look into a speedi sleeve.
 
Also for the clutch disc, there should be a min thickness spec, but it looks like it’s worn into the river heads, so a new clutch definitely should help.
 
Also for the clutch disc, there should be a min thickness spec, but it looks like it’s worn into the river heads, so a new clutch definitely should help.
Yes I have a new clutch kit ready to go. Also going to have the flywheel machined as I can feel some grooves, I believe from those exposed rivets.
 
Do yourself a favor and swap that seal housing out with a modified one from georg at valley hybrid. This will put two seal on that shaft and they’ll be in a location that is different from the current one which is no-doubt worn. Not terribly expensive and very much worth it for the no leak peace of mind.
Nice thank you.
 
Any simple way to block the flywheel from rotating while I try to remove the nuts?
Stick the blade of your biggest slot screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel and run it up against the edge of the bellhousing. One hand on the handle of your big ratchet and one hand on the handle of the screwdriver might get it.
I have on old flywheel lock from a VW that also fits the teeth of a LandCruiser flywheel but it's pretty much the same idea.
 
Stick the blade of your biggest slot screwdriver in the teeth of the flywheel and run it up against the edge of the bellhousing. One hand on the handle of your big ratchet and one hand on the handle of the screwdriver might get it.
I have on old flywheel lock from a VW that also fits the teeth of a LandCruiser flywheel but it's pretty much the same idea.

This worked well. My impact wasn’t doing the trick. Now on to the rear main seal and oil pan gasket.

1D4F24FE-9A2C-46C6-B145-DD6991CFB4CF.jpeg
D89D1532-F64F-4F83-B062-58FA905FA7D9.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom