I'm building a 1968 40 and I have replaced the front axle with one from a 78 (Disc Brakes). I'm still a rookie and I'm not sure if I should keep the back setup with drums and get a proportioning valve to run it like stock? I did a SOA and I'm going to run 35's. I put in a 350 with a Dana 20 Transfer Case and a T-18 4 speed. Is it more cost effective to convert the rear to disc or run the mix of disc up front & drum in the back? If I keep the mix is it hard to find the proportioning valve? I'm also in need of a Brake Master, I think the booster I have will work. Looking for ideas??? Thanks!
Help with Brake Setup (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TOYOTAHEAVEN
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35s are a big tire and depending on the tire can be very heavy. i would recommend discs in the rear, but if you don't have the money right now, your drums will work. invest in an adjustable prop valve like the ones from wilwood or summit, that way if you do go to rear discs later, you can just adjust the valve for the difference.
are you replacing the master because it's bad or because you're doing the swap? you don't need a new one for discs. a later model toy master is a nice upgrade if you go to the 1" piston, but not necessary, just remember to pull the residual valve out of whichever circuits have disc brakes.
are you replacing the master because it's bad or because you're doing the swap? you don't need a new one for discs. a later model toy master is a nice upgrade if you go to the 1" piston, but not necessary, just remember to pull the residual valve out of whichever circuits have disc brakes.
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- #3
No Master
I need a new Master since I currently do not have one. I need to order one ASAP. I'm thinking one from a late model 40 will work. I'm also wondering if I can use one from a late model Toyota pickup? Any idea what a conversion will run for the rear. I've seen several different conversions available. Not sure which is best?
I need a new Master since I currently do not have one. I need to order one ASAP. I'm thinking one from a late model 40 will work. I'm also wondering if I can use one from a late model Toyota pickup? Any idea what a conversion will run for the rear. I've seen several different conversions available. Not sure which is best?
The rib going straight up the engine side of your firewall will give you some fits. Because of this, nothing is going to bolt directly on your 1968 FJ 40.
Here is the rib and how not to install the booster.
Here is the rib and how not to install the booster.
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You do great work, Danimal. 
No reason to be ashamed of that agglomeration of scrap metal.
No reason to be ashamed of that agglomeration of scrap metal.
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Have you done this yet?
There will be some difficult geometry w/ the centered output Jeep T-case, offset Cruiser rear axle and a springover. It might be easiest to keep going and do a centered jeep axle, which might change the rear brake setup.
Dang It, this is not my handywork, I swear it's not!
Someone did just what he is doing. Disc front brakes but on a 1964. I posted the pic to show the rib. I think in 1972 is when the rib get kicked over and out at the top to make room for a vacuum brake booster.
Here is the rest of what they did to that poor FJ 40. I took it from them before they could abuse it anymore. They were unworthy of owning a classic.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/269351-another-what-fj-40-worth-thread.html
You do great work, Danimal.
No reason to be ashamed of that agglomeration of scrap metal.
Someone did just what he is doing. Disc front brakes but on a 1964. I posted the pic to show the rib. I think in 1972 is when the rib get kicked over and out at the top to make room for a vacuum brake booster.
Here is the rest of what they did to that poor FJ 40. I took it from them before they could abuse it anymore. They were unworthy of owning a classic.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/269351-another-what-fj-40-worth-thread.html
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OK Dan, you're off the hook... fer now.
And Wow, that is a nice 40 you got yerself there.
And Wow, that is a nice 40 you got yerself there.
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- #9
I cut the rib and plated the firewall from both sides. This allowed me to take a clutch & brake pedal assembly from a later model 40. I'll take some pics ASAP and post. Now I have a flat surface to work with. The kicked out rib in later models was the ticket but on the 68 I had to make do. I have a booster from what I believe is a late model toyota pickup. Bolts line up to pedal assembly for brake pedal. I'm just looking for a decent master cylinder and don't want to pay out the nose. Maybe since I'm still in the build I should spend the $$$ and convert the rear brakes. I'm hoping to stay street legal so I can not have to trailer. No rocks here in Southern NJ just Pine Barrens. Sandy roads with black mud.
