Help with alignment after lift (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Threads
21
Messages
77
Location
Athens, AL
I had an Ironman 2” lift installed and 285/75/16 Toyo open country RT put on. The tire installer is having trouble getting alignment to spec. The lift was installed and leveled the front. Could we have pushed the front up too far? If I lower the front some could that help get the caster back in spec?
 
I don’t know the specifics, someone will know better than I but I believe it can be difficult to get a good alignment after lift with the OEM UCAs…
 
Need rake, not level. Drop the front down so that you have at minimum 50mm of droop (the more the better). OEM UCAs work fine with a “lift”. Learn to love the rake.
 
i just checked the droop and i have 1.5-1.75" (40-45mm) on the front. I guess i need to take about 0.75-1" of lift out of the front and try the alignment again. Right now i only have 0.25" of rake. How hard is it for me to reindex the torsion bars? they are new so i assume jacking it up and pulling them out should not be an issue. how long does this typically take?
 
i just checked the droop and i have 1.5-1.75" (40-45mm) on the front. I guess i need to take about 0.75-1" of lift out of the front and try the alignment again. Right now i only have 0.25" of rake. How hard is it for me to reindex the torsion bars? they are new so i assume jacking it up and pulling them out should not be an issue. how long does this typically take?
You dont need to reindex the torsion bars probably. I marked this video where he provides a good walkthough on how to measure and adjust your rake.
 
Reindexing shouldn't take any longer than a couple of hours, especially since it's all new stuff. Everything has been apart recently, so it shouldn't give you trouble coming apart again. Pretty simple procedure too.

That being said, it may not need to be reindexed if you have enough room on the adjuster bolt. You have to back it out anyway for the indexing, so you might as well that first. Ideally, you want a 1" rake front to back, that's pretty close to factory.
 
I ran into that problem. As I suspected, the shop did not have any instructions on 100 series trucks (didn't know what the were doing). These shops don't see many lifted 100's.

I printed out the appropriat fsm pages and called them on it. After "sensitive persuasion" the owner took over and got the alignment in spec (with me watching). It was a testy situation.

I believe control arm cams will get "set" in stock condition. Going outside of factory is difficult after all these years due to expected fusing of sliding surfaces. A little persuasion came to the rescue via cheater bars.
 
I have the slee instructions for installing torsion bars and the fsm pages on the install, setup and measurements. I may gat it this afternoon then go back for alignment.

The torsion bars anchor arm bolts already look too far backed out based on the FSM. Not really sure why but my gut says take them off and reinstall.

the truck is from the south and has no rust plus they were just removed and installed so hopefully this will go quick.
 
If you only have .25'' rake, then no need to re-index the bars. Just crawl under there and adjust the torsion bar bolts down a bit until you're happy with the rake and droop.

As far as the alignment goes: camber and castor is a tug of war on these trucks. If anything, i would tell him to get the camber within spec (shouldnt be a problem). and ask that they get the castor as close to factory specs as possible...but you may not be able to get castor in the green with the factory control arms.
 
Here is the report. The caster is out. But pulls left.
IMG_6626.jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom