Help w/starting issues (1 Viewer)

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Anything dealing with the timing belt won't cause the dash lights to go out when you try and crank the starter. We are concentrating on targeting and solving an electrical issue, which is probably due to a bad mechanical connection, or a weak electrical source (battery)
 
How did you test the battery exactly? Tested CCA under load or simply measured voltage at rest?
 
How did you test the battery exactly? Tested CCA under load or simply measured voltage at rest?
Took to big box shop, I know. Did use tester, but was getting crazy high reading 33 and 24 volts, hooked up to jumper car.
 
Anything dealing with the timing belt won't cause the dash lights to go out when you try and crank the starter. We are concentrating on targeting and solving an electrical issue, which is probably due to a bad mechanical connection, or a weak electrical source (battery)
That is good news indeed
 
Battery should be 12-13.x VDC at rest measured between the posts.
The lead tester (applied at the posts) should measure CCA. Or, a poor mans way to guesstimate it is to measure voltage when the starter is under load. Much under 10V and I'd start to get concerned the battery had a dead cell. YMMV on that.

Took to big box shop, I know. Did use tester, but was getting crazy high reading 33 and 24 volts, hooked up to jumper car.

Something about this just isn't right. If the truck really saw 24-33V I'd suspect you cooked a fuse, fusible link, or relay ... or worse if you are unlucky.
 
Battery should be 12-13.x VDC at rest measured between the posts.
The lead tester (applied at the posts) should measure CCA. Or, a poor mans way to guesstimate it is to measure voltage when the starter is under load. Much under 10V and I'd start to get concerned the battery had a dead cell. YMMV on that.



Something about this just isn't right. If the truck really saw 24-33V I'd suspect you cooked a fuse, fusible link, or relay ... or worse if you are unlucky.
That's what I thought too, my buddy is pretty sure he didn't have his plugs in all the way, then his tester died
 
I have had an aftermarket alternator put out 40+ volts before, almost instantly when the parts store machine started spinning it. It actually broke the testing machines at 2 different parts stores, oops. Luckily it didn’t fry anything in my old ‘65 truck. I’d shudder to think of putting that much voltage through a modern cars electronics....
 
I have had an aftermarket alternator put out 40+ volts before, almost instantly when the parts store machine started spinning it. It actually broke the testing machines at 2 different parts stores, oops. Luckily it didn’t fry anything in my old ‘65 truck. I’d shudder to think of putting that much voltage through a modern cars electronics....
Agreed, I'm hoping he just fried his tester 🤞
 
Unrelated vehicle-wise, but I had an experience once with a shop I used for years. Jeep with a bad alternator replaced it more than four times. It seemed like a bad batch from Napa or whatever parts supplier.
 
Unrelated vehicle-wise, but I had an experience once with a shop I used for years. Jeep with a bad alternator replaced it more than four times. It seemed like a bad batch from Napa or whatever parts supplier.
I'm thinking that probably happened, the ones I dropped/swapped all tested "bad" of course I wondered if I fried em
 
Got it, well found bad ground. She fires right up! Just chasing an air leak, but that's a breeze comparatively, pun intended. Thanks to all of you for the help!!!!
Injector didn't seat properly. Now VROOM VROOM!!! THANK YOU ALL!!!
 
All of the alternators from the usual parts stores in the past ~10 years or more have been a 'bad batch.' I went through 6 for my wife's Subaru before I gave up. Several others I've seen fail. They're all rebuilt at bottom dollar overseas. If you want a good alternator, rebuild it yourself or at a trusted alternator shop, or *maybe* go OEM.
 

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