Help! Stuck bolt (1 Viewer)

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I’m in the process of refurbishing my hard top. I’ve broken it down to all of its sub assemblies and I’m cleaning up rust and repainting where necessary.

Of course nothing is easy on a land cruiser. This part is the cross bar that holds the rear hatch. It’s a sealed up box with captured nuts to attach the angle brackets. 3 of the bolts came right out. The last one was pretty stuck. I put the impact wrench on it and it started to move. But it didn’t back out. It just spins. I tried removing the hinges to see if that would get me access but they are frozen also.

Any of you veterans of rust wars have any ideas? For reference are the pics of the easy side and the trouble maker.

D364B3B1-768B-4F9D-8B11-8D659964A885.jpeg


E48F0E46-43C5-4D05-AA8A-6F76DD5F3B24.jpeg
 
Those have capturer nuts on the back side….with an impact, probably broke the nut lose…I see a grinder in your future.
If I were to cut off the bolt head, it would solve my immediate problem. But when I reassemble I’m not sure what I’d do. Weld the angle piece on? Cut an access hole to get a nut on the inside?
 
If you are going to do it right , cut out enough to get to the capture nut, clean it up , and tack the new nut in.
 
Here’s what I think I’ll do.
1. Cut the bolt head off, leaving as much bolt as I can. Then I can determine if the captured nut is moving or the bolt is stripped.
2. If needed cut a hole in the side of the box to solve the problem.
I’ll update you guys for your entertainment!

Thanks for the help so far...
 
Last edited:
Maybe give this a try. Remove the hinge and see if the channel is open and gives you access to last hole. If the access is there find a piece of 1/4" bar stock that will fit in the channel and span between the one captured nut and where the new hole has to go. While holding the bar stock in place mark where the bolt needs to go and remove, drill and tap. Then it would simply be a matter of holding the bar stock in place and insert the bolt. The length of the bar stock will keep it from spinning. Put the hinge back in place and you're good to go.
 
Maybe give this a try. Remove the hinge and see if the channel is open and gives you access to last hole. If the access is there find a piece of 1/4" bar stock that will fit in the channel and span between the one captured nut and where the new hole has to go. While holding the bar stock in place mark where the bolt needs to go and remove, drill and tap. Then it would simply be a matter of holding the bar stock in place and insert the bolt. The length of the bar stock will keep it from spinning. Put the hinge back in place and you're good to go.
That’s a pretty good idea. The screws that hold the hinge are stuck good. I did treat them and I’ll see it they can be convinced to come out.
 
That’s a pretty good idea. The screws that hold the hinge are stuck good. I did treat them and I’ll see it they can be convinced to come out.
Soak them for a couple of days with Kroil. If you don't have an impact driver, the type you hit with a hammer, pick one up. The impact hammer usually works for two reasons; first the blows from the hammer will shock and break the rust free and second the downward strikes tend to keep the Philips head driver from slipping out of the slots.
 
I got the hinge out but it doesn’t gain me any access to the stuck bolt. I guess some surgery will be required.

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Those hinge bolts have captive nuts as well. You still need to cut , remove rusted / broken captive nuts, and clean and re tack new captive nuts. Then prime /paint the places you exposed as this is the time to do it. When all is said and done, I always install new hardware, with anti - seize for the long run. You always can go away from original, but I always have to do it right.
 

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