HELP! Steering knuckle grease blowout (1 Viewer)

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On the other side of the coin...what would be the problem (if any) of using a synthetic moly grease all the way around? Guess I'm ignorant of all this grease stuff.
:p
 
I have the same question - I bought RED moly synthentic (Redline) and plan to use it all around (in the knuckle and the wheel bearings) - NGLI #2. Redline states for wheel bearings and CV joints ect....

I think Christo uses the Amsoil syth (red/purple) all around.

Advice would be helpful as I'm starting in on this on the weekend.

Thanks
 
I'm pretty sure that using the moly all around isn't a problem. However some of the moly out there has a lead compound in it and warning labels to avoid contact with the skin. If you do use this stuff in the wheel bearing and do a military pack, I'd invest in some latex gloves. Currently the wheel bearings are the only place I don't have moly in them.
 
BUMMER! MY SON'S '93 JUST BLEW! We had a complete rebuild 40K ago.

His is dripping the grey grease on the ground and the crap flew everywhere under the truck. The knuckle is a mess. Everything is grey colored though so I'm guessing no other fluids have contiminated the knuckle area.

What do you think happened in his case?

Should I Toyota the thing or do you think my mechanic with the aid of a FSM could do it. He's never done an 80 front axle. ??
 
Sounds like the front axle vent tube is clogged. Pressure built up and some released. If you want to rebuild it, go ahead as that's hard to argue. I'd do the axle vent mod to prevent pressure build up and see if the purging stops. If so, check fluid/grease levels, top off as needed and carry on until the service interval calls for a repack.

DougM
 
Sounds like the front axle vent tube is clogged. Pressure built up and some released. If you want to rebuild it, go ahead as that's hard to argue. I'd do the axle vent mod to prevent pressure build up and see if the purging stops. If so, check fluid/grease levels, top off as needed and carry on until the service interval calls for a repack.

DougM

Wow. It could be something that simple? Dang! We'll check that first. Thanks!
 
Check The Steering Arm Studs!
 
What you describe is typical of the studs comming loose on the bottom of the knuckle, allowing the knuckle to dance around and eventually for the steering arm to fall of and the knuckle to fall off and the tire and.......:eek:
 
What you describe is typical of the studs comming loose on the bottom of the knuckle, allowing the knuckle to dance around and eventually for the steering arm to fall of and the knuckle to fall off and the tire and.......:eek:

Holy sxxx! Hey Dan. Since he lost grease, how do you "re-fill" it?
 
What you describe is typical of the studs comming loose on the bottom of the knuckle, allowing the knuckle to dance around and eventually for the steering arm to fall of and the knuckle to fall off and the tire and.......:eek:

OH MY GOD! THIS WAS IT! I just looked and one nut and bolt is gone! The other nut is loose and there's a 1/2 inch gap! :eek:

OK...so I need a bolt. How does that bolt get in there? from inside the housing? What do we need to do? THANKS!
 
Pull that side down as you would a regular axle service and go through it.
 
Oooh! Good call, Dan!!!!

It's a stud, and if you call Dan, you can get the new style that lets you tighten it from the outside as it's a Torx tip. So, it could be as simple as replacing the missing stud and tightening the other 3 nuts on their studs.

However, if it's come quite loose, then other things could be damaged and the axle seal torn or damaged. I'd say the odds are with this scenario. Coupled with the 40,000 miles on this repack I'd recommend repacking it at this point.

Again - nice catch Dan.


DougM
 
The inner seal is going to be trashed, as well as the ball wiper and the trunion bearings. It needs to be pulled clear down and re-done.
 
The inner seal is going to be trashed, as well as the ball wiper and the trunion bearings. It needs to be pulled clear down and re-done.

OK...what about those studs/bolts? Do I need a new housing or can I replace the stud?

And lastly....if a good mechanic had just the FSM and the parts, do you think he'd do a good job despite never doing an 80 axle?
 
Guys here who have never done one before do them all the time. Studs are serviced.

Do it yourself and learn that axle. The knowledge will come in handy later.
 
Wait a minute.
He said his sons 93 blew.
You need to supervise your son being the grease monkey.
I did my 96 and found it very rewarding. (30k miles ago no problems)
Gather the usual threads and print them out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276 (notice #22)
and
http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/birfield_repack/repack.html
(notice Tricky little studs)
FSM is great for the torque specs
Plan a weekend with your son and have fun telling him what to do.
He will be very greasy so your clean hands can read ahead and keep him going.
 
Wait a minute.
He said his sons 93 blew.
You need to supervise your son being the grease monkey.
I did my 96 and found it very rewarding. (30k miles ago no problems)
Gather the usual threads and print them out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=78276 (notice #22)
and
http://www.safari4x4.com.au/80scool/tech/birfield_repack/repack.html
(notice Tricky little studs)
FSM is great for the torque specs
Plan a weekend with your son and have fun telling him what to do.
He will be very greasy so your clean hands can read ahead and keep him going.

That's a great idea! Thanks for that. And he is good! He rebuilds BMX bikes 24/7 and is expert at it. What a friggin superb idea! :beer: :beer: :beer:
 

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