Help running wire (1 Viewer)

[mjeckell]

I just bought a Kicker hideaway subwoofer with built in amp and it will be mounted under the driver seat. Does anyone have experience running the wires to the head unit? I would like to see if someone can give me some info on what worked for them. I also need to run a positive wire to the battery. Can I get away with splicing it to the positive hot red wire instead or is this a bad idea? I have not removed the seat as of yet. I know it will fit under there. I am assuming there is a harness under the seat for the seat controls. Should I just follow that or somehow dive into the the center console and or the shifter area going under the carpet and up the side? Any help will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Rusty Marlin]

Between the new head unit and the Ham radio I ran a bunch of new wiring behind the dash and up the left side of the rig.
I used steel (iron) mechanics wire as a fish to get wires across the dash from the driver's kick panel to the new head unit. I figured out how long the bundle was before fishing it across the space and put them in a loom Amazon product ASIN B07TWB5MKD to keep them organized. In the loom is my GPS, power for the aux input antenna module thingy ( Amazon product ASIN B002U5XPBE), back up camera wire and dash cam wire.

To get power to the HAM unit under my seat, I came directly off the battery through a loom and back through the grommet in the fire wall; pulled the left kick panel and door sill trim, zip tied my wires to the truck's loom and ran these two up under the seat following the power seat harness.

The back up camera wiring started at the left rear quarter panel, and I removed all the door sill trim and ran it all the way up behind the left kick panel where that wire joins the loom going across the dash to the head unit. My HAM antenna wire comes in through the top the left rear door and dives behind the B Pillar trim panel, down to the floor and under the driver's door sill trim and follows the HAM power/ground and seat harness to the HAM radio.

Hope that helps.

 

[enox]

I think you should run your power from the battery, so it does not affect another circuit/ share load.

Subs / amps draw quite a bit and I'd be worried if you used a hot that is an insufficient gauge causing melting or other issues.

It's a good time to pull a hot/ ground from the battery then set a sub panel somewhere inside, you can use for distribution.

I think over time your interior power needs will grow and it will be nice to have a good source already inside.

Not that hard to get from the head unit over to the driver's side. Just pull the 4 screws on the lower kick panel then the 4 screws holding in the center instrument panel. Fish over and you're good...

HTH

 

[retrofive]

I ran power direct to battery (fused close to the battery) via the door plastic cover up through the FW. The connection the HU ran under the center console straight through and up to the unit.

 

[Rwhat]

Old bicycle cable sheathing works great to help pull wires. While you are at it, add extra wires hot and ground to the switch pop outs to near the battery. This will save you the hassle of fishing wires and taking apart the dash every time you add a new switch.

 

[MoJ]

Read your amp manual regarding power usage and recommended wire gauge. Any positive you tap into will likely be too small. Go directly to the battery and place a fuse as close to the battery as possible.

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