Help Required - Drivetrain Parts needed

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Entaran

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Feb 28, 2006
Threads
17
Messages
436
Location
Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
Website
www.team4g.com
Hi guys,

As some of you are aware, I have a HZJ75 cruiser (1991 model) with a recently rebuilt 4.2 litre 1hz engine. I've run into a bit of a brick wall in that the new engine is putting out so much torque (465Nm @ wheels w/o turbo) that it keeps shearing rear hub assemblies after about 5000km on a new one. I'm now upto my 5th. It shears both left and right, but one at a time.

I desperately need to track down a heavier duty rear end for it. I am prepared to replace it from wheel to wheel diff & all if it needs to be done.

This car TOWS, and DRIVES NORMALLY. It is NOT a trail rig, it RARELY see's mud or offroad work, please don't direct me at hardcore offroad stuff!

My mechanic has suggested swapping the rear and front end's from a 2005 79 series (coil front end and all), but the pricetag is around $4000 give or take.

I am in AUSTRALIA and will need parts preferably that are local as shipping drivetrain parts that are extremely heavy is extremely costly.

I will appreciate your prompt replies!

Cheers,
Lawrence
 
Hi your HZJ75 has the 9.5" full floater does it not? if it does I am afraid you have the strongest that is oem for a Landcruiser. Are you rebuilding it yourself or are you using the same mechanic.!? I would get another opinion on this because I dont know F-all according to many

p.s isnt the 75 and 79 both rated at oneton if so then someone want you to spend money that you dont need to
 
Wow, so you are using hardened pins and oem studs??? Or is it shearing something else?? It just doesn't sound right to me - and that is without a turbo?? Are they installed and torqued correctly? There are guys running the outback and other challenges with alot of torque and HP who never snap those hubs - sounds like something is not right. OEM studs or aftermarket studs?? Are you using hardened studs??

My only suggestion is the same as the mechanics - the HZJ79 rear end is built alot heavier than the older one - 5 lug, larger diameter hubs, bigger brakes, bigger axles etc etc. You can keep the same front end you have but you will need 2 spares - a 6 and 5 lug type. I have an HZJ79 and like the heavy duty rear end. If you need a locker for it you can get one from a 100 series.

Good luck with it.
 
That was what I was afraid of.

We have a thought that it's diff related (some form of lockup intermittently or something who knows). Basically it shears all 8 pins that hold the hub assembly to the axle, the cap falls off and you can pull the axle out in 1 piece (perfect, no damage) with your hands... put a rag in the hole, lock it in 4x4 and keep driving on the front diff.

We are seriously looking at swapping the front end over to the coil front end 79 and putting 79 rear end under it. Any threads on here on swapping a 75 to a coil front from a 79?
 
Have you visually checked the diff? Almost sounds like the it has been welded up to make a full time locker.
These can take much more power than your souped up 1HZ can offload.

(was that your canopy on ebay a few weeks back?)
 
Negative on my canopy.

Diff is definately not welded, infact it barely engages the LSD at all.

Hubs are OEM items, new washers & pins & studs everytime. All torqued as per Mr. Toyota says.

Toyota Australia is at a loss, they said "That can't happen. Not Possible." unquote.... this is #5. *cry*
 
Entaran said:
........., new washers & pins & studs everytime. All torqued as per Mr. Toyota says.
Click to expand...

You're saying "washers" ..........make sure this are CONICAL-washers and not ordinary flat washers.
 
Entaran said:
Guys, i'm not a complete ****ing idiot. Of course they're the cone washers.
Click to expand...
Okay, okay, but sometimes the obvious is overlooked...;p

When I'm off-roading I've 33's on my rig. My engine is the same as your's. Every now and then the rig is heavily loaded and I'm in low gear. Despite that I've never had a shear. The drive-shafts have been out several times (lockers, oil-rings replacement). So they are not in their 'original' state.
The only time I've seen a sheared connection was when they forgot to torque the bolts. I have seen snapped shafts though.
To my opinion there must be something wrong in the way you've (your mechanic) put things together. Of course this is not done willingly, but makes it so hard to find.
I cannot believe this is caused by the engine torque, unless the engine is putting out a lot more than standard, but my understanding is that the engine is still standard.
As an example: One of my friends runs a tubo-ed 73 with 33's and he is hard on his rig but he never has a problem like you are having.


We're swapping the entire rear end, drum to drum with another warrantied rebuilt one. See if the problem persists.
Click to expand...

Just one question. Shearing the studs, did this start spontaniously or after maintenance. In other words is there a moment that you changed things (i.e. starting towing more heavy loads, exchanged rear wheelbearings) and if so was that related to driving the rig or maintenance.

Anyway, let's hope exchanging the rear end solves the problem
 
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Mate there has got to be something wrong with your rear end to be causing this. No way a non turbo 1HZ has enough grunt to shear the studs, unless maybe your side stepping the clutch at peak rpm and a sticky road with 12.5'' of rubber underneath! Have you checked that everything is square and flat? That the diff flange is sealing flat against the hub ? Maybe the housing is bent, causing the axles to be torqued up all cock eyed and once your moving they flex that little bit then eventually bang! I've seen some blokes to stupid stuff with full floater rear ends ie wheels spinning flat out in the air then back onto solid ground and traction and not break anything!

cheers
 
My nonturbo 1hz puts out 465Nm of torque at the WHEELS. I drive like a normal person and yes, i'm beginning to think my mechanic = EPIC FAIL.

He just cost me 5000 dollars on my racecar, the engine failed last night in very spectacular fashion because he did a rushjob on it. Course I can't pin that on him so now i'm stuck paying his bill and my own rebuild costs.

I'm taking the car to Toyota and telling them to fix it. Fxxxing don't care what it costs anymore, i'm sick of independent workshops.. the whole fxxxing lot of them are cheating cunts.
 
Sorry to hear your story Entaran.
Hope you'll back on the road soon!!
 
Entaran said:
I'm taking the car to Toyota and telling them to fix it. Fxxxing don't care what it costs anymore, i'm sick of independent workshops.. the whole fxxxing lot of them are cheating cunts.
Click to expand...

Isnt there any diff and gearbox specialists in Ballarat? Toyota will slip it into you
 
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