Help Requested With Wheel Hub Reinstallation (1 Viewer)

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rc50cal said:
The bearing is the correct part number and the race is wrong. Now, the question is what is the best course of action?

1) Use the new bearing with the old race?
2) Find a new, correct race? Is there any potential problem with using an "unmatched" new race and bearing?
3) Get an entirely new matched race and bearing and leave the truck in pieces until it arrives?
Click to expand...
Why not contact cruiserteq (@cruiseroutfit) to confirm bearing race part number?
 
Planning to tackling this same project Tue/Wed this coming week with the same CruiserTeq bearings. I'll update here if you're still having issues so we can compare.
 
Ok, so I put the old race in, greased everything up, and pulled the spindle out with a bolt and my fingers. Snap ring went on easy-peasy.
 
No need to apologize! The ring WAS deceiving and it was hard to take good enough photos. I might pull the wheel off and check the bearing race again to make sure there are NO grooves. It looked good to me but I don’t want to wear out these bearings super fast.

ramangain said:
My apologies. I compared your photos with others. The dark ring around the race deceived me, and probably others. It looks like the race isn't buried deep enough, but it probably is. Again, my apologies.

Next thing to try is fully torque down the hub flange bolts, with cone washers and washers installed, to ~40 lb-ft (IIRC) and then use the Forger tool by placing the standoff bolts on the hub flange, not the hub flange bolts.

If that STILL doesn't fix the issue, we can try Skype-ing so I can try to see real time and have you take some measurements on the fly. I have a whole spare spindle/hub assembly in my garage that is working, that I can disassemble for comparison .... if it gets that far.

OR you can use the old race if it has no grooves in it on the surface that contacts the bearing, and I mean no grooves ... especially if you need to get the rig on the road again ASAP.
Click to expand...
 
rc50cal said:
I did contact them. Not expecting a response until Monday.
Click to expand...

We'll get you a different race sent out Monday!

Unfortunately we found out a small number of Timken wheel bearings were misboxed by Timken. We thought it was isolated but we've now found 2 customers that they shipped to (sorry :( ) We'll get with you Monday morning to resolve!
 
LndXrsr said:
Planning to tackling this same project Tue/Wed this coming week with the same CruiserTeq bearings. I'll update here if you're still having issues so we can compare.
Click to expand...

Which bearings did you order? Koyo's are a 100% non-issue. If Timken I would definitely ask you to inspect the inner wheel bearing race, it should end in a 10. Now that we've heard of an additional case (this thread) of misboxed bearings, we are going to send out an email to everyone that's ordered a Timken kit in the last ~4 weeks to check their races.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
Which bearings did you order? Koyo's are a 100% non-issue. If Timken I would definitely ask you to inspect the inner wheel bearing race, it should end in a 10. Now that we've heard of an additional case (this thread) of misboxed bearings, we are going to send out an email to everyone that's ordered a Timken kit in the last ~4 weeks to check their races.
Click to expand...
I ordered Koyo. Timken was out of stock...guess I can be glad for that now.
 
cruiseroutfit said:
Which bearings did you order? Koyo's are a 100% non-issue. If Timken I would definitely ask you to inspect the inner wheel bearing race, it should end in a 10. Now that we've heard of an additional case (this thread) of misboxed bearings, we are going to send out an email to everyone that's ordered a Timken kit in the last ~4 weeks to check their races.
Click to expand...
Hi Kurt, thank you for being a great resource for this community.

I ordered 2 of the Timken bearing kits from you. Both inner races end in 11. I took the passenger hub apart as well to check.
 
Last edited:
rc50cal said:
Hi Kurt, thank you for being a great resource for this community.

I ordered 2 of the Timken bearing kits from you. Both inner races end in 11. I took the passenger hub apart as well to check.
Click to expand...
Copy that, will get on it first thing tomorrow and get you a set of the correct races out asap. Fortunately Timken is being very responsive on solving this boxing issue.
 
ramangain said:
My apologies. I compared your photos with others. The dark ring around the race deceived me, and probably others. It looks like the race isn't buried deep enough, but it probably is. Again, my apologies.

Next thing to try is fully torque down the hub flange bolts, with cone washers and washers installed, to ~40 lb-ft (IIRC) and then use the Forger tool by placing the standoff bolts on the hub flange, not the hub flange bolts.

If that STILL doesn't fix the issue, we can try Skype-ing so I can try to see real time and have you take some measurements on the fly. I have a whole spare spindle/hub assembly in my garage that is working, that I can disassemble for comparison .... if it gets that far.

OR you can use the old race if it has no grooves in it on the surface that contacts the bearing, and I mean no grooves ... especially if you need to get the rig on the road again ASAP.
Click to expand...
24 lb*ft for the flange nuts. Fresh in my head since I did them yesterday. :)
 
Cruiseroutfit got new races, lock washers, oil seals, and hub gaskets to me in two days. Thank you!

Looking on the bright side, I’m now quite proficient at taking apart the front hubs and dealing with bearing races.
 
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