Help on pricing a 74 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Nov 6, 2013
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Location
NW Georgia
74 with PS added. I am thinking about buying it but everyone thinks the price is too high. These things are hard to find in GA and this is one of the best ones I have found. The price is 8500 and its on a car lot(which is bad). I have never owned one of these but always wanted one so I do not know alot about them. I am learning more every day. Anyway here are a few pics. Give me some opinions please.

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Early through 73-74ish has thicker metal but a three speed and 1f. I think late 74, early 75 went to thinner steel bit gradually improved the drivability...e.g. 4 sp, no more points, front buckets vs front bench. Then in 79 on through 83, gearing changed for more highway friendly speeds. Some even got factory PS.
I personally like the older stuff. I've owned a few over the years... I love my 1f and three on the tree (1971). You can improve the older ones tastefully while keeping its vintage integrity.
Where are you located?
Daniel
 
This particular one is a transitional model.... early front turn signals and later rear. Probably has the "F1.5 that mixes components between the outgoing F and incoming 2 F.
Again, the BIGGEST thing to avoid is cancerous rust.... which most have. Comb through CL in CA, NV, AZ...etc.
 
How closely have you looked at the frame? Does not look bad, price it a little high. Does it have drum or disk brakes, is it a 3 or 4 speed, vacume operating transfer case? These are all important because they cost money and time. I was looking at a clean 72 but was planning on changing the engine to a 2f, install a 4 speed, disk brakes. That all adds up, purchased a 1980 fj40 instead. If your labor is free that is a big thing. Just my 2cents.
 
The first pic looks like oil is running down the frame and rust through on the passenger side rocker.
Tell them you will give them 6 if there is no rust and explain that the transitional year makes it difficult to source parts. I bet they won't know the difference. ;)
If it is solid it looks like a decent truck because it appears unmolested. $8500 is too high for that truck.
 
There is one in Kathleen, Ga just south of Macon on CL for $5500 looks to have same ust spot but good otherwise from pics.
 
I saw this 40 at a shop in Cumming a week ago. I stopped to take a look at it - not worth the price. It's pretty clean, but not worth $8,500.
 
This FJ40 is in North West Ga. Just South of Chatt Tenn. It is a 1.5 with a 4spd. The oil is from a bad mechanic that let oil run down there. The PS is leaking. The engine has a miss and they think its because of the carborator. It does have all 4 drum brakes. Here is a few more pics. I talked to him today and he said 8200 is his bottom dollar.

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At Pickle Dixon's old place? Or father north? If it is on any of the Hwy41 car dealers you are probably not going to get a deal and anything you pay will be too much. I don't trust any of 'em. I think I know that truck. It used to have a confer fuel tank in it and the switch was to the right of the steering wheel where that hole is in the dash that has nothing in it. I think. Maybe.

Get BGarcia to meet you out there and help look at it if you have doubts. He lives up there. I'm in Rome and work up there regularly.
 
Well, I stopped by the lot again to check on the 74 fj40 and he said he has spent about 300 bucks on it since I came in last on a clutch slave cylinder and other parts. I told him I would be in the 74 for about 7500.00. I think I made him mad. He said I would not get that one for that. I guess I will have to let it go. It still doesn't run well. He said it runs great until it warms up( about 3 miles down the road) and then it spits and sputters real bad. He has replaced everything he can think of. Hasn't figured it out yet. Opinions??, Thoughts??
 
Well, I stopped by the lot again to check on the 74 fj40 and he said he has spent about 300 bucks on it since I came in last on a clutch slave cylinder and other parts. I told him I would be in the 74 for about 7500.00. I think I made him mad. He said I would not get that one for that. I guess I will have to let it go. It still doesn't run well. He said it runs great until it warms up( about 3 miles down the road) and then it spits and sputters real bad. He has replaced everything he can think of. Hasn't figured it out yet. Opinions??, Thoughts??

Situation
  • Asking price is 8500 and not running properly
  • You offered 7500 and he was offended

Sounds like the salesman is frustrated and re-acting accordingly. Rather than walk away, maybe you could check back with him after he has had time to regain his composure and perspective.

With regard to the running problem; Does it also spit and sputter once the truck is fully warmed up but stationary? I am wondering out loud ... if it does not spit & sputter once warmed up in the driveway, wouldn't that indicate a carb issue at higher fuel & air flows? If it spits and sputters once fully warmed up (stationary or down the road ~3 miles), my thoughts drift to an intake leak opening with heated parts. But this is nothing better than a WAG on my part. Experienced and knowledgeable mechanics will be of more use to you.
Good luck.
 
Well, I stopped by the lot again to check on the 74 fj40 and he said he has spent about 300 bucks on it since I came in last on a clutch slave cylinder and other parts. I told him I would be in the 74 for about 7500.00. I think I made him mad. He said I would not get that one for that. I guess I will have to let it go. It still doesn't run well. He said it runs great until it warms up( about 3 miles down the road) and then it spits and sputters real bad. He has replaced everything he can think of. Hasn't figured it out yet. Opinions??, Thoughts??

Head. He do a compression check on it?
 
It still doesn't run well. He said it runs great until it warms up( about 3 miles down the road) and then it spits and sputters real bad. He has replaced everything he can think of. Hasn't figured it out yet. Opinions??, Thoughts??

Very likely causes are loose manifold and carb base nuts - snugging them up should be part of every tune-up. I have fixed dozens of Cruisers with that simple fix.
Leaky gaskets at those points - intakes can be tested with a squirt of carb cleaner - the engine will surge. A bad condenser is possible, but it usually needs to get pretty hot for that to show up - like a half hour.
 
Very likely causes are loose manifold and carb base nuts - snugging them up should be part of every tune-up. I have fixed dozens of Cruisers with that simple fix.
Leaky gaskets at those points - intakes can be tested with a squirt of carb cleaner - the engine will surge. A bad condenser COIL is possible, but it usually needs to get pretty hot for that to show up - like a half hour.

Sorry, I meant COIL, not condenser....
 

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