Update 1: Striking through the information that was invalid or not correct from the Advanced Auto Tester. I have confirmed in a post below the true numbers (Post 13). It appears we are working with a parasitic load - unsure of how to proceed now that I have identified a circuit drawing Amps while car is at rest (10A Dome circuit is drawing 0.18A - somewhere else on the blue wire of the fusible link FL AM1 1.25B there is an additional load of 0.4-0.5A but that can't be located).
Go outside today and truck just clicks. Hit the starter with a hammer and trys to turn over but can’t. Get a jump and drive over to the parts store. Using advanced autos tester the alternator is charging and the starter is working.Battery reads bad and low voltage - charges up when running - after a minute after turning off drops again. Its an interstate group 24 battery (supposedly the one for my truck with 600 CCA - MT24). Battery test says battery puts out 450CCA after 2 months of use. Truck currently has no electrical accessories beyond a viper security system that replaced the old crappy oem one. Is it really just crappy luck and I really did get another bad battery or is there a larger issue? Help?
Edit: The battery is draining while the car is parked. Parasitic draw is in question - Alternator and battery tested good. Battery is sitting at 13.3 Volts when car is off after driving for a while. When cranking shoots up to 14.3 volts with accessories off - alternator appears to be in good shape. With load on electrical system voltage is steady at 13.74 volts.
Edit 2: I want to fully clarify the vehicle has a completely stock electrical system with minor upgrades. This is a 1993 Toyota Land Cruiser. Coming off of the battery is only one load - a relay/fuse box. That has been confirmed to be drawing 0.0A at rest. The vehicle had its crappy oem alarm removed and replaced with a viper system. There is an aftermarket stereo but the draw only occurs on the ignition circuit so no issue here. No external amps/speakers. There is no trailer harness. ABS Light is on but on an unrelated circuit to the one drawing the parasitic load. The winch that was on the vehicle has been removed for a little bit of time now. The battery should still be under warranty - but I don't intend of replacing it until the root of the issue has been solved.
Go outside today and truck just clicks. Hit the starter with a hammer and trys to turn over but can’t. Get a jump and drive over to the parts store. Using advanced autos tester the alternator is charging and the starter is working.
Edit: The battery is draining while the car is parked. Parasitic draw is in question - Alternator and battery tested good. Battery is sitting at 13.3 Volts when car is off after driving for a while. When cranking shoots up to 14.3 volts with accessories off - alternator appears to be in good shape. With load on electrical system voltage is steady at 13.74 volts.
Edit 2: I want to fully clarify the vehicle has a completely stock electrical system with minor upgrades. This is a 1993 Toyota Land Cruiser. Coming off of the battery is only one load - a relay/fuse box. That has been confirmed to be drawing 0.0A at rest. The vehicle had its crappy oem alarm removed and replaced with a viper system. There is an aftermarket stereo but the draw only occurs on the ignition circuit so no issue here. No external amps/speakers. There is no trailer harness. ABS Light is on but on an unrelated circuit to the one drawing the parasitic load. The winch that was on the vehicle has been removed for a little bit of time now. The battery should still be under warranty - but I don't intend of replacing it until the root of the issue has been solved.
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