Help on "how to set the preload on FJ40 TC rear output shaft" (1 Viewer)

[allesad]

Background:
My 1978 FJ40 4spd rear TC output shaft/ebrake has slop and leaks. (Truck as 48K miles)
A new OEM seal and FIG (Form a Gasket) on the splines + Speedy Sleeve did not fit the leak.

I read on the forum that either the bearing is worn or out of spec. HOW DO I CONFIRM THIS?

My thought was to reset the preload. HOW DO I DO THIS?

I found the shim P/N's and the thicknesses vary from .10->.25 HOW DO YOU KNOW WHAT SIZE TO USE?

Any help appreciated! Got a Club Ride coming up in Mid May,

THX

 

[ToyotaMatt]

you did NOT coat the male and female center splines of the drum and out put shaft with the FIPG did u ?


- i ALWAYS simply use a generous amount here and there

- if NOT u will have a CENTER NON seal related leak




- lastly , do u have the ORIGINAL staked NUT hex for the drum ?




id so simply RETURN it to the original location of the punch stake and re-stake , then NO need to fret about the pre load topic ..........

 

[B y r o n]

I think you need to track down a FSM of some sort before tearing things down. The manual will explain how to measure bearing preload. In my opinion, unless you are rebuilding the transfer case and replacing the bearings, don't bother. Matt covered the fix for one of the common leak fixes.

 

[allesad]

ToyotaMatt THX for the quick reply.

you did NOT coat the male and female center splines of the drum and out put shaft with the FIPG did u ? I COATED THE FEMALE ONLY


- i ALWAYS simply use a generous amount here and there...OK WILL DO BOTH MALE AND FEMALE NEXT TIME

- if NOT u will have a CENTER NON seal related leak




- lastly , do u have the ORIGINAL staked NUT hex for the drum ?...I RETORQUED TO 100 Ft. LBS and staked it at that point. Most likely not at the original location.




id so simply RETURN it to the original location of the punch stake and re-stake , then NO need to fret about the pre load topic ..........

Bryon. I go the FSM. See below. Any idea on determining which shim? Trial and Error (e.g measure?)

 

[B y r o n]

If you read your FSM you will see that the bearing preload is determined before additional parts are assembled. Bearing preload will be different with the case fully assembled. This is why I commented about not bothering with the preload and simply address your leak.

It is a trial and error method setting the preload and shops will usually have the assortment of shims to try.

 

[pb4ugo]

Where's it leaking? Is it the seal or splines? If its at the splines, I like using non hardening sealant on that type of application.

 

[allesad]

Away from the truck for a week ,remove the ebrake and check. . THX

 

[65swb45]

Yes, there is trial and error involved. And yes you need a stack of different shims and a micrometer ( and a pen/paper to take notes of stack thickness.)
The real advantage that shops have, besides having a stack of shims on hand is experience as to an approximate shim stack based on slop, so we don’t have to spend as much time being incremental.

 

[allesad]

Away from the truck for a week ,remove the ebrake and check. . THX

I have it apart. The lead was at the bottom of the recent new seal. I ordered the Dual Seal Hosing from Georg at Valley Hybrid, and plan to reinstall with the next size up shim.

 

[65swb45]

I have it apart. The lead was at the bottom of the recent new seal. I ordered the Dual Seal Hosing from Georg at Valley Hybrid, and plan to reinstall with the next size up shim.

FWIW, I sell dual seal housings too. Just don’t get as much press about it.

 

[peesalot]

Hold up, something caused that leak, worn bearing, pitted/grooved seal surface. The double seal housing is a good product, yes you can adjust the preload when you install the new double seal rear housing, I would caution that simply adding preload to a bad bearing is a short lived bandaide. Check the seal surface to see if a little polish is in order and feel the rotation as you tighten the rear housing, if it gets ratchety thats bad. The splines at the drum can be sealed with a bit of silicone or permatex.
Another indicator of possible bearing failure is whats in the oil and bottom of tcase, drain, remove inspection cover and have a look in the bottom, I like to spray it out with brake clean thru the inspection cover while drain plug is out to see if any debris that is not normal comes out. A bit of silvery powderish stuff is normal.

 

[peesalot]

I will say I have had the dual seal housing in a standard case and in an orion for a long time ( Orion #100) no leaks. Great product, thanks Gary.

 

[Vandal FJ]

I am about to replace the seal... don't have the new shims... so rolling the dice. Wife wants this drive train swap finished and out of the garage! LOL But I will be following this!

 

[allesad]

I am about to replace the seal... don't have the new shims... so rolling the dice. Wife wants this drive train swap finished and out of the garage! LOL But I will be following this!

We got the dual seal installed, new shims, and a speedie sleeve. It all felt snug with no wobble. Now 20 miles later a drip from the ebake. Darn it. I am guessing it's the bearing. There was a lot of slivery dust on the drain plug.

Any thoughts on TC rebuilding on your own vs. Swap out for new(er) one?