HELP NEEDED tonight - Power Steering (possible screw up)

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Also forgot to mention I don’t have line wrenches. I’m going slow and steady with open ended wrench here. Do you really think these are needed?
 
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Also forgot to mention I don’t have line wrenches. I’m going slow and steady with open ended wrench here. Do you really think these are needed?
Eh, the fittings are really soft and strip easy. That's why you use them.

You may not be able to get it tight enough before it starts to strip the nut. Slow and steady.
 
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That look on your face is cause that gray s*** is still there. I had same experience at Mudraks, asked him and he said just do it till it don't leak. Neighbor had a flared fuel line on his model A that 15 guys couldn't get to not leak, had to start with new parts. I like to barley dress the corner where the flat transitions to slope on the brass pieces as it lets flare slide better IMO. do it evenly and carefully and if you look at inside of flare after first tightening you can see how much and where that shoulder is biting into flare if you don't see a slight line where that shoulder contacts thats a good match on the slope of fitting and flare, if you see a slight line where shoulder is contacing it should go all the way around if it isn't dress that shoulder. and by dress I mean a slight buff with sonething to chamfer that radius a bit. . If one side of that shoulder is biting and the other aint touchin thats yer issue. Try when alomst tight and you can still rotate hose/hardline a bit, I mean snug, rotate the hardline back and forth a few times , should be smooth but with some tightness, then suck er down.
 
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YES, the amount of torque needed on mine to get them set was enough to strip them with open end, even good ones, ask me how I know, yes vise grips work but some fined its hard to get vise grips on because of space. I say if you can get it with open end you are better than me with wrenches.
 
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That look on your face is cause that gray s*** is still there. I had same experience at Mudraks, asked him and he said just do it till it don't leak. Neighbor had a flared fuel line on his model A that 15 guys couldn't get to not leak, had to start with new parts. I like to barley dress the corner where the flat transitions to slope on the brass pieces as it lets flare slide better IMO. do it evenly and carefully and if you look at inside of flare after first tightening you can see how much and where that shoulder is biting into flare if you don't see a slight line where that shoulder contacts thats a good match on the slope of fitting and flare, if you see a slight line where shoulder is contacing it should go all the way around if it isn't dress that shoulder. and by dress I mean a slight buff with sonething to chamfer that radius a bit. . If one side of that shoulder is biting and the other aint touchin thats yer issue. Try when alomst tight and you can still rotate hose/hardline a bit, I mean snug, rotate the hardline back and forth a few times , should be smooth but with some tightness, then suck er down.

Excellent advice on the get it sort of snug then wiggle it back and forth to help form a seat.
 
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Ok so just to be CLEAR…with and only with line wrenches, it needs to be fairly torqued. Are we talking upwards like 50 ft lbs? More than that? Reason I ask is….well there is a reason here.
 
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Mother of god…I can’t be the only FJ freak looking for line wrenches….

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I'd say 50 and 1 good kick, like an 1/8 th turn, its that last 1/8 th turn where the magic happens. And your instinct on the cone bit and sanding were on target. If your bit fits that inner flare well it thins that flap, gotta be a somewhat fine grain cone tho. I think green, red to course IMO.
 
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OK Saturday we’re off to the races and spent some time this morning looking at the flared ends of the pressure line, sanding a bit (thank you @peesalot) - torquing it on and torquing it off and looking at the where marks and I’m feeling OK that I’ve got this thing meeting up with the brass seat correctly. But who knows… The biggest benefit I got today were these crows foot flared ends for ratchets and has worked really well in a tight spot. I’m also talking to about 37 foot pounds and may bump it up to 40 but holy cow is that tight.

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….. wheels up, Fill the reservoir with fluid and then started to turn the wheels 20 to 30 times again engine off cap off. Unfortunately I have overfilled it and the red stuff drained down the back of the Reservoir and freaked me out (!!!) but very happy that’s what it was. After a quick clean up and doing another 20 turns with wheels up… I started the engine under pressure and let it run for about 3 to 5 minutes turning the wheels again about 20 times - and lo and behold no red leakage so far. I’m gonna let the car sit now with the engine off cap off to top off the reservoir with fluid and then star to turn the wheels 20 to 30 times again….I need to Get some air out but I had no groans from the pump or the engine at all. How do you know the air is out and you are good to go? I have zero foam or bubbles.

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Resvior is not really going down much…clearly I must have a huge bubble as I had both lines off this system. Any pointers or recs? Was going by some bleeding instructions for a Saginaw system that was really well done as a guide, even though I have a mini truck system.
 

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