HELP NEEDED tonight - Power Steering (possible screw up)

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Speaking to the PO now and appears that there is in fact a brass 'seat' that goes inside the pump union cavity and box cavity. Says they are easy to fall out and it is possible that JTO sent both without these seats that are past of the pump and box. Toyota does not just sell these seats, but are included in rebuild kits for each. If this is the case, I will remove the lines, drain and inspect everything. I suspect the hose is fine and pump itself is fine....

Case in point: Power Steering Pressure Hose Bubble Flare – JT Outfitters - https://www.jtoutfitters.com/product/power-steering-pressure-hose-bubble-flare/

This is the pressure hose. I'm not sure what the end of your line looks like, but yes, in general there should be either a brass "seat" for older style or a an o-ring on the end of the line. Sometimes both. If the end of the line is all threads like a brake line, then you would need some sort of brass washer but yours doesn't look like that type of line based on the nut and what I can see.

Pull the line and take a pic of the end fitting.
 
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This is the pressure hose. I'm not sure what the end of your line looks like, but yes, in general there should be either a brass "seat" for older style or a an o-ring on the end of the line. Sometimes both. If the end of the line is all threads like a brake line, then you would need some sort of brass washer but yours doesn't look like that type of line based on the nut and what I can see.

Pull the line and take a pic of the end fitting.
I will do this as soon as I know if those brass seats will be delivered by the PO. Want to wait until then so I can plan out my day/week. Will repost here with pics.
 
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The leaks you show are not uncommon. Even when those fittings are tight they can leak. It is frustrating but you'll get them to seal. I had this happen at Gary's when he let me change my PS box at his shop, said take it loose , clean it up, check threads and reinstall, took a few tries. Yes it is a mess cause you have to drain system each time. Inspect seat inside and flare on pipe and use line wrenchs please.

IMO drain the atf and use Royal Purple synthetic, and thats just my opinion, not saying its better I have had good experiences with it.
 
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The leaks you show are not uncommon. Even when those fittings are tight they can leak. It is frustrating but you'll get them to seal. I had this happen at Gary's when he let me change my PS box at his shop, said take it loose , clean it up, check threads and reinstall, took a few tries. Yes it is a mess cause you have to drain system each time. Inspect seat inside and flare on pipe and use line wrenchs please.

IMO drain the atf and use Royal Purple synthetic, and thats just my opinion, not saying its better I have had good experiences with it.
If I used conventional ATF - would I need to flush with synth before hand? Again fluid in the pump and box, etc.
 
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This is the pressure hose. I'm not sure what the end of your line looks like, but yes, in general there should be either a brass "seat" for older style or a an o-ring on the end of the line. Sometimes both. If the end of the line is all threads like a brake line, then you would need some sort of brass washer but yours doesn't look like that type of line based on the nut and what I can see.

Pull the line and take a pic of the end fitting.
@rainingagain I think you win the golden ticket here....just got an update on some missing parts from the PS install....guess which parts are missing? More to come....
 
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Well here’s an update to my power steering woes… I started to take the lines off unfortunately I’m seeing a brass seat in the pump high-pressure side. See picture below. Moving down to the box you can see there are no brass fittings in there and I only had a leak with the top port, or the return line from the side of the Reservoir. I’m open to any suggestions here… Clearly I’m not sure if brass seats need to be in the box at this point.

Any help would be appreciated!

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Zjohnsonua

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Couple things:

Replace that return hose ASAP. That's fuel line. ATF will eat it in a hurry (looks to be already be softening and swelling). Go get some transmission hose. Right parts for the right job and all...

Those line flares need a mating flare to seal - this is the brass part you've been chasing. The end of the return hose flare looks like its been fretting against the pump body as it tries to seal - that's not going to work.

The pressure side connections look correct, but the pattern on the cone looks like it just hasn't been snugged up well. Are you using a line wrench or a regular open end to tighten these?
 
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Couple things:

Replace that return hose ASAP. That's fuel line. ATF will eat it in a hurry (looks to be already be softening and swelling). Go get some transmission hose. Right parts for the right job and all...

Those line flares need a mating flare to seal - this is the brass part you've been chasing. The end of the return hose flare looks like its been fretting against the pump body as it tries to seal - that's not going to work.

The pressure side connections look correct, but the pattern on the cone looks like it just hasn't been snugged up well. Are you using a line wrench or a regular open end to tighten these?
Another update… I just got back from a hydraulic hose specialist here near my home, and he said the pressure line looks fine, but he has seen this quite a bit and says how tight was the torque on the hose end. I said it was pretty tight he said that the brass she is going to be distorted it will not allow a proper seal and that is why you’re getting a leak between the two parts on the paint. Now the question becomes is how do I remove this brass thing from the pump. I tried to gently pry it out it and it feels like it’s in there… Is there a good way to remove this kind of fitting so I don’t have to remove the pump from the truck?

And thank you for the heads up on the fuel line… I felt fairly soft and I will replace that ASAP with your recommendation.

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Just an observation. The brass seat in the pump has a flat spot/shoulder at the top which is supposed to fit inside the flare, yours looks like it is too large dia. to let the flare contact the sloped surface of seat. How many times have you taken it loose and re installed ? 3 to 5 at a minimum. FWIW in 1 pic it shows some debris on flare, shouldn't be there. Looks like a little hair or something. Line wrenchs and do it 3 to 5 times, I bet it seals up. If they have never been together the multiple attempts will mate the seat & flare, just keep going, it will seal. do the ports in box have nipples at the bottom ? If so you may not need the brass seats, it is to hard to tell from pic what the shape of bottom of purt is, if it is just a square shoulder then you need the brass seats.
 
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Just an observation. The brass seat in the pump has a flat spot/shoulder at the top which is supposed to fit inside the flare, yours looks like it is too large dia. to let the flare contact the sloped surface of seat. How many times have you taken it loose and re installed ? 3 to 5 at a minimum. FWIW in 1 pic it shows some debris on flare, shouldn't be there. Looks like a little hair or something. Line wrenchs and do it 3 to 5 times, I bet it seals up. If they have never been together the multiple attempts will mate the seat & flare, just keep going, it will seal. do the ports in box have nipples at the bottom ? If so you may not need the brass seats, it is to hard to tell from pic what the shape of bottom of purt is, if it is just a square shoulder then you need the brass seats.
So to answer your question on the box, the prior owner just sent me these and found him in his toolbox so these clearly go in the steering box. I test fitted each and they fit really nicely and they made up correctly with the return line. Here’s a couple pictures of the return line coupler and the brass seat to give you an idea.

As far as the pressure line this was just installed not too long ago and it’s my first time actually removing it from the pump I know it was really over torqued and I’ve only used open and wrenches to get it off I will throw it on and throw it off 3 to 5 times and only using a two “flats” past hand taught each time.

I’m also attaching a picture of a close-up of the pump pressure and one more time so you can see angle and cleaned off any debris

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No o ring, get some scotchbrite or sand paper and get that gray stuff off that flare, make it shiny like the others. USE LINE WRENCHES, you need a certain amount of torque to press fit that flare against the seat, it is a small bit more you can get on it with line wrenches but it will give you enough to seat the flare properly, run them down with line wrenches a few times and see if you can't get them to not leak. Use a drop to wet the seat so the flare can mate up, they don't like to mate up when dry.
 
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No o ring, get some scotchbrite or sand paper and get that gray stuff off that flare, make it shiny like the others. USE LINE WRENCHES, you need a certain amount of torque to press fit that flare against the seat, it is a small bit more you can get on it with line wrenches but it will give you enough to seat the flare properly, run them down with line wrenches a few times and see if you can't get them to not leak. Use a drop to wet the seat so the flare can mate up, they don't like to mate up when dry.
What would you recommend is the appropriate amount of torque for a wrench especially on that pump pressure line. Right now I’m finger tight on it and I probably turn it about one more time full circle so it’s nowhere near the amount I had to use to get it off the first time. Looking for your guidance on this.
 
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I will say that when I did my Saginaw I was suprised at the amount of torque the pressure side to to get the flare to seat, After you get it to seat and not leak the amount of thightness is less because its seated,it just takes a lot more than you think to press that flare onto that seat,sanding, and multiple tries just makes it easier,I agree it takes more than you think it should, and I am gonna say it again,use line wrenches, go get them if you don't have them, using open end will only lead to using vise grip.
 
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Sounds like your about to be leak free! Agreed with @peesalot (LOL that name), no o-rings. With out those brass seats in the box, you would use the newer style line with a flanged end and an o-ring. I think they are called o-ring faced seals.

As far as torque, I don't think there is a spec. It's more by feel. You'll feel it get tight and seat. Then a little more snugness to really seat it in. It's probably around 150 PSI or so, so it needs to be fairly tight. It might take more than one try.

The newer style line I mentioned was created for a reason. It seats easier on the o-ring.
 
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I also decided to change the direction of the hose so it’s going upwards. The original way was to the left and it was bonding against coolant lines and not really sitting really flat hard to describe but this seems like the better way to do it

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