Help! My 80 ihas a temper. (1 Viewer)

[97 40th]

Just changed the HG on my 1997 cruiser. Started up and ran fine yesterday. Drove it to work this morning(10 miles) and when I pulled into my work parking lot it started sputtering like it was out of gas and died. It wouldn't start again. The CEL came on shortly before all this took place.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

 

[B Legit]

How long did you let it run after the HG work? The FSM specifies an ECU re-calibration period which involves starting and stopping your engine multiple times and driving at different RPM's and patterns after your battery has been unplugged for a bit of time. Going to need more information about the conditions, and what you replaced. Don't get too psyched out, you just got done breaking and making abunch of connections and the margin for error is high, ask me how I know.

 

[97 40th]

I let it idle for 15-20min and the drove it easily for about 2 miles and the shut it off for about 15min and the drove it home(about 2 miles). I got in it this morning and slowly got on the interstate at 70mph (7miles). Got off the enterstate running great. Drove it a mile off the interstate and the CEL came on and about a 100yrds it started sputtering. Then died. I hope this helps...........

Just went out and checked most of the sensors. All good. Tried starting and no luck.

 

[ClankBang]

what code/codes is it pulling.... I haven't done the head gasket but I did change my injectors and when I put it back together I had almost the exact same symtoms... turns out that one of the connectors on a injector had shaken loose.. I was pulling a misfire code so it was pretty easy to track which injector it was.

 

[B Legit]

what did you time it to? How is your AFM connection? Did you have to fuss much with the main harness where it passes by the egr valve?

 

[97 40th]

AFM?(excuse my ignorance) All sensors feel good. No problems with the harness around the EGR. Went together fairly easy after realizing that I could pull the studs out of the intake.

Also, didn't time it since it was running so good. It purr'd like a kitten. If I get it running again I will time it right away.

My brother is coming to pick it up with a trailer after work so we can take it home.

B Legit: How dig of deal is it that I didn't do the ECU re-calibration that is in the FSM???

 

[97 40th]

Anyone know the the process of how to re-calibrate the ECU??

 

[97 40th]

Would the local toyota dealer tell me how?

 

[B Legit]

I didn't follow the set ecu re-cal but I believe it is in the fsm. Almost positive you could find it with a search attempt here. When my headgasket went back together, one of my vaccum lines under the intake got sandwiched in between the upper and lower halves and created a massive vacuum leak. In that condition I tried to start it 10 or 15 times. Then we figured out what was wrong and corrected it and she fired right up and ran really nicely until the vehicle got to normal operating temp and the idle dropped and it died. We had to adjust the idle and timed to like 4 btdc and it ran like a top and has for a month now. AFM equals air flow meter and is the big sensor inline with you intake hose. I have heard that some people have unscrewed the two screws on the AFM sensor and ripped the wiring out. In order to remove that sensor wiring, you are only supposed to remove the little metal wire clip and pull the sensor. If I was you I would first jiggle the wiring harness next to the EGR and try to start. Then I would check that AFM connection just to be sure. Since you were running really well, I would have to assume that something has changed. When it changed for me was when I reached operating temp and my idle dropped. Based on your description it seems unlikely, that this is your issue but you gotta start somewhere.

 

[B Legit]

also, check codes and report back.

 

[97 40th]

B Legit: Thank you so much for your kind and very helpful input. It has been a long day. My brother came and picked me and the 80 up from work with a trailer and brought us home. Thank goodness for family! I just checked the AFM connection and seems to be solid and snug. I have not messed with AFM other than that. I have tried starting it multiple times and the CEL is gone. (???) Should it be showing up still even with the motor not started?

ClankBang: Haven't ran the codes yet because it hasn't been running to get it to a place where I can run the codes. I took your advice and checked all the connections to the injectors except for the one under the throttle body which I couldn't get to. Thanks for your help!

I am to the point where I am going to re-morgage the house and trailer it to the local Toyota dealership. I will keep you posted..........

Again, thanks B Legit and ClankBang!! Love this site!!!!!

 

[B Legit]

No problem Buddy, that is what is great about this place, we all help eachother out, it is recorded for future reference, and keeps going. Before you take it to the dealership, at least make sure that you have spark and fuel. Does it catch and start at all or just flat out crank with nothing at the end? Another thing that will cause a poor idle or innability to idle is a crack in the intake hose> major vacuum leak. This can easily happen during disassembly or reassembly. Check all of your vacuum connections to make sure that they are solid. Did you send your head to the machinist or just re-assemble with a new gasket? I take it this is your daily driver and you can't afford to give it a couple days of thought and response on here? MIght end up saving you a ton of money, after all it did run just this morning right?

 

[Ozdunc]

To get the CEL codes you need to jump the E1 and TE1 things in the Diagnostic port in the engine bay (double check the port numbers as I'm doing this from memory and its been a long day). Use a paper clip as the jumper.
Turn off the ignition, the CEL should flash and give you the code.

HTH

 

[Kernal]

My rig sat for a few months twice in the past year with the battery disconnected both times. The ECU relearned on it's own quickly and the engine never died after starting. I think it just runs a bit rich for a ?couple of drive cycles IIRC. The 1997 is OBDII so a code reader should be able to retrieve any stored codes. When my rig had a bad fusible link the engine would crank normally but not fire, and the check engine light would not come on (as it should) when I turned the key to ON.

 

[97 40th]

Thanks guys! Yes, it is my daily drive and I can't afford to let it sit. I had the head resurfaced at a local machine shop and the machinest said that he barely took any off since the head was in such good shape. It ran perfect Sunday and Monday morning! (Crazy) When I trun it over now it doesn't even sound like it wants to. I messed with it breifly last night but plan on hitting it hard tonight.

Here is the plan for tonight:
1.) Pull a plug and plug wire and turn over and make sure I am getting spark.
2.) Check all vacuum lines
Anything else??

Should I be able to hear the injectors cycling? ANyone have a picture of the E1 and TE1 prongs in the diagnostic port? I don't want to fry my ECU. Ha Ha Ha Be like pooring salt on the wound.

Kernal: Where was this bad fusible link?

 

[B Legit]

make sure you are getting fuel. Did you do a new filter while the thing was apart. It will be a simple fix once you find it.

 

[97 40th]

No, no fuel filter.

 

[Kernal]

97 40th: the fusible links are three short wires that come off the positive battery terminal. You said it sounds like it doesn't want to turn over: how does it crank, slow like a low/dying battery slow??

 

[Atticus]

B Legit: Thank you so much for your kind and very helpful input. It has been a long day. My brother came and picked me and the 80 up from work with a trailer and brought us home. Thank goodness for family! I just checked the AFM connection and seems to be solid and snug. I have not messed with AFM other than that. I have tried starting it multiple times and the CEL is gone. (???) Should it be showing up still even with the motor not started?

ClankBang: Haven't ran the codes yet because it hasn't been running to get it to a place where I can run the codes. I took your advice and checked all the connections to the injectors except for the one under the throttle body which I couldn't get to. Thanks for your help!

I am to the point where I am going to re-morgage the house and trailer it to the local Toyota dealership. I will keep you posted..........

Again, thanks B Legit and ClankBang!! Love this site!!!!!

Why don't you buy or borrow a code reader from someone and find out what's wrong BEFORE you take it to the dealership?

 

[Atticus]

To get the CEL codes you need to jump the E1 and TE1 things in the Diagnostic port in the engine bay (double check the port numbers as I'm doing this from memory and its been a long day). Use a paper clip as the jumper.
Turn off the ignition, the CEL should flash and give you the code.

HTH

That's for OBDI. He has OBDII.