Help me vet this 88 FJ62 236k miles (1 Viewer)

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Keep an eye on the mud classifieds vs sight unseen through a dealer. I think you can get something better and spend less without all the mystery.

Nevermind, just saw your wanted ad. ;)
 
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My point of view is from the perspective of someone that works on these trucks, top to bottom, every day at work. We are talking about a vehicle that is 30 plus years old. No matter how well it was maintained through it's life it still will have issues that require being addressed. Comparing it to any new vehicle for use as a DD is not a realistic comparison.

To really consider any vehicle that old as a DD, dependable, it needs to be totally refurbished from the ground up. ALL AT ONCE. Then it needs to be maintained just as if it were brand new and you wish to drive it another 30 years. If you just buy it and fix whatever is obvious right now you will be chasing all sorts of things that continue to go wrong. While this is not a real big issue for the majority of us that like old iron it can be a huge issue to someone expecting modern vehicle reliability from one.

All that in mind, $25K for a 30 year old vehicle that will be tasked with modern day DD etc. and is up to the job is actually rather cheap.
 
A very strong word of warming from a fellow Chicagoan: if you intend to drive this vehicle in Chicago during the winter be prepared for the salt to literally destroy every single metal part of it within a VERY SHORT period of time. I made the mistake of putting my California (mostly) rust free FJ62 through a few Chicago winters and much to my dismay I now have a basically rotted out rig sitting in my driveway. That's with regular car wash visits and rust prevention efforts. I have driven many, many different makes of cars and I have never seen a car rust out as quickly as this Toyota. Pure conjecture on my part, but it's almost as if the quality of steel that these were originally made out of was subpar or of a composition that's more susceptible to rust than normal. You can try to do all the anti-rust methods that exist (there's lots of posts here you can read up on), but you won't be able to escape the rust--it will pursue you relentlessly.

Also, I will strongly second the opinion above that unless you are mechanically inclined, and your intention is for this to be a daily driver, you (and your bank account) will quickly find yourself on the losing end of owning one of these. With 50 million vacuum lines, a sensor every two square inches of the engine compartment, and an increasing number of "No Longer Available" parts, the 62 is not the easiest thing to work on, and you will be hard pressed to find a mechanic who actually knows what they are doing when it comes to these trucks. Most "modern day" mechanics--particularly in the Chicago area where these trucks just don't exist any more (this isn't Oregon or Southern California)--will stare at you like you've brought them a '32 Dusenberg to work on. And you can forget about the Toyota dealer--the mechanics there weren't born when these trucks came out.

Definitely not trying to be a Debbie Downer, but just want you to know what you're getting into. If you still insist, buy a factory service manual and a tool set, start reading this board 3 hours a night, load up your bank account, and get off to the races. And DO NOT drive it in Chicago winters!

Good luck!
 
Turning a rust-free 62 into a rusty hulk is dumb.

Sorry.
 
I very much appreciate this perspective and honestly have been thinking along the same lines. This isn't a "flash in pan" sort of want and it won't hurt us at all financially. Perhaps I am getting off lucky that my mid-life crisis has a $25-30k price tag vs a Porsche or something. Just need to find the right one.
Amen! @theglobb posts should be a good read as an example.
 
A very strong word of warming from a fellow Chicagoan: if you intend to drive this vehicle in Chicago during the winter be prepared for the salt to literally destroy every single metal part of it within a VERY SHORT period of time.

Good luck!
Thanks for this. Been getting advice of frequent washes and fluid film annually but was still under a "just how bad could it be" mentality. So looks more like I should keep my Outback.
 
Amen! @theglobb posts should be a good read as an example.
Hey there, I'll elaborate a bit further on what I think Ceylon is talking about. I'm currently 19 with basically my dream rig, extremely lucky and blessed. Back in my sophomore year of high school after a lady pulled out in front of me and I tboned her, with insurance money I got a cheap 62 with 190,000 miles. Put about 15,000 miles on it in a year, alternator went out and I rebuilt the knuckles. That's it... It was my daily driver, I personally had no problem with the A/C being broke (albiet annoying in 100f at the beach where I'm from) or it riding like a horse-drawn wagon. I also went broke after driving it for a year cause I was already pretty broke and it got like 10 mpg on a good day, all my money from work went to gas. But holy crap the memories in that car are irreplaceable. So many good stories and experiences in that car with all my friends. Ended up selling it when I saw an LHD diesel BJ75 Troopy for sale for an absurdly low price, doesn't have A/C or power steering, and the 0-60 time before the turbo was 1 minute and 22 seconds... not joking. Anyways this is my dream rig... 20-25 mpg is sustainable for me. I've put about 17,000 miles on it since March of 2020, all that I did was rebuild the alternator, front knuckles, rear axle bearings and seals, and replace the suspension. This past summer I took it across the entire US, from NC to CA and back, some odd 9,500 miles with not a single mechanical failure or setback. If you rebuild what needs to be rebuilt/ replaced, these rigs will keep on trucking. The memories I've already made in this car are also amazing, just spectacular. The future will only have more and more amazing memories for this rig and I.
I love Land Cruisers, that's why I put up with all the inconveniences of driving a 30+year-old car on modern American roadways, I also don't have any other modern car I could drive since the troopy is my daily lol. It all depends on how deep you are into these things, I'm also young and still have a good back for now... many others don't thus making it much more tiring to drive these solid axle, leaf-sprung beasts.

These things are only going to keep increasing in value, I picked up my 62 for around 8k, and within a year and a half (plus adding 15,000 miles to it) I was able to confidently put it up for sale at 12.5k and get the money I asked for. Now in this market, I think I could confidently sell it for 15-17k, especially if put on BAT. More time you sit and wait on getting one will be more money you could've put to fixing one up, making it DD status. I'll put some photos below, some of the 62 and some of the troopy to try and visually persuade you;)

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Man, just going back to those photos of the 62 gives me much nostalgia, these old beasts have so much character compared to the risen and repeat, copy and paste, crossovers that litter the roads today. Wish you luck in purchasing the right cruiser for you and your family. If a 19-year-old with roughly 2 grand to his name can do this all, there's no way you shouldn't be able to either. Of course, there will be problems with any old car, it's just part of it. I started out knowing practically nothing about cars 3 years ago, these things are simple (most of the time) to repair and work on. Now if my engine went out, I'm confident I could rebuild it all, providing I had all the parts and proper tools.
Once you get one, get out there, make some memories (take some pictures while you're at it since these rigs look GOOD) and just have a fun time.


^^^More memories in video form, the places you will go in your cruiser will totally pay off any hardships it gives you
 
Alternative take: find a beater 62 that runs OK, and drive it all year round without worrying about it. Could possibly be just as fun if not more, without the price tag. But keep the Outback...
 
First appreciate all the input. Decided that I will def keep the Outback and am focused on a 62 which will be garage kept and will avoid salt.

Now this issue of finding one. Any input on either of these:

1. 1989 62 w/ 192k on it. Looks clean, would be $1500 or so to ship to me. Exact color I've always wanted. Paint rough in a few spots. New dash cap included.
Asking $32k


3. 1990 62 w/ 332k on it. Low mileage replacement engine, t-case, and transmission swapped at 300k. Steering, e-brake cable, front axle seals. Nasty gouge in rear pass quarter panel (said old owner hit mailbox). Will also be about $1500 to ship.
Asking $32.5k but said they'd do $30k.


Are either of these worth my interest? What are they worth price-wise?

Thanks for all the help!
 
When I was in high school and got my drivers license....circa 1993...one of my neighbors died and I bought her old 1977 International Scout II. It had the international 305 (iirc) V8 engine with a T727 transmission. It was slow, got 15 mpg almost all the time. It had some rust, it was creaky and squeaky, the steering was vague, had crank windows, lap belts, an am radio, and heat. It was my daily driver in high school and was reasonably reliable. But at the time I only had to drive maybe 10 miles a day. I took a few trips in the truck and I remember overall it was a lot of fun...I'm sure I'm forgetting all the little things about it that drove me nuts.

The point being the daily driving needs of a 19 yo may be less demanding such that an older car might be fine. It would be a different story if you have to be at work 30 miles away every day and take one kid to soccer practice and another to day care etc.
 
First appreciate all the input. Decided that I will def keep the Outback and am focused on a 62 which will be garage kept and will avoid salt.

Now this issue of finding one. Any input on either of these:

1. 1989 62 w/ 192k on it. Looks clean, would be $1500 or so to ship to me. Exact color I've always wanted. Paint rough in a few spots. New dash cap included.
Asking $32k


3. 1990 62 w/ 332k on it. Low mileage replacement engine, t-case, and transmission swapped at 300k. Steering, e-brake cable, front axle seals. Nasty gouge in rear pass quarter panel (said old owner hit mailbox). Will also be about $1500 to ship.
Asking $32.5k but said they'd do $30k.


Are either of these worth my interest? What are they worth price-wise?

Thanks for all the help!


If you are about to pay $30k for a FJ60/62 it better be perfect with nothing needed....or it better be well modified with lots of upgrades.
 
If you are about to pay $30k for a FJ60/62 it better be perfect with nothing needed....or it better be well modified with lots of upgrades.
While I agree, most people look at BAT and see similar ones going for $30-45k. Was watching one yesterday that went for $36k with an noted odometer rollback on the Carfax. Have not seen a dry mostly original one go for less than $30k.
I'd LOVE to spend less - just can't seem to find any.
 
a quick search on searchtempest:



This one seems a little high but then again market is constantly leaving perception behind

Here are two trucks that belong in the "Dreamers of the week" thread in the classifieds :)
 
While I agree, most people look at BAT and see similar ones going for $30-45k. Was watching one yesterday that went for $36k with an noted odometer rollback on the Carfax. Have not seen a dry mostly original one go for less than $30k.
I'd LOVE to spend less - just can't seem to find any.
1. Get your finances in order and be ready to go when you find the one
2. Be willing to hop on a plane to go have a look at a candidate....a $500 plane ticket might save you $30,000 if it turns out to be a piece of junk.
3. Be wary of scams. Cruiser prices up...along with higher priced trucks are ripe for people making a quick buck.
4. Be patient and be willing to walk away from a sale if it doesn't feel right.
5. Watch FB market place, CL, MUD, keep an eye open when out and about etc.

If you can find a sold truck with a clean frame for $10,000 and you have a $30k budget you've now got a great base to build from. If you spend $30k on a truck and after the fact realize its full of bondo, has a worked engine, and needs $10,000 in repairs.....
 
FYI - That second one for $26.5k is the truck I started this thread about. I emailed that first one about availability - I had not been searching CL, mostly FB Marketplace. Other I had seen but are a tad more trashed than I'd want.

Appreciate the help!

Here is another 89 w/ 265k miles that looks great in ad but follow-up pics showed a lot of rust. This one is $26.5k

 
1. Get your finances in order and be ready to go when you find the one
2. Be willing to hop on a plane to go have a look at a candidate....a $500 plane ticket might save you $30,000 if it turns out to be a piece of junk.
3. Be wary of scams. Cruiser prices up...along with higher priced trucks are ripe for people making a quick buck.
4. Be patient and be willing to walk away from a sale if it doesn't feel right.
5. Watch FB market place, CL, MUD, keep an eye open when out and about etc.

If you can find a sold truck with a clean frame for $10,000 and you have a $30k budget you've now got a great base to build from. If you spend $30k on a truck and after the fact realize its full of bondo, has a worked engine, and needs $10,000 in repairs.....

Appreciate the advice. Unfortunately flying will likely not happen so will have to rely on finding a local mechanic to do a pre-sale inspection. Beyond that I am searching often and have more than enough cash to cover it. Also waiting to hear back from our insurance agent to make sure there wouldn't be any coverage issues.
 
Appreciate the advice. Unfortunately flying will likely not happen so will have to rely on finding a local mechanic to do a pre-sale inspection. Beyond that I am searching often and have more than enough cash to cover it. Also waiting to hear back from our insurance agent to make sure there wouldn't be any coverage issues.
Coverage is unlikely to be a problem...however you'll want to get a plan based on an assigned value. There is a MUD thread about insuring cruisers by setting up a coverage that reflects an indicated amount...not just what some basic cost guide indicates.
 
Coverage is unlikely to be a problem...however you'll want to get a plan based on an assigned value. There is a MUD thread about insuring cruisers by setting up a coverage that reflects an indicated amount...not just what some basic cost guide indicates.
Yeah heard back and without VIN and juts a "89-90 Toyota Landcruiser" she said $300/yr to add to policy. Mentioned may need to do an assigned value and she said likely $500/yr. Regardless pretty minimal.
 
That all said, any input on the 2 more recent Cruisers posted and even the original one this thread started on? Outside of mechanical, any visual issues?
 

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