Help me identify this part! Where do these wires go to? (1 Viewer)

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Dec 29, 2022
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New Mexico
My 96 LC wasn’t starting, just cranking, no spark, I jiggled these wires and after a few cranks, my truck started. Where do these wires go? What do they connect to on the other end? How can I tell if the issue is with the wiring or the distributor? I found the connector online, but nothing tells me or shows me where the other end of these wires go to, just that u can splice into the wires, are they from the main harness? The wires run thru the valve cover area and then I loose th, any help will be appreciated!
CDB55271-23D3-4FBA-80C1-8452753F047B.jpeg
 
I downloaded one from this site, the issue is I can’t find where the other end of this wire is. It’s distributor sensor wire and labeled a few others, I can only find the pigtail to remake the connector
 
the electrical wiring diagram comes in a second booklet
 
My 96 LC wasn’t starting, just cranking, no spark, I jiggled these wires and after a few cranks, my truck started. Where do these wires go? What do they connect to on the other end? How can I tell if the issue is with the wiring or the distributor? I found the connector online, but nothing tells me or shows me where the other end of these wires go to, just that u can splice into the wires, are they from the main harness? The wires run thru the valve cover area and then I loose th, any help will be appreciated! View attachment 3209849


these wires go to the other ends of the wire harnesses .
 
Are they just part of the main wiring harness? By me wiggling them n be able to start my truck so I need to replace the connector?
 
Are they just part of the main wiring harness? By me wiggling them n be able to start my truck so I need to replace the connector?


how many terminal bays are in that connector housing ?

a 1FZ-FE dizzy should be a 4 pin input plug connector , but i don't have one handy to reference here at the laboratory at the moment

it looks like 4 but its VERY hard to tell ,

im NOT asking how many wires , the actual input cavities

they should be the same number , but ......
 
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So where they go doesn’t matter just as I swap the connector


well if you wiggle the connector and those wires and your 1FZ-FE starts , i will conclude you have successfully diagnosed

your issue you discuss in your initial thread post #1 ...


wouldn't you ?


unless you left out some important details matter detail , then why go sniffing around for other problem areas ?

you now know this is a problem you have , so repair it correctly the first time the right way , and life can continue

normally .

if you do for some remote reason have 2 related same in kind issues , then you will find out then ....


speculation and fretting does not fix your Land Cruiser , you do through direct concrete by the FSM approach step by

steps repair procedure

hence a new OEM service spec. connector pigtail assy ....


crimp , heat shrink , plug , play , done .....

it is that simple in this case if your wiggle the dizzy, connector plug and you get a concrete positive result ...


right ?
 
So where they go doesn’t matter just as I swap the connector
Where they go matters; in this case the wires are part of your main engine harness. They go throughout the engine bay and into the cab. You could have a short upstream of the plug. You should inspect and troubleshoot further.

How old are your distributor wires? Are you sure you’re not moving them while messing with the plug? I’d start with a visual inspection, looking for broken wires, chafing, and discrepancy. Then check your distributor wires. You have a blue distributor wire. Why is that? The rest are black. If they were OEM, they have a date on them. Check for the year. It could be past time to change those out
 
So where they go doesn’t matter just as I swap the connector


you repair 1 of these wires at a time so as not to get them mixed up

if you can wiggle this connector plug and your truck starts ?

then fix this first , then see if the issue goes away , going on a scavenger hunt for no reason YET , ?

why would you do this ?

there is no reason to till after you correct the known , confirmed and verified issue at hand


this is called toyota,s split half search method .....

the likely hood of you having a 2nd problem some where else , in addition to the broken dizzy connector is remote ,

it got broken by this chaffed cable rubbing up agenst it and pulling and cracking the spring loaded lock tab ...

i can see that clearly

use black zip ties and pull the cable away from the dizzy so it cant harm it further in any way

this make sense ?




see ,,,,,,,



CDB55271-23D3-4FBA-80C1-8452753F047B.jpeg
 
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Maybe start another thread so so more people can chime in with different issues.

(Sarcasm)
 
So just to clarify, I didn’t wiggle the wires, wiggled the whole connector, as a whole it was kinda loose, after jiggling it while the wife tries to start it fired up. So idk if it the connector on the dizzy side or the wiring side that is loose or causing no spark, after a few jiggles tho it has continued to fire up, the blue wire I exchanged to see if the old wire was bad, gonna redo the spark plugs, wires n dizzy cap n rotor, gonna do a visual inspection and take photos, bc I don’t think u can just replace the connector on the dizzy side bc it’s part of the whole distributor.
 
On my truck, the female terminals (inside of the plastic harness connector) were slightly deformed / not perfectly square.

You can gently try to move the distributor's male terminals with a tiny screwdriver. Odds are they won't move and you'll be able to shift your focus to the female side / wiring harness side.

FYI, beyond the FSM and EWD, there is a 3rd document you may eventually need. Mine is titled: "Power Source, Wire Harness Repair".

This doc requires a lot of patience to read but will help you purchase the correct replacement connectors and terminals.

However, I believe the distributor connector part number can be found on this forum via search. Since this is only 4 terminals, I believe I purchased Toyota OEM pigtail wires with the terminals already crimped on. I must have also found this part number via search as well. My only regret for this job was not replacing all 4 terminals at once.
 
*Edit - @jonheld corrected my memory la few posts down, all distributor connector wiring goes directly to the ECU and ignitor and coil are separate circuits. I trust him more than me. - Jason

In all seriousness, the wires from that connector go to the ECU and the ignitor, maybe the coil if I remember correctly, one or more being broken will result in no RPM signal to the ECU,, and / or no spark / signal from the ignitor. You may not have the RPM signal there since a 96 will have the crank sensor, IDK, I only have a 94. Either one, means it's not starting. It is not uncommon for them to break near or in the housing, especially after some work near it has bumped it, or it has been removed. Also as pointed out above, it has ben chaffed by other wires. No big deal to get a new connector with pigtail and repair, and will likely solve your problem. If you have the tool or can buy it, I am in the automotive wires get crimped with good barrel connectors, not soldered camp, but either way will work. If you really want to know where those go and how it works, the FSM does have troubleshooting instructions for diagnosing those very connections. I have been through them a few times.

Good luck !

Jason
 
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So just to clarify, I didn’t wiggle the wires, wiggled the whole connector, as a whole it was kinda loose, after jiggling it while the wife tries to start it fired up

We don't need to hear about your wiggling jiggling antics :rofl:



Get a multimeter... start the probing
 
if you want to get more ill-fitting aftermarket wires, go with different colors :idea:

(Sarcasm)
 

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