Help me decide on front end lift solution. (1 Viewer)

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I have a Garrison Bro’s Laguna Madre we can crack open.
As a native, 6th generation Texan, it pains me to say that I generally prefer Kentucky bourbons, but what the hell...
If it's discussing engineering, Land Cruisers, ham radio, and making fun of Sean, I guess I can lower my standards :D
The deal breaker may be, is Arizona Mexican food more Mex-Mex, Tex-Mex, New-Mex, or Cali-Mex?
 
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As a native, 6th generation Texan, it pains me to say that I generally prefer Kentucky bourbons, but what the hell...
If it's discussing engineering, Land Cruisers, ham radio, and making fun of Sean, I guess I can lower my standards :D
The deal breaker may be, is Arizona Mexican food more Mex-Mex, Tex-Mex, New-Mex, or Cali-Mex?
Mex mex :)

Texan native as well, el paso mex is the best
 
Lemme buy you a beer and we cab make fun of Sean’s grey hair
I'd prefer a nice bourbon, and I probably have more grey hair than Sean, but sure, why not...

I have a Garrison Bro’s Laguna Madre we can crack open.
If it ain’t cheap rot gut whiskey like Early Times then I don’t want it. Gotta stick to my hillbilly roots of zero refinement and classlessness. I have a reputation to uphold at this point in life, ya know?

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If it ain’t cheap rot gut whiskey like Early Times then I don’t want it. Gotta stick to my hillbilly roots of zero refinement and classlessness. I have a reputation to uphold at this point in life, ya know?

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Lets not forget You drive a 100 Series, you wanna be dentist

Whyd you have to move away
 
If it ain’t cheap rot gut whiskey like Early Times then I don’t want it. Gotta stick to my hillbilly roots of zero refinement and classlessness. I have a reputation to uphold at this point in life, ya know?

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OK, How about we compromise with a "1 per person", cheap ass ~$35 Weller Special Reserve, that is locked up with the $1k scotch?
 
Lets not forget You drive a 100 Series, you wanna be dentist

Whyd you have to move away
But I have a $hitbox stable with an 80, too!

OK, How about we compromise with a "1 per person", cheap ass ~$35 Weller Special Reserve, that is locked up with the $1k scotch?
I submit to your peer pressure 🥃
 
2004 Land Cruiser w/163K miles and non-AHC.

Currently has:

+ New OEM TOYOTA shocks on all four corners
+ Factory torsion bars turned up
+ New Old Man Emu 865 springs in rear + 10mm trim packers on both sides

Sits like a stink bug.

Center of center caps to fender measurements are:

Front: 19.75”
Rear: 22.5”

Needs new driver’s side UBJ so I was thinking about springing for the SPC UCAs, new torsion bars, and an alignment. How much front end lift should I do and will I need a diff drop kit too? What other guidance can you provide?

Thanks in advance.

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Just curious as I'm looking at 2865's for my LC. How much lift did you gain the in the rear compared to sock?
 
You could re-index and “crank” your existing OE torsion bars, or you could replace your OE torsion bars with aftermarket torsion bars (OME/Sway-a-way/Ironman/Dobinsons/ToughDog/etc).

Front lift is really limited by how much “droop” you have left, and how tolerant you are of the bad behaviors caused by limited “droop”. Different torsion bars do not change this. Aftermarket torsion bars are thicker, meaning a higher spring rate, to support more weight than stock.

To figure out “how much can I lift it?”, measure full droop, subtract a minimum of 2” (I prefer at least 2.75”) from your droop measurement, that should give you an idea of the maximum lift you should attempt on your front end.

As examples, both my LXs measure 24.75” in front at full droop. My DD 06 is at 20.5” with 4.25” of droop. My extra vehicle 99 LX is at 21.5” with 3.25” of droop. My son’s 00 LC measures 23.75” at full droop, is at 21” and has 2.75” of droop.

I may give @JunkCrzr89 a heart attack as he and I are usually at odds about aftermarket UCAs here, but what do you expect to gain with the SPC UCAs on your vehicle?
Hi, I have a question about the droop. I have a 99 LC. I just installed Dobinsons 2-2.5” shocks up front, 2.5-3” shocks in back with the 440 constant load springs, Dobinsons torsion bars, and a TT diff drop. I have not installed my Dobinsons UCA because I ran out of daylight.

I set my droop to 2 inch because the instructions said 2.3 was the max. I’m looking like a stink bug because I have to weight in the back yet. Is it safe to go to 2.75” of droop, or will that sacrifice function off-road? Will my UVA’s affect the droop at all?

I want to be more level until I get weight put in the back of the truck (drawer system, steel bumper).
 
Hi, I have a question about the droop. I have a 99 LC. I just installed Dobinsons 2-2.5” shocks up front, 2.5-3” shocks in back with the 440 constant load springs, Dobinsons torsion bars, and a TT diff drop. I have not installed my Dobinsons UCA because I ran out of daylight.

I set my droop to 2 inch because the instructions said 2.3 was the max. I’m looking like a stink bug because I have to weight in the back yet. Is it safe to go to 2.75” of droop, or will that sacrifice function off-road? Will my UVA’s affect the droop at all?

I want to be more level until I get weight put in the back of the truck (drawer system, steel bumper).

In my experience, 2” (50mm) of droop is a minimum figure. More droop (less lift) is better.

Aftermarket UCAs would only help your droop if your OE UCAs are colliding with something, or your upper ball joints are binding.

What are you getting for a center of front hub to fender lip measurement at full droop?

What’s your rear center of hub to fender lip measurement (at rest) with those 440lb springs, without the 440lb?
 
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Hi, I have a question about the droop. I have a 99 LC. I just installed Dobinsons 2-2.5” shocks up front, 2.5-3” shocks in back with the 440 constant load springs, Dobinsons torsion bars, and a TT diff drop. I have not installed my Dobinsons UCA because I ran out of daylight.

I set my droop to 2 inch because the instructions said 2.3 was the max. I’m looking like a stink bug because I have to weight in the back yet. Is it safe to go to 2.75” of droop, or will that sacrifice function off-road? Will my UVA’s affect the droop at all?

I want to be more level until I get weight put in the back of the truck (drawer system, steel bumper).
You might have droop and lift mixed up. Jack up the front until the wheels come off the ground. Then measure the center of the wheel/hub to fender. Write that down. Subtract 2 inches and that is your maximum amount of lift in the front. If you subtract 2.75", your lift will be lower and you'll have more "stinkbug."
 
You might have droop and lift mixed up. Jack up the front until the wheels come off the ground. Then measure the center of the wheel/hub to fender. Write that down. Subtract 2 inches and that is your maximum amount of lift in the front. If you subtract 2.75", your lift will be lower and you'll have more "stinkbug."
Oh, you are right. I did that and got to 2 inches. So I guess I’m asking if I can make it less than 2 inches to create more lift without sacrificing performance? I don’t have my numbers with me but I believe I was 21.5 on the ground and 23.5 at full droop. What I really need to do is get more weight in the back. I believe my rake is about 2.5”
 
Oh, you are right. I did that and got to 2 inches. So I guess I’m asking if I can make it less than 2 inches to create more lift without sacrificing performance? I don’t have my numbers with me but I believe I was 21.5 on the ground and 23.5 at full droop. What I really need to do is get more weight in the back. I believe my rake is about 2.5”
2” of droop is minimum, and you can still get some “bad behaviors” with that much droop.

If you’ve got 2.5” of rake at 21.5” in front, that would put your rear at ~24”. @hoser is correct, your best choice is swapping rear coil springs to a lighter/lower coil, or add 440lb to the rear.

You said that you’re running Dobinsons 2-2.5” shocks in front?

The IMS, or the yellow twin tubes?

In either case, I believe the “extended” front shocks “require” the aftermarket UCA according to Dobinsons, and you might gain ~1.25” of droop with the UCA install, although mine are still happier at 21.5” or below.
 
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I decided to spring for the Ironman 4X4 Foam Cell Pro 2" Suspension Kit, Stage 2. It's scheduled to be here Friday. Still undecided if I'll get aftermarket UCAs or not, but I'm leaning in that direction.

In-between conference calls, I removed the OEM front shocks and ASFIR front skid plate. What are the specific hardware components I need to reattach the skid plate once the diff drop is in place?

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2” of droop is minimum, and you can still get some “bad behaviors” with that much droop.

If you’ve got 2.5” of rake at 21.5” in front, that would put your rear at ~24”. @hoser is correct, your best choice is swapping rear coil springs to a lighter/lower coil, or add 440lb to the rear.

You said that your running Dobinsons 2-2.5” shocks in front?

The IMS, or the yellow twin tubes?

In either case, I believe the “extended” front shocks “require” the aftermarket UCA according to Dobinsons, and you might gain ~1.25” of droop with the UCA install, although mine are still happier at 21.5” or below.
They are the IMS kit. I have the UCAs, just haven’t installed them. I haven’t driven anywhere though
 
They are the IMS kit. I have the UCAs, just haven’t installed them. I haven’t driven anywhere though

Your OE UCAs could be hitting the “fat” IMS shocks, and your upper ball joints could be binding. I’m seeing 24.75” at full droop, with the extended front IMS and aftermarket UCAs. (I wouldn’t drive yours as it sits)
 
OP here: I ordered Dobinsons UCAs from Exit Off-road. While the truck is in the air, I pulled the original UCAs. Not too bad after all. Repeated strikes with a BFH while applying pressure with a breaker bar did the trick.

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