Help me choose a Husky..

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splitshot

splitshot

Head cook, Bottle washer, and Peace keeper.
10 Year 15 Year
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Nov 17, 2006
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Rodent Central, Az
One of the contractors we supply just filed for bankruptcy (they owe us 5K). The boss and I went down to see if we could collect from the inventory they had on hand...

I grabbed two of the chain saws they had valued out at a reasonable price..Price contingent if they work or not, and if I can get them both running one of them is mine..:cool:

Both after filling with pre-mix fired up and ran excellent. Need some .02 on the better of the 2.

55 Rancher:
Plus: ready to roll, 20" bar and chain..No priming bubble.

455 Rancher:
Plus: feels like more torque/throttle response (may be due to no bar or chain).
Minus: Missing the side cover for the bar and chain.
Priming bubble, Ih8priming bubbles.

I was saving for a Stihl, but this is too good to pass up..
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455 rancher is a mid range saw, take a look but I think the 455 has a plastic crank case, not sure about the 55 but at least appearance wise it looks more like husky's XP line
 
Those aren't worth much dollar wise, especially compared to a 5K debt. Give him $50. each credit. New parts are gonna cost you some money to get that running.

I bought a used like new husky 61 with case for $100. Just to give you basis for comparison.
 
Weedhopper said:
Those aren't worth much dollar wise, especially compared to a 5K debt. Give him $50. each credit. New parts are gonna cost you some money to get that running.

I bought a used like new husky 61 with case for $100. Just to give you basis for comparison.
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let me know where I can find more like new 61's for $100. I'll buy a whole trailer full of them....
 
I know, I got lucky. How did I know the guy was on Heroin ??? I bought an almost new Ariens 24" snowblower from him for $500. Then I figured things out.

New chainsaws are not that expensive. My point was that buying parts can quickly come close to a new saw.
 
Weedhopper said:
Those aren't worth much dollar wise, especially compared to a 5K debt. Give him $50. each credit.
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That was the amount we came up with also. The only part I can see needed is a clutch side cover for the 455. Don't have a clue what one would run new, but found one for $10 on fleabay.
 
After some searching the 55 is the earlier model of the 455, the later was revamped to keep cost down, probably for the box store market. The 455 definatly doesn't run as smooth as the 55 (every pop of the cylinder is felt, even at mid to high range). Could be due to no bar/chain load? Also, the fuel mixture screws only have a minor effect. Some sugest grinding off the EPA tabs, but so far, I'm not impressed with either unit.
 
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WHAT, no canines? I want my click back!

:mumbles: thought DaBeagleMeister finally got his section. :sigh:


:D
 
RavenTai said:
455 rancher is a mid range saw, take a look but I think the 455 has a plastic crank case, not sure about the 55 but at least appearance wise it looks more like husky's XP line
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Yep, both are plastic, like I said I'm not impressed, these will be fed to the employees and see how long they last.

What kind of chain is this? (Not something I've seen before). Even though it looks like it has been recenty sharpened, it sucks in hardwood.
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dono it looks liek 3/8' chain but got funny bent over depth guides, if it is Oregon chain it should have a two digit number on the drive tooth that should get you in the right direction
 
splitshot said:
Yep, both are plastic, like I said I'm not impressed, these will be fed to the employees and see how long they last.

What kind of chain is this? (Not something I've seen before). Even though it looks like it has been recenty sharpened, it sucks in hardwood.
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Full comp? I've only seen it once. I typically run skip. Full comp is for cutting boards off an alaskan mill (so I've been told) much nicer finish. Skip tooth is what loggers run. It's rougher , but faster and bites deeper. Plus the sharpening on that chain sucks. See the guide mark on each tooth? Not to mention the rakers have been beat to s***.
 
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$50 for each saw is fair value and a fair market price.


The saw chain is Oregon "Vangard" series saw chain. Let the employees use it. It is Oregon Low Kick Back Saw Chain. After you sharpen it rasor sharp, you still have to force it through the wood.


Bigndn lives in logging country. I would advise you to listen to him if you lived in Winslow or Flagstaff but since you live in the desert and will be cutting railroad ties and mesquite more than anything, keep the full comp "safety" chain on the saws for the employees.
 
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D'Animal said:
$50 for each saw is fair value and a fair market price.


The saw chain is Oregon "Vangard" series saw chain. Let the employees use it. It is Oregon Low Kick Back Saw Chain. After you sharpen it rasor sharp, you still have to force it through the wood.


Bigndn lives in logging country. I would advise you to listen to him if you lived in Windlow or Flagstaff but since you live in the desert and will be cutting railroad ties and mesquite more than anything, keep the full comp "safety" chain on the saws for the employees.
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Good advice, I think these guys thought on the same line, but most of these only look like they were used just once.

This is what I picked up on Friday.
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This is about a 12" section of what it looks like new.
How do I file down the guide when the cutter gets below it? Or is it even worth messin' with.
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On a brighter note, I did end up with these..:cool:
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And a roll of this. (Another low kickback style, but after making up a couple, not anywhere near a skip, but a better cutter than the Vanguard).
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D'Animal said:
I can see them now.

Great Score!

What type of file guide are you using? Is it the 8" flat plate with the file in it?
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Nope, I've been using the Dremel chainsaver with the proper sized stones for years for the cutters. As far as a guide file, just a standard 1/2" fine has worked, but never had to mess with bent over guides.
If you have better ideas, set me up, I'm all ears..:)
 
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